Training for Climbing: Windshield Wipers Core Exercise

There's no such thing as too much core strength in climbing.  Having a strong core allows us to keep our hips into the wall, transfer weight through our feet on steep terrain, hold swings, and general move efficiently on rock.  [...]

By | 2017-11-17T15:42:12+00:00 November 17th, 2017|0 Comments

Transcript Highlight: Charlie Manganiello on Gaining vs Maintaining Strength

A common trap climbers fall into is thinking that the training you are doing today is going to help you send your project tomorrow.  The unfortunate reality is that it takes time for us to really make gains through training.  [...]

By | 2017-11-17T13:40:15+00:00 November 17th, 2017|0 Comments

Rock and Ice: Women’s Guide to Building Power

Power can be a hard thing to train for climbers of any gender.  However, while there are plenty of super powerful female climbers out there, women typically find building power more difficult than males. To help any women (or anyone [...]

By | 2017-10-30T12:27:08+00:00 October 30th, 2017|0 Comments

Climbing Meta – Foam Rolling for Climbers

Hard climbing and training put a ton of strain on our bodies.  It's why, even though we may not want to take them, we all need rest days.  The thing with rest days is that we don't just have to [...]

By | 2017-09-18T06:35:10+00:00 August 30th, 2017|0 Comments

Transcript Highlight: Bill Ramsey on Age and Climbing

Bill Ramsey is a legendary climber having established 5.14 routes and climbed 5.14b at the age of 54.  If you know Bill, you also know how manically devoted he is to his training.  Bill has developed his own training philosophy [...]

By | 2017-09-18T06:35:29+00:00 August 5th, 2017|0 Comments

Steve Bechtel: Power vs Strength

In his most recent TrainingBeta Podcast, climbing trainer and coach Steve Bechtel talks extensively about how to design your own training program.  Ultimately, a lot of his and Neely's discussion revolves around how using a nonlinear periodization model is a great [...]

By | 2017-09-18T06:36:08+00:00 June 23rd, 2017|0 Comments

Finger Strength: Free Beginner Hangboard Workout

When it comes to the physical side of training for climbing, the most important thing to focus on is training finger strength.  Not only is it central to improving performance, but it also takes the longest to develop so consistently working [...]

By | 2017-09-18T06:36:12+00:00 June 19th, 2017|0 Comments

FrictionLabs: Getting Started on the Moon Board

Our friends at FrictionLabs recently published an article outlining what the Moon Board is and how to use it properly.  With the Moon Board, a standardized bouldering training wall created by legendary British climber Ben Moon,  rapidly increasing in popularity [...]

By | 2017-09-18T06:36:33+00:00 May 27th, 2017|0 Comments