On the TrainingBeta podcast, Neely Quinn talks to rock climbers and trainers about training for rock climbing so that we can get a little better at our favorite sport. Every week or so Neely publishes a new interview with pro climbers, non-pro climbers, climbing trainers, and other members of the climbing community about their climbing training philosophies, what they’re up to these days, and their thoughts on diet. We hope these talks help you train smarter and climb harder. If you have any suggestions for topics or guests, please let us know about them on this form.
TBP 139: Coach Bradley Hilbert on Youth Team Training Methods
Bradley Hilbert, head coach of one of the best youth teams in the U.S., talks about cutting edge training tactics and the importance of values in teams.
TBP 138: Marina Inoue on Short-Person Training and Body Image Issues
I talk with Marina Inoue about overcoming her short stature through specific training, why she loves living in her van full-time, and some relatable body image issues.
TBP 137: Kris Hampton – 6 Movement Drills to Improve Your Climbing
I talk with Kris Hampton of Power Company Climbing about the most important movement drills he uses in his own climbing and with his clients.
TBP 136: 5.11 Climber Hayley Thomas Is Coached by Matt Pincus
Trainer Matt Pincus does a full 1.5 hr session with 5.11 climber, Hayley Thomas, and gives her a clear plan for how to improve her climbing.
TBP 135: Rachel Briggs on Navigating Climbing as a Mother
I talk with Rachel Briggs about how she has two young children and climbs harder now than she ever has. We talk about the physical, mental, and emotional struggles that mothers have, and how she's navigated those.
TBP 134 :: Matt Pincus On the Priniciples of Projecting
I talk with Matt Pincus about how to project routes and boulders more effectively and efficiently so you can send more quickly.
TBP 133 :: The Simplest Finger Training Protocol with Dr. Tyler Nelson
In this interview I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about a simple yet effective finger strength protocol, which uses no weights or pulleys, just isometric pulling on a hangboard.
TBP 132: ClimbStrong’s Charlie and Alex – 5 Common Training Mistakes Climbers Make
I talk with Charlie Manganiello and Alex Bridgewater of ClimbStrong.com about the most common mistakes they see climbers making with their training.
TBP 131: James Lucas on Improving His Bouldering the Old Fashioned Way
I talk with James Lucas about how he became a stronger boulderer just by climbing outside more. He discusses how he got out a few times a week even with a full-time job and what he learned about projecting efficiently.
TBP 130 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Healing Elbow Injuries
In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about how to heal and prevent elbow injuries using his Rock Rehab Pyramid for rock climbers.