The TrainingBeta Podcast
The Best Resource for Climbing Training Beta
On the TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn talks to climbers, coaches, physical therapists, and other professionals about how to get better at rock climbing. As a nutritionist and a mindset coach, she offers her own expertise to the mix as well. You can expect to find actionable advice and meaningful conversations on this podcast that will help you train smarter, fuel yourself better, and find more fulfillment in your rock climbing.
TBP 319 :: Rocklands Trip Report and What Matt Needs to Train Now
Coach Matt Pincus recaps his super successful bouldering trip to Rocklands, how he managed his time and skin while he was there, and what he thinks he needs to train now.
TBP 318: Zoe Sayetta on Cognitive Dissonance, Competitiveness, & Body Image in Climbing
Sport Psychology Coach Zoe Sayetta talks about how to hold the good and the bad about your climbing simultaneously, how to foster a healthy competitive spirit, and body images issues stemming from social comparison.
TBP 317: How to Overcome Climbing Plateaus with Alex Stiger
Coach Alex Stiger discusses the different kinds of climbing plateaus and what people can do to get past them.
TBP 316 :: Consent On and Off the Wall with Author Lillian Frances
Rock climber and author Lillian Frances talks consent, communication, and pleasure — and why asking for what you want is the hottest thing you can do.
TBP 315 :: Full-Time Road Life and Climbing Hard at 70 & 56 with the Odettes
Chuck and Maggie Odette (70 and 56 years old) talk about what it's like living on the road for the past 11 years, how they stay strong climbing outside all year, how their recent surgeries have impacted their grades, and what it's like getting older as a passionate climber.
TBP 314 :: Lifestyle & Training Changes Matt Made to Send a 3-Season Project
Coach Matt Pincus talks about how to make the most of your board climbing sessions and how to have good etiquette.
TBP 313: Research on Burnout, Performance, and Mental Health in Climbers with Dr. Maria Stefania Ionel
Romanian sport psychologist Dr. Maria Stefania Ionel talks about current research about burnout and performance in rock climbers.
TBP 312 :: How to Navigate Relationship Issues with Your Climbing Partner
Neely Quinn, Nutritionist & Mindset Coach, does a solo episode about the most common food anxieties in climbers and tools to deal with them.
TBP 311 :: How to Get Out of Your Own Way with Board Climbing
Coach Matt Pincus talks about how to make the most of your board climbing sessions and how to have good etiquette.
TBP 310 :: What to Do about Migraines as an Athlete with Dr. Danielle Wilhour
Dr. Danielle Wilhour joins Neely to discuss how to manage migraines as a climber
TBP 309 :: Why Climbers Are So Anxious About Food — And What to Do About It
Neely Quinn, Nutritionist & Mindset Coach, does a solo episode about the most common food anxieties in climbers and tools to deal with them.
TBP 308: Overtraining – The Causes and Consequences and How to Stop Doing It
Coach Alex Stiger and host Neely Quinn discuss the reasons people overtrain, what the consequences are physically and mentally, and how to get to the root cause so you can stop doing it.
TBP 307 :: Board Climbing Pros, Cons, and Best Uses with Matt Pincus
Coach Matt Pincus talks about the pros and cons of each climbing board, how to best use them, and pitfalls to avoid.
TBP 306 :: A Kinder Way to Work through Fear of Falling – Therapist Emma McAdam
Professional climber and World Cup champion, Natalia Grossman, talks about coming back from her knee surgery, her mindset in comps, and her training.
TBP 305: Things Alex Wishes She’d Known as a Beginner Climber
Coach Alex Stiger discusses all the things she wishes she'd known when she first started out as a beginner climber.