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TrainingBeta Blog 2018-03-22T15:07:26+00:00

Paige Claassen: How I Trained for Algorithm 5.14d

Paige Claassen is a badass. Period. Having now climbed up to 5.14d/9a sport routes, what can the rest of us really learn from Paige and how she trained to climb her first 5.14d, Algorithm? The answer is A LOT. Today in the next installment of the "How I Trained For" [...]

November 13th, 2018|

Sam Elias: Level Up Your Mental Game – 6 Books

It's easy to say a lot of climbing is mental. However, improving your mental game isn't as easy or straightforward. Just like training your fingers or improving your technique, improving your mental game takes deliberate and consistent hard work. What follows is a review of 6 books that professional climber [...]

October 18th, 2018|

Alex Stiger: How I Trained for Tomb Raider 5.13d

Our main goal with the How I Trained For series is to showcase how actual climbers trained to complete their goals. Everyone has different strengths and weaknesses. This means everyone has different training needs, and successful training programs reflect these individual concerns. Additionally, goal routes or boulders require a wide range of skills, [...]

October 4th, 2018|

Quantifying Isometrics Part 2: Program Auto-Regulation and Its Implications on Finger Training

A few months back, Dr. Tyler Nelson, a sports scientist and climber who owns a chiropractic sports medicine clinic and strength and conditioning business in Salt Lake City, wrote an article that covered the use of isometrics in training for climbing. This first article, Preparing to Try Hard Part I: Isometric [...]

September 12th, 2018|

Brian Suntay: How I Trained for a Successful Sport Climbing Season

Training programs may look great on paper, but people seldom follow them exactly. Instead, their training changes to reflect their schedule, goals, and life commitments. That's why we're starting a series here at TrainingBeta where real climbers share how they actually trained, why they did what they did, and what kind [...]

August 21st, 2018|

Performance Climbing Coach Seminar with Steve Bechtel, Neely Quinn, etc

If you take your climbing training seriously (or your clients') and you feel like you just can't get enough information about it by reading and watching videos, then it might be time for you to invest in more hands-on learning. Steve Bechtel created the Performance Climbing Coach Seminar, a 2-day [...]

August 9th, 2018|

Climb Strong: Foundation Strength

We all know that getting stronger is an important part of improving climbing performance. However, many periodized programs give us the idea that we should only work on strength during certain blocks of our training. According to Steve Bechtel of Climb Strong, this isn't the best approach. Instead, he advocates [...]

August 9th, 2018|

Moon Climbing: 6 Shoulder Stability Exercises

Because of the increase in shoulder injuries, climbers are really concerned with shoulder injury prevention. To give you some ideas about how to incorporate shoulder stability work into your training, here's an article from Moon Climbing where British climber Olivia Ratcliffe outlines six shoulder stability exercises. While the concern about [...]

August 7th, 2018|

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