TrainingBeta Blog2018-03-22T15:07:26+00:00

Esther Smith and BD Beta Videos

With all the information and videos out there, it can be hard to separate the good advice from the bad. Our best advice for the self-coached climber is to be critical of the source and heed the advice of true experts. To be clear, "expert' doesn't just mean professional climber [...]

July 18th, 2019|

Dan Mirsky: Gnarly Nutrition Performance Greens Review

With all the sports supplements on the market these days designed to help performance, it's pretty confusing to sort out what is the right one to use in the right situation. Should I be taking creatine even though I don't want to look like a bodybuilder? Should I take beta [...]

July 2nd, 2019|

Transcript Highlight: Brianna Greene and How Dealing with Fear Helped Her Climb 5.12a

Dealing with fear is part of climbing. Unfortunately, a failure to manage fear is one of the things that holds peoples' climbing back the most. You can train hard, get stronger fingers, and have world-class endurance, but if you aren't comfortable climbing above a bolt you're not going to be [...]

June 27th, 2019|

Leif Gasch: How I Trained for Less Than Zero 5.14b

With training, it's easy to get obsessed with the idea of perfect. We all want to know what the perfect hangboard protocol is, what the perfect periodization scheme is, or what perfect set of supplemental exercises will let us reach our goals. Essentially, we want the perfect training program. Ask [...]

June 11th, 2019|

Neely Quinn: Training for Short Climbers

As a short climber, sometimes the way I do moves on routes or boulders is a lot different than what a taller person would do. And let's be honest: sometimes what I do is harder than what a normal-sized person would do. I'm about 5'0" with a negative 1" ape [...]

June 6th, 2019|

Transcript Highlight: The Access Fund on How We Can All Protect Our Climbing Areas

The spring and summer climbing season is upon us! This means it's time for long days, road trips, camping, and generally getting outside to enjoy the wild places we love. With that said, all of us here at TrainingBeta thought this would be a good time to issue a friendly [...]

May 30th, 2019|

Dr. Tyler Nelson: Finger Training with Blood Flow Restriction

Training effectively always requires walking the fine line between enough training to get the stimulus required to improve and not overdoing it, which can quickly undermine your efforts and lead to injury. One of the main issues for climbers trying to find the correct training volume is balancing the need [...]

May 23rd, 2019|

Transcript Highlight: Steve Bechtel on New Endurance Training Methods

You're above your bolt gunning for the chains on your project. But wait! Your forearms are getting pumped, your elbows start to chicken wing, you start to panic, and before you know it your hanging from the end of your rope. No send this time.  We all know the feeling, [...]

April 17th, 2019|

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