Climbing Meta – Foam Rolling for Climbers

Hard climbing and training put a ton of strain on our bodies.  It's why, even though we may not want to take them, we all need rest days.  The thing with rest days is that we don't just have to [...]

By | 2017-09-18T06:35:10+00:00 August 30th, 2017|0 Comments

Transcript Highlight: Bill Ramsey on Age and Climbing

Bill Ramsey is a legendary climber having established 5.14 routes and climbed 5.14b at the age of 54.  If you know Bill, you also know how manically devoted he is to his training.  Bill has developed his own training philosophy [...]

By | 2017-09-18T06:35:29+00:00 August 5th, 2017|0 Comments

Steve Bechtel: Power vs Strength

In his most recent TrainingBeta Podcast, climbing trainer and coach Steve Bechtel talks extensively about how to design your own training program.  Ultimately, a lot of his and Neely's discussion revolves around how using a nonlinear periodization model is a great [...]

By | 2017-09-18T06:36:08+00:00 June 23rd, 2017|0 Comments

Finger Strength: Free Beginner Hangboard Workout

When it comes to the physical side of training for climbing, the most important thing to focus on is training finger strength.  Not only is it central to improving performance, but it also takes the longest to develop so consistently working [...]

By | 2017-09-18T06:36:12+00:00 June 19th, 2017|0 Comments

FrictionLabs: Getting Started on the Moon Board

Our friends at FrictionLabs recently published an article outlining what the Moon Board is and how to use it properly.  With the Moon Board, a standardized bouldering training wall created by legendary British climber Ben Moon,  rapidly increasing in popularity [...]

By | 2017-09-18T06:36:33+00:00 May 27th, 2017|0 Comments

Jonathan Siegrist on Skin Care

Today we are going to try something a little different.  Here at TrainingBeta, we've been talking about how the podcasts are full of so much valuable information from some of the top climbers, trainers, and coaches out there. We know [...]

By | 2017-09-18T06:37:24+00:00 March 31st, 2017|0 Comments

Evening Sends: Shauna Coxsey and Leah Crane

On a fundamental level climbing is a selfish sport.  This is why it was extremely refreshing to read the newest Evening Sends article by Andrew Bisharat highlighting the training partnership between Shauna Coxsey and Leah Crane. Shauna and Leah are British [...]

By | 2017-09-18T06:37:37+00:00 March 4th, 2017|0 Comments