Muscular Endurance Training by Dr. Tyler Nelson
One of the more challenging things to accurately measure for endurance adaptations is climbing itself. The diversity of handholds, move distance, wall angle, time under tension, and a climber's morphology change the intensity of each move, making it difficult to measure muscular capacity. To remedy this, research has used a [...]
Why I Don’t Toss Wobblers Anymore: 2 Tips for You
If you would rather listen to this article than read it, here is the audio version: It was 2019 and I was on my 9th attempt on Super Tuscan, a 5.13b at Seal Rock in the Flatirons of Boulder. I'd made it through the bottom bouldery crux all the way [...]
I Could Climb Harder… If I Were A Different Person
Have you ever thought to yourself... If I was more motivated to train, I could climb harder... or If I wasn't ever injured... or If I could climb outside more... or If I had a different job and wasn't so busy... or If my kids didn't take up so much [...]
Quality, Not Quantity?
I love climbing, I love training, and I love trying hard. If you are anything like me, you probably feel the same way and want to do as much climbing as possible. Unfortunately, actually improving at climbing is not just about doing more. It’s about finding the right balance between [...]
How to Actually Process Difficult Emotions
I won't lie - I've been in a mild depressive state for the past few weeks and it's been difficult. My inclination is to retreat when I feel this way. However, I feel like it's my duty as a public figure and a mindset coach to talk openly about these [...]
An Alternative to Sending
Alex here, and today I am going to share a new concept I've been using that has been super helpful for me while getting on new climbs outside, choosing projects, and just deciding what to spend time on in the gym. I have been calling this concept "Buying In." My [...]
Developing Climbing Skills Beyond Drills
Hi Everyone, Coach Matt Pincus here. As a coach, I work with climbers who want clear guidance about exactly what to do in all of their indoor and outdoor sessions in order to reach their goals and get BETTER at climbing. One of the biggest questions I encounter in my [...]
Plant-Based Nutrition Basics for Climbers
The use of the term “plant-based” diet has been incredibly popular and trendy, especially in recent years. However, “plant-based” has no explicit definition. The term can be used to describe anything from vegan to semi-vegetarian—meaning a diet may include limited amounts of animals foods including fish, dairy, and meat. For [...]
3 Tips to Decrease Performance Anxiety
This coming Monday the 20th, I'll be hosting a group mindset coaching session where I'll help you decrease performance anxiety in climbing. Here are the details: Performance Anxiety Workshop It'll be a live call on Zoom for about 75 minutes. In the first 15 minutes I'll talk about the common [...]
How to Feel Less Resentful about Being a Short Climber
I'll just come out and say it: being a short climber can be very frustrating. As a 5'0" climber with a negative 1" ape index, I regularly watch people skip through my crux moves and easily reach holds that are full lock-offs for me. Witnessing this kind of thing can [...]