In the TrainingBeta podcast, I talk to rock climbers and climbing trainers about training for rock climbing so that we can get a little better at our favorite sport. Every week or so I publish a new interview where I talk to pro climbers, non-pro climbers, climbing trainers, and other members of the climbing community about their climbing training philosophies, what they’re up to these days, and their thoughts on diet. I hope these talks help you train smart and climb hard.
TBP 125 :: Jonathan Siegrist on La Planta de Shiva and Our Experience in Spain
I talk with Jonathan a bit about how he prepared for la Planta de Shiva and his epically pumped send of it. He also asks me about my contrasting experience of climbing in Spain, wherein I failed to send my own project.
TBP 124: Shaina Savoy on 12a to 13a in 6 Months and Cultivating A Positive Attitude
Our TrainingBeta Instagram Manager and savage climber, Shaina Savoy, talks about how she went from 12a to 13a in 6 months and how she tames negative self-talk while climbing.
TBP 123: How John Kettle Went from V7 to V11 and 5.11d to 5.13b in 18 Months
Climbing coach and guide John Kettle talks about how he improved his technique and strength to break a decade+ plateau from V7 to V11 and 5.11d to 5.13b in a very short time.
TBP 122 :: The Access Fund – How Our Behavior Threatens Climbing Access and How We Can Do Better
In this interview, Zachary Lesch-Huie from the Access Fund discusses all the negative behaviors we engage in that threaten climbing access and the enjoyment of others. We talk about dogs, noise, crowds, poop, pee, erosion, kids, and how we can all do better.
TBP 121: Life Coach Remy Franklin on Setting Priorities & Attaining Goals
In this podcast interview, life coach Remy Franklin talks about how to prioritize your goals and figure out what actions you need to take to be successful.
TBP 120: How Brianna Greene Trained to Send Her First 5.12a
In this interview, Brianna Greene describes how she overcame fear and low confidence in order to send her first 5.12a last fall.
TBP 119: How Tom O’Halloran Climbs 9a While Raising A Daughter and Working Full-Time
In this interview, Australian climber Tom O'Halloran talks about how he manages to climb 9a and V14 while holding down a full-time job and raising a daughter.
TBP 118 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on the Latest Tech for Finger Training and Testing
In this interview I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about the latest device for testing finger strength and power output and how it's revolutionizing climbing training.
TBP 117: 15-Yr-Old Tanner Bauer on Training for 14b & Growth Plate Injury
In this interview, 15-year-old Tanner Bauer explains how training with his team got him to 5.14 and comp wins, and how he sustained a growth plate injury.
TBP 116 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Healing Finger Injuries
In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about how to heal and prevent finger pulley sprains and other finger injuries using his Rock Rehab Pyramid for rock climbers.