TrainingBeta Blog2018-03-22T15:07:26+00:00

Neely Quinn: Training for Short Climbers

As a short climber, sometimes the way I do moves on routes or boulders is a lot different than what a taller person would do. And let's be honest: sometimes what I do is harder than what a normal-sized person would do. I'm about 5'0" with a negative 1" ape [...]

June 6th, 2019|

Transcript Highlight: The Access Fund on How We Can All Protect Our Climbing Areas

The spring and summer climbing season is upon us! This means it's time for long days, road trips, camping, and generally getting outside to enjoy the wild places we love. With that said, all of us here at TrainingBeta thought this would be a good time to issue a friendly [...]

May 30th, 2019|

Dr. Tyler Nelson: Finger Training with Blood Flow Restriction

Training effectively always requires walking the fine line between enough training to get the stimulus required to improve and not overdoing it, which can quickly undermine your efforts and lead to injury. One of the main issues for climbers trying to find the correct training volume is balancing the need [...]

May 23rd, 2019|

Transcript Highlight: Steve Bechtel on New Endurance Training Methods

You're above your bolt gunning for the chains on your project. But wait! Your forearms are getting pumped, your elbows start to chicken wing, you start to panic, and before you know it your hanging from the end of your rope. No send this time.  We all know the feeling, [...]

April 17th, 2019|

Marina Inoue: How I Trained for Dark Age V11

With training, it's easy to think that more is always the answer - more exercises, more sessions, and more training tools. The reality though is that just "more" is seldom the way forward. Well thought-out training plans don't necessarily require complex periodization schemes or months away from outdoor climbing. Instead, they [...]

March 28th, 2019|

Transcript Highlight: Dr. Jared Vagy on The Frequency of Injury Prevention Exercises

Injuries suck. Not only do they prevent us from climbing in the short term, but they de-rail long term progress by forcing us to spend seasons on the couch rather than at the crag becoming better and stronger climbers. It's no surprise then that if you look anywhere within the [...]

March 21st, 2019|

Brannon Frank: Max Isometrics and Their Application for Youth Coaches

The use of isometrics in climbing training is growing. While they've been common practice in finger strength training for a long time (think hangboarding), the use of max isometrics in a variety of strength training modalities is becoming more diverse and widespread. While they might seem like they are only [...]

March 14th, 2019|

Kuba Lacina Video: 20-Minute Overall Fitness Workout

Kuba Lacina made an entertaining video showing you how to do the 20-minute overall fitness workout that Kris Peters outlined in our podcast about how to train overall fitness for rock climbing. In the interview, Kris says, "We need to be ok with suffering, feeling terrible, and being able to [...]

March 4th, 2019|

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