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TrainingBeta Blog2018-03-22T15:07:26+00:00

Alex Stiger: 3 Ways to Develop Your Strongest Core

The following article was written by Alex Stiger, a Certified Personal Trainer, Sports Performance Coach, and Head Coach at Movement Climbing + Fitness in Boulder Colorado. In the text below, Alex summarizes her experience pursuing a stronger core. Once she realized that endurance core workouts weren't helping enhance her climbing performance, [...]

October 27th, 2020|

Transcript Highlight Episode 140: Mercedes Pollmeier on Generating Tension

For those of you who would rather read than listen, today we have an excerpt from the transcript of the TrainingBeta Podcast Episode 140: Mercedes Pollmeier on Mobility and Technique Drills. You can find the entire transcript and audio on the episode page. In the interview, Neely talks to Mercedes [...]

October 5th, 2020|

My Experience Training with a Personal Climbing Coach

The following article was written by Shaina Savoy,  a climber and nutrition student living in Las Vegas, Nevada. Training. Have you heard of it? The year 2019 was a fruitful climbing year for me. I sent two of my hardest routes: A reputably hard 5.13b at the Wailing Wall called [...]

September 8th, 2020|

Dr. Tyler Nelson: High Volume Power Training for Climbers

This article was written by Dr. Tyler Nelson, a sports scientist and climber who owns Camp 4 Human Performance, a chiropractic sports medicine clinic and strength and conditioning business in Salt Lake City. Work with Dr. Tyler Nelson If you'd like to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for [...]

September 2nd, 2020|

Nate Pierce: A Climber’s Pursuit of a Positive Relationship with Food

ANNOUNCEMENT! I recently created a program all about Nutrition for Climbers. It's a month-long program led by me, Neely Quinn, ICNT to help you gain energy, lean out in a healthy way, fuel and recover properly from exercise, and have a better relationship with food. Sign-ups end this Thursday, [...]

August 24th, 2020|

Transcript Highlight Episode 137: Kris Hampton on Learning New Movements

For those of you who would rather read than listen, today we have an excerpt from the transcript of the TrainingBeta Podcast Episode 137: Kris Hampton on 6 Movement Drills to Improve Your Climbing. You can find the entire transcript and audio on the episode page. In the interview, Neely [...]

June 30th, 2020|

4 Ways to Make Your Bouldering Sessions More Deliberate

ANNOUNCEMENT: Matt Pincus is now offering online classes about how to make the most of your bouldering sessions. Whether you are training on a home wall or patiently waiting for the gyms to reopen, this class will teach you all you need to know to have an effective bouldering [...]

June 22nd, 2020|

Transcript Highlight Episode 138: Marina Inoue on Being Short

For those of you who would rather read than listen, today we have an excerpt from the transcript of the TrainingBeta Podcast Episode 138: Marina Inoue on Short Person Training and Body Image Issues. You can find the entire transcript and audio on the episode page. In the interview, Neely [...]

June 15th, 2020|

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