Evening Sends – 5 Minute Fingers

Here at TrainingBeta, we get asked a lot, "What's the best hangboard workout?"  Our answer, though, probably isn't what most people are looking for.  Sure, different hangboard protocols have different benefits and drawbacks, but, ultimately, the "best hangboard workout" is the [...]

By | 2017-11-16T17:53:49+00:00 November 13th, 2017|0 Comments

ClimbFlow: Leg Strength and Mobility Video

With most climbing training, whether we are hangboarding, campusing, or working out on the rings, we focus almost exclusively on the upper body.  While these types of training are definitely valuable as they are climbing specific, completely neglecting your lower [...]

By | 2017-11-08T09:29:39+00:00 November 8th, 2017|0 Comments

Bouldering Training: Free Volume Workout

A new trend in training for bouldering is to put all the focus on doing the hardest possible moves.  While limit bouldering sessions are certainly important for building power, they do not allow you to do a larger volume of [...]

By | 2017-11-04T12:03:18+00:00 November 4th, 2017|0 Comments

FrictionLabs: Intro to Campus Board Training

Things like the campus board, the fingerboard, and systems walls are training tools.  As with all tools, they only work if they are used properly. To help you learn exactly what the campus board is and how to use it [...]

By | 2017-10-02T12:30:40+00:00 October 1st, 2017|0 Comments

Bouldering Training: Free Recovery Workout

A huge part of successfully training for climbing is discipline.  Most of the time we think about that as the discipline to head into the gym and consistently try our hardest.  While this is obviously the most important part of [...]

By | 2017-09-26T12:15:39+00:00 September 24th, 2017|0 Comments

Climb Strong: Variations on Integrated Strength

When most of us think about training strength for climbing, the first thing that comes to mind is hangboarding for finger strength.  But what about core strength? What about shoulder stability? How about pulling power? And don't forget about training [...]

By | 2017-09-22T12:53:30+00:00 September 22nd, 2017|0 Comments

Beginner Campus Board Session Video

For beginner climbers, it can be really tempting to rush into more advanced training techniques.  Adding things like a campus board session to the end of your workout can seem like the path to climbings upper levels.  We cannot stress [...]

By | 2017-09-18T06:34:57+00:00 September 12th, 2017|1 Comment

Top 5 Endurance Training Articles

Climbing long routes requires endurance.  When most climbers hear endurance training, all they think of is cranking out lap after lap on routes in the gym until their forearms give out. However, this kind of endurance training is not only [...]

By | 2017-09-18T06:34:58+00:00 September 10th, 2017|0 Comments