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TrainingBeta Blog2021-07-05T15:28:11-06:00

What to Invest in for Climbing Training: Matt Pincus

Recently, I wrote to the TrainingBeta email subscribers about how I was changing up my training for the winter and how switching back to bouldering for a bit during the late fall had reinvigorated my psyche after a disappointing fall sport climbing season. I wrote that piece while I was [...]

How to Sleep Better So You Can Climb Better

In my nutrition sessions with climbers, I ask a lot of very personal questions: when do you eat, when do you poop every day, DO you poop every day, how much do you sleep? Through all of this questioning, I've discovered that most people I work with have trouble sleeping [...]

3 Ways to Stay Sane When You’re Injured and Can’t Climb

Most climbers get injured at some point, and most climbers go through some mental and emotional turmoil when that happens. We lament the fact that we somehow did this to ourselves and that our bodies aren't strong enough to withstand difficult things. Then we wonder what in the WORLD we're [...]

How to Get Your Joy Back in Climbing by Neely Quinn, CPC

I've been hearing from a lot of climbers lately that they're not happy with their climbing. They've lost the joy they used to experience when they first started and they don't know how to get it back. They think they "should" be climbing harder grades, with less fear, and more [...]

The Key Thing That’s Been Missing from My Training All Along

I was talking with Alex Stiger about my climbing goals and training plans this year and she said something that keeps echoing in my mind that I wanted to share with you: "When you train, you kind of go crazy with it and do all the things, and then by [...]

How to Deal with Pre-Send or Mid-Send Nerves

Earlier this summer I was at this route I'd been trying for a few days - a 13a (7c+) called Uncle Dad in the Flatirons in Boulder. I knew I was close to sending, but I was just really uncomfortable, physically and emotionally. My heartrate was faster than normal, I [...]

How Alex Stiger Sent Her First 5.14a

I overheard a woman in Rifle a couple weeks ago say, “if it takes longer than 3 years it doesn’t count anyway.” I immediately thought that was a weird thing to say and now that I have SENT my 4+ year project I can confidently say I do not agree. [...]

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