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TrainingBeta Blog2018-03-22T15:07:26+00:00

John Kettle: 6 Ways to Lengthen Your Reach

Not long ago we published an article by Neely about how she trains to compensate for being short. The response was great and it clearly seems like a topic many people are interested in and need help with. Today, we have another article about training to climb taller than you [...]

August 6th, 2019|

Drugs, Alcohol, and Climbing Survey: Help A Professor with His Research

UPDATE: This survey is not available anymore as they are moving on the next phase of their research. We will update you when the results are in.  A while back we conducted a survey about marijuana usage among climbers and whether or not people consider it a performance enhanching drug. [...]

August 5th, 2019|

Transcript Highlight: Jonathan Siegrist on Trying Hard

Jonathan Siegrist is a badass. His resume of hard routes speaks for itself and, with several 9b/5.15b sends under his belt, he's in an exclusive club of the world's best rock climbers. For the rest of us, when you see that a climber of Jonathan's ability has sent another hard [...]

July 25th, 2019|

Esther Smith and BD Beta Videos

With all the information and videos out there, it can be hard to separate the good advice from the bad. Our best advice for the self-coached climber is to be critical of the source and heed the advice of true experts. To be clear, "expert' doesn't just mean professional climber [...]

July 18th, 2019|

Dan Mirsky: Gnarly Nutrition Performance Greens Review

With all the sports supplements on the market these days designed to help performance, it's pretty confusing to sort out what is the right one to use in the right situation. Should I be taking creatine even though I don't want to look like a bodybuilder? Should I take beta [...]

July 2nd, 2019|

Transcript Highlight: Brianna Greene and How Dealing with Fear Helped Her Climb 5.12a

Dealing with fear is part of climbing. Unfortunately, a failure to manage fear is one of the things that holds peoples' climbing back the most. You can train hard, get stronger fingers, and have world-class endurance, but if you aren't comfortable climbing above a bolt you're not going to be [...]

June 27th, 2019|

Leif Gasch: How I Trained for Less Than Zero 5.14b

With training, it's easy to get obsessed with the idea of perfect. We all want to know what the perfect hangboard protocol is, what the perfect periodization scheme is, or what perfect set of supplemental exercises will let us reach our goals. Essentially, we want the perfect training program. Ask [...]

June 11th, 2019|

Neely Quinn: Training for Short Climbers

As a short climber, sometimes the way I do moves on routes or boulders is a lot different than what a taller person would do. And let's be honest: sometimes what I do is harder than what a normal-sized person would do. I'm about 5'0" with a negative 1" ape [...]

June 6th, 2019|

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