This article was written by Kris Hampton and reposted from his site Kris Hampton is our friend and author of our 8-week Endurance Training Program (have you tried it out? It’s great if you’re looking to send longer routes!).

Kris talks about recovering while climbing, and […]

By |July 28th, 2015|Categories: Coaching Tips|Tags: |0 Comments

Go Medium: Training in the 70% to 80% Work Load Range

When you go to the gym do you spend your entire session trying routes or problems right at your limit?  Steve Bechtel of Climb Strong and author of our Strength Training Guide posted an article that describes how with elite athletes […]

By |July 26th, 2015|Categories: Coaching Tips, Training Tips, Workouts|Tags: |0 Comments

Time Management: Maximum Sending, Minimum Time

Do you feel like “real life” is cutting into your training time and interfering with your climbing goals?  Luckily, with enough discipline and good time management even people with the busiest and most hectic lives can carve out enough […]

By |July 25th, 2015|Categories: Coaching Tips, Training Tips|Tags: |0 Comments

Dave MacLeod Campus Training through Injury

Dave MacLeod recently underwent surgery on his ankle and has steadily been working his way back into climbing.  Dave recently posted a write up on his blog about his campus training through injury and how he has managed to make […]

By |July 24th, 2015|Categories: Uncategorized|Tags: |0 Comments

Easy-To-Make Pinch Strength Trainer

Here at Training Beta we are pretty big fans of training finger strength and spend plenty of time on hangboards.  However, we are always looking for new devices and ways to train. TrainingBeta reader and Morgan May got in […]

By |July 23rd, 2015|Categories: Bouldering Strength And Power, New Products, Training Tips|Tags: |2 Comments

Free Finger Strength Workout

Finger strength is possibly the most important aspect of training for climbing, whether you’re gaining it by climbing or fingerboarding. It all adds up to being able to hold onto smaller holds for longer, which means you can climb harder […]

By |July 21st, 2015|Categories: Training Tips, Workouts|Tags: |0 Comments

The “10-4 Rule” – A Guide Line for Projecting

How long do you work on your project? A couple of attempts? Days? Weeks? Seasons?  Climbing trainer Eric Hörst posted an article on his site that addresses the question of how much time you should spend projecting and whether or not […]

By |July 19th, 2015|Categories: Coaching Tips|Tags: |0 Comments

Marijuana and Climbing

Here at Training Beta, we recently conducted a survey about marijuana and climbing.  We were specifically interested in the climbing community’s thoughts about marijuana’s effects on climbing performance and about the presence of marijuana at climbing areas in general. […]

By |July 17th, 2015|Categories: Surveys|Tags: |1 Comment