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TrainingBeta Blog2018-03-22T15:07:26+00:00

Transcript Highlight: Josh Larson on Training Team USA for the Olympics

Climbing has made it to the Olympics in 2020. While this fact isn't exactly breaking news, what is new and exciting is that Kyra Condie and Nathaniel Coleman have punched their tickets to Toyko after impressive performances at the qualifying event in Toulouse, France. This means they will be joining [...]

December 11th, 2019|

Matt Pincus: 6 Reasons Your Training Isn’t Working

When I first started coaching climbers, I thought it would be all about the nuts and bolts of training program design. I really thought that most of what I was going to be doing was guiding climbers through the details of hangboard protocols, exercise selection, and set/rep schemes. I definitely [...]

November 26th, 2019|

James Lucas: How I Trained for Midnight Lightning

Maybe you've heard of James Lucas through his writing for Climbing Magazine. However, if you'd heard of James Lucas before that, chances are you know of him as a dirtbag climber. That's because James did spend a better part of a decade living out of his car, working odd jobs, and [...]

October 24th, 2019|

Matt Pincus: Projecting Principles

Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson spent seven years working on the Dawn Wall. Chris Sharma needed a multi-season campaign to send Jumbo Love. Nalle Hukkataival spent more than 80 sessions over four years to climb Burden of Dreams V17. Climbing is full of these epic projecting stories and they don't [...]

October 1st, 2019|

Transcript Highlight: Dr. Chris Heilman on Starting with the Breath

Most top climbers agree that their mindset is one of the most important factors influencing their performance. Whether they are sport climbers, boulders, or comp climbers, these athletes agree that they can't put forth their best efforts unless they have put themselves into the correct mental state first. That sounds [...]

September 12th, 2019|

Dan Mirsky: How I Trained for Fat Camp

Dan Mirsky is one of the most passionate and driven climbers I know. When it comes to putting his head down and working his projects, Dan is as dedicated as they come. Dan is also calculated and driven with his training. If he thinks something is going to improve his [...]

September 4th, 2019|

The Knowledge Quest with Sam Elias and Esther Smith

Climbing injuries happen. While we can be proactive with our prevention and follow a well-designed training program, if you climb long enough, you're going to deal with an injury. Whether it's a shoulder, elbow, or finger injury, you're going to be confronted with an injury of some kind. What's most [...]

August 29th, 2019|

Dr. Tyler Nelson: The “Simplest” Finger Training Program

The idea that finger strength is an important factor in climbing performance is a well-established fact. As a community, we've also accepted certain assumptions about training finger strength, including that hanging from a hangboard is the most effective way to improve finger strength. While I won't argue that the hangboard [...]

August 15th, 2019|

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