Tension Climbing: Training with Bouldering Circuits

When the boys at Tension Climbing talk, we should all listen... Today, we have an article they wrote about how bouldering circuits can be used to train strength/power, strength/power endurance, and even endurance. "Training with [...]

By | May 29th, 2017|

FrictionLabs: Getting Started on the Moon Board

Our friends at FrictionLabs recently published an article outlining what the Moon Board is and how to use it properly.  With the Moon Board, a standardized bouldering training wall created by legendary British climber Ben [...]

By | May 27th, 2017|

Evening Sends: Climbing Mobility with Kelly Starrett

With all the talk in the training community about injury prevention, it can seem like overuse injuries are the inevitable outcome of hard climbing and training.  However, this attitude is missing the most important part [...]

By | May 24th, 2017|

Route Setting to Prevent Injury with Chris Danielson

When it comes to climbing and especially to training, climbers are spending more and more of their time climbing in indoor gyms.  While gyms are the perfect place to hone your skills, there are some [...]

By | May 19th, 2017|

Top 5 TrainingBeta Podcasts

Neely has been putting out TrainingBeta Podcasts now for years and they are full of all kinds of amazing training information from some of the top climbers and trainers out there.  She is even up [...]

By | May 19th, 2017|

Transcript Highlight: Margarita Martinez on Training Endurance

Training endurance seems pretty simple.  Just climb until you are pumped silly and repeat right? While this approach can definitely work, how can you be sure you are actually reaching your maximum pump level?  Did [...]

By | May 17th, 2017|

Dr. Jared Vagy: Using a Luggage Scale to Quantify Strength

If you have ever been injured, you know that one of the most frustrating parts is not knowing if you are gaining strength and progressing in your recovery.  The reason for this is that it [...]

By | May 13th, 2017|

Mark Anderson – 40 Climbing Lessons

Training guru and author of the Rock Climbers Training Manual Mark Anderson recently turned 40 (happy birthday from TrainingBeta!).  To celebrate, Mark wrote a blog post in which he outlined 40 climbing lessons he's learned [...]

By | May 11th, 2017|