The TrainingBeta Podcast

Trainer Matt Pincus does a full 1.5 hr session with 5.11 climber, Hayley Thomas, and gives her a clear plan for how to improve her climbing.

I talk with Rachel Briggs about how she has two young children and climbs harder now than she ever has. We talk about the physical, mental, and emotional struggles that mothers have, and how she's navigated those.

I talk with Matt Pincus about how to project routes and boulders more effectively and efficiently so you can send more quickly.

In this interview I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about a simple yet effective finger strength protocol, which uses no weights or pulleys, just isometric pulling on a hangboard.

I talk with Charlie Manganiello and Alex Bridgewater of ClimbStrong.com about the most common mistakes they see climbers making with their training.

I talk with James Lucas about how he became a stronger boulderer just by climbing outside more. He discusses how he got out a few times a week even with a full-time job and what he learned about projecting efficiently.

In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about how to heal and prevent elbow injuries using his Rock Rehab Pyramid for rock climbers.

I talk with Josh Larson, Head Coach of the US National Climbing Team, about how USA Climbing is helping to prepare athletes for World Cups and the Olympics.

In this interview I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about how to heal the most common tendon injuries in climbers using isometric exercises with heavy loads.

Professional climber Sierra Blair-Coyle talks about the intense training she does for national and world cup comps, as well as her career as a model and how she deals with online harassment and negativity.