TrainingBeta Blog 2018-03-22T15:07:26+00:00

Beast Fingers: Optimizing Muscular Strength-to-Weight Ratios in Rock Climbing

This past summer we shared a study our friends at Beast Fingers were doing on strength-to-weight ratios in rock climbing and asked you to help them out and participate. Well, the Beast Fingers team has completed their study and made their results available to the public. As we said in [...]

April 24th, 2018|

Transcript Highlight: Kyra Condie Describes Her Campus Routine

You've probably seen videos of Kyra Condie campusing somewhere on social media, right? Well, we did an interview with her on the podcast, and in this transcript excerpt she describes exactly what she does during her campus board workouts. It's pretty amazing honestly. Please be aware that she's spent years [...]

April 17th, 2018|

Gnarly Nutrition Product Review

Athletes in almost all major sports use supplements to help them meet their nutritional needs. However, many climbers look at supplements with skepticism. We worry that supplements will either make us bulk up like bodybuilders or that they are simply a waste of money. Having a healthy amount of skepticism when [...]

April 11th, 2018|

The Project Magazine: Joe Kinder Profile

Joe Kinder is a climber who needs no introduction. He has a been a top climber for decades. He has repeated hard sport routes and has developed routes in numerous areas around the world. Additionally, with Jonathan Siegrist's recent ascent of his route Bone Tomahawk confirming the grade at 5.15a, [...]

April 10th, 2018|

The Climbing Doctor: Low Back Pain and Climbing

Low back pain can be extremely debilitating and effects a large portion of the population. While low back pain is extremely common in the entire population, it also affects climbers as many of our repetitive movement patterns can quickly lead to its development. To help anyone struggling with low back pain, [...]

April 8th, 2018|

Top 5 Projecting Articles

Whether you're a sport climber, a boulder, or a trad climber, climbing your hardest is going to require projecting. Although projecting looks a little different on routes and boulders, the most important thing to remember is that it's both a mental and physical process. Additionally, projecting is something that we [...]

April 3rd, 2018|

Rock and Ice: Recovery Nutrition

Rock and Ice has been running a three-part series on climbing nutrition. Installment one was all about crag snacks we can use for quick energy. Part two covered eating for all-day energy. Today, we have the third installment in the series which is all about recovery nutrition. The article is by sports [...]

April 2nd, 2018|

Climb Strong: Understanding Training Notation

We are getting better and better at training for climbing. For climbers looking to improve through systematic training, there are lots of resources available and more and more coaches writing quality training programs. However, if you are going to benefit from a training program you definitely need to be able [...]

March 30th, 2018|

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