TrainingBeta Blog2018-03-22T15:07:26+00:00

Quantifying Isometrics Part 2: Program Auto-Regulation and Its Implications on Finger Training

A few months back, Dr. Tyler Nelson, a sports scientist and climber who owns a chiropractic sports medicine clinic and strength and conditioning business in Salt Lake City, wrote an article that covered the use of isometrics in training for climbing. This first article, Preparing to Try Hard Part I: Isometric [...]

September 12th, 2018|

Brian Suntay: How I Trained for a Successful Sport Climbing Season

Training programs may look great on paper, but people seldom follow them exactly. Instead, their training changes to reflect their schedule, goals, and life commitments. That's why we're starting a series here at TrainingBeta where real climbers share how they actually trained, why they did what they did, and what kind [...]

August 21st, 2018|

Performance Climbing Coach Seminar with Steve Bechtel, Neely Quinn, etc

If you take your climbing training seriously (or your clients') and you feel like you just can't get enough information about it by reading and watching videos, then it might be time for you to invest in more hands-on learning. Steve Bechtel created the Performance Climbing Coach Seminar, a 2-day [...]

August 9th, 2018|

Climb Strong: Foundation Strength

We all know that getting stronger is an important part of improving climbing performance. However, many periodized programs give us the idea that we should only work on strength during certain blocks of our training. According to Steve Bechtel of Climb Strong, this isn't the best approach. Instead, he advocates [...]

August 9th, 2018|

Moon Climbing: 6 Shoulder Stability Exercises

Because of the increase in shoulder injuries, climbers are really concerned with shoulder injury prevention. To give you some ideas about how to incorporate shoulder stability work into your training, here's an article from Moon Climbing where British climber Olivia Ratcliffe outlines six shoulder stability exercises. While the concern about [...]

August 7th, 2018|

Matt Pincus: Training While Trying to Send

You've trained hard for months, you're feeling strong, and conditions are prime on your project. It's time to send! But wait?!?!?!?!?! You've got a job and commitments outside of climbing. This means you can only get to your project on the weekend. What do you do with the rest of [...]

August 1st, 2018|

Rock and Ice: Michaela Kiersch on Setting Goals

It's easy to look at the big accomplishments of the climbing elite and think that these sends just happened because of how strong and talented these athletes are. However, this view not only glosses over all the hard work these climbers put in, but it also completely skips the first and [...]

July 24th, 2018|

Matt Pincus: Principles of Core Training

You've been in the gym for hours. Your fingers are stiff. Your skin hurts. Despite all of this you want to do more. After all, you want to get stronger and training is supposed to be hard. So what do you do? You head to the gym's training area and think, [...]

July 17th, 2018|

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