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The Project Magazine – Malcolm Smith Interview

Training for climbing may seem like the hot new thing right now.  However, while training may be more popular than ever, there have been people systematically training with incredible amounts of discipline for decades.  While [...]

By | March 29th, 2017|

Gnarly Nutrition: Why Climbers Should be Using BCAAs

Take a look at the general fitness world.  The athletes participating in these activities (whether they are crossfit, weightlifting, or endurance sports) all use dietary supplements to help increase their performance and speed up their [...]

By | March 28th, 2017|

Transitioning from Bouldering to Sport Climbing: 5.9 to 5.14

It's Neely here, and today I have the distinct privilege of introducing TrainingBeta's content manager, Matt Pincus, as our featured author of this article. Matt is a psyched and accomplished climber, and he's put a [...]

By | March 22nd, 2017|

Rock and Ice – Margo Hayes on Sending La Rambla 5.15a

On February 26th, Margo Hayes successfully reappointed the route La Rambla in Siurana, Spain.  This ascent was historic in that it marked the first ascent by a woman of a confirmed 5.15a/9a+ route.  While TrainingBeta is [...]

By | March 21st, 2017|

Splitter Choss: Training With a Finger Injury

If you climb long enough, you're going to at least tweak a finger.  For most climbers, when we injure a finger the immediate reaction is to think we need to take some time off climbing [...]

By | March 17th, 2017|

Maxi-Pull: How to Build Your Own

If you listened to the TrainingBeta Podcast with Margarita Martinez, she talked about her favorite training tool: the Maxi-Pull.  Essentially, the Maxi-Pull is a sloper hangboard that, because it is comfortable and relatively friendly in [...]

By | March 15th, 2017|

Climbing Meta – Training Tracker

One of the most important parts of training is effectively tracking your progress.  Doing so ensures that you are able to progressively increase the difficulty of your training as you improve.  Progressively increasing the intensity [...]

By | March 14th, 2017|

Evening Sends: Shauna Coxsey and Leah Crane

On a fundamental level climbing is a selfish sport.  This is why it was extremely refreshing to read the newest Evening Sends article by Andrew Bisharat highlighting the training partnership between Shauna Coxsey and Leah Crane. [...]

By | March 4th, 2017|