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TrainingBeta Blog2018-03-22T15:07:26+00:00

Matt Pincus: Projecting Principles

Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson spent seven years working on the Dawn Wall. Chris Sharma needed a multi-season campaign to send Jumbo Love. Nalle Hukkataival spent more than 80 sessions over four years to climb Burden of Dreams V17. Climbing is full of these epic projecting stories and they don't [...]

October 1st, 2019|

Transcript Highlight: Dr. Chris Heilman on Starting with the Breath

Most top climbers agree that their mindset is one of the most important factors influencing their performance. Whether they are sport climbers, boulders, or comp climbers, these athletes agree that they can't put forth their best efforts unless they have put themselves into the correct mental state first. That sounds [...]

September 12th, 2019|

Dan Mirsky: How I Trained for Fat Camp

Dan Mirsky is one of the most passionate and driven climbers I know. When it comes to putting his head down and working his projects, Dan is as dedicated as they come. Dan is also calculated and driven with his training. If he thinks something is going to improve his [...]

September 4th, 2019|

The Knowledge Quest with Sam Elias and Esther Smith

Climbing injuries happen. While we can be proactive with our prevention and follow a well-designed training program, if you climb long enough, you're going to deal with an injury. Whether it's a shoulder, elbow, or finger injury, you're going to be confronted with an injury of some kind. What's most [...]

August 29th, 2019|

Dr. Tyler Nelson: The “Simplest” Finger Training Program

The idea that finger strength is an important factor in climbing performance is a well-established fact. As a community, we've also accepted certain assumptions about training finger strength, including that hanging from a hangboard is the most effective way to improve finger strength. While I won't argue that the hangboard [...]

August 15th, 2019|

John Kettle: 6 Ways to Lengthen Your Reach

Not long ago we published an article by Neely about how she trains to compensate for being short. The response was great and it clearly seems like a topic many people are interested in and need help with. Today, we have another article about training to climb taller than you [...]

August 6th, 2019|

Drugs, Alcohol, and Climbing Survey: Help A Professor with His Research

UPDATE: This survey is not available anymore as they are moving on the next phase of their research. We will update you when the results are in.  A while back we conducted a survey about marijuana usage among climbers and whether or not people consider it a performance enhanching drug. [...]

August 5th, 2019|

Transcript Highlight: Jonathan Siegrist on Trying Hard

Jonathan Siegrist is a badass. His resume of hard routes speaks for itself and, with several 9b/5.15b sends under his belt, he's in an exclusive club of the world's best rock climbers. For the rest of us, when you see that a climber of Jonathan's ability has sent another hard [...]

July 25th, 2019|

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