Steve Bechtel: Power vs Strength

In his most recent TrainingBeta Podcast, climbing trainer and coach Steve Bechtel talks extensively about how to design your own training program.  Ultimately, a lot of his and Neely's discussion revolves around how using a nonlinear periodization model is a great [...]

By | June 23rd, 2017|0 Comments

Finger Strength: Free Beginner Hangboard Workout

When it comes to the physical side of training for climbing, the most important thing to focus on is training finger strength.  Not only is it central to improving performance, but it also takes the longest to develop so consistently working [...]

By | June 19th, 2017|0 Comments

FrictionLabs: Getting Started on the Moon Board

Our friends at FrictionLabs recently published an article outlining what the Moon Board is and how to use it properly.  With the Moon Board, a standardized bouldering training wall created by legendary British climber Ben Moon,  rapidly increasing in popularity [...]

By | May 27th, 2017|0 Comments

Jonathan Siegrist on Skin Care

Today we are going to try something a little different.  Here at TrainingBeta, we've been talking about how the podcasts are full of so much valuable information from some of the top climbers, trainers, and coaches out there. We know [...]

By | March 31st, 2017|0 Comments

Evening Sends: Shauna Coxsey and Leah Crane

On a fundamental level climbing is a selfish sport.  This is why it was extremely refreshing to read the newest Evening Sends article by Andrew Bisharat highlighting the training partnership between Shauna Coxsey and Leah Crane. Shauna and Leah are British [...]

By | March 4th, 2017|0 Comments

Teal Dreher – 2017 Training Plan

Unless you are lucky enough to live somewhere with year round outdoor climbing, then there is probably a good chunk of the year when it is either too hot, too cold, or too wet to get out to your local [...]

By | January 21st, 2017|0 Comments

Eric Hörst – 4 Fingerboard Strength Protocols

It is no secret that having strong fingers is important for climbing difficult routes and boulders.  Additionally, research has now shown that for experienced climbers fingerboards are the most effective tool for producing finger strength gains.  However, as with any [...]

By | October 23rd, 2016|0 Comments

Steve Hong on Climbing Skin Care

No matter how strong you get, your skin will always be one of the limiting factors for how much you can climb and how many quality goes you can have on your project.  While there is nothing that can be [...]

By | September 6th, 2016|0 Comments