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TrainingBeta Blog2018-03-22T15:07:26+00:00

Transcript Highlight: Steve Bechtel on New Endurance Training Methods

You're above your bolt gunning for the chains on your project. But wait! Your forearms are getting pumped, your elbows start to chicken wing, you start to panic, and before you know it your hanging from the end of your rope. No send this time.  We all know the feeling, [...]

April 17th, 2019|

Marina Inoue: How I Trained for Dark Age V11

With training, it's easy to think that more is always the answer - more exercises, more sessions, and more training tools. The reality though is that just "more" is seldom the way forward. Well thought-out training plans don't necessarily require complex periodization schemes or months away from outdoor climbing. Instead, they [...]

March 28th, 2019|

Transcript Highlight: Dr. Jared Vagy on The Frequency of Injury Prevention Exercises

Injuries suck. Not only do they prevent us from climbing in the short term, but they de-rail long term progress by forcing us to spend seasons on the couch rather than at the crag becoming better and stronger climbers. It's no surprise then that if you look anywhere within the [...]

March 21st, 2019|

Brannon Frank: Max Isometrics and Their Application for Youth Coaches

The use of isometrics in climbing training is growing. While they've been common practice in finger strength training for a long time (think hangboarding), the use of max isometrics in a variety of strength training modalities is becoming more diverse and widespread. While they might seem like they are only [...]

March 14th, 2019|

Kuba Lacina Video: 20-Minute Overall Fitness Workout

Kuba Lacina made an entertaining video showing you how to do the 20-minute overall fitness workout that Kris Peters outlined in our podcast about how to train overall fitness for rock climbing. In the interview, Kris says, "We need to be ok with suffering, feeling terrible, and being able to [...]

March 4th, 2019|

Danny Robertson: How I Train for Limit Sport Climbs

Projecting limit sport climbs is a process. It's a process with lots of pitfalls along the way. Many climbers sabotage themselves both on the route and in their preparation beforehand, but ultimately, there's an art to projecting. We've done our best to outline the process before, but there's no substitute for going [...]

February 21st, 2019|

Transcript Highlight: Lattice Training on the Perfect 1-Hour Session

Climbing training takes time. Unfortunately, most of us have schedules that are anything but full of extra time we can devote to our training. However, being low on time doesn't mean you can't have quality training sessions and progress your climbing. There are no shortcuts, but if you are smart [...]

February 13th, 2019|

Brianna Greene: How I Trained for My First 5.12

Climbing our first 5.12 is a big deal to a lot of us. At that level, it's easy to get sucked into believing that sessions on the hangboard, bouldering for power, and lifting weights will get you past that 5.11 barrier. But the truth is there's a lot more to [...]

January 10th, 2019|

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