On the TrainingBeta podcast, Neely Quinn talks to climbers and trainers about training for rock climbing so that we can get “a little better at our favorite sport.” Every week or so, Neely publishes a new interview with pro climbers, non-pro climbers, climbing trainers, and other members of the climbing community about their climbing training philosophies, what they’re up to these days, and their thoughts on diet. We hope these talks help you train smarter and climb harder. If you have any suggestions for topics or guests, please let us know about them on this form.
TBP 146 :: Matt Pincus on Climbing Training at Home During COVID-19
I talk with Matt Pincus about how to train at home during COVID-19. We discuss how we're training ourselves, recommended equipment, how to approach training at home, and some workouts you can do.
TBP 145 :: Mark Campbell on TRX Training for Climbers
Mark Campbell teaches us how to use the TRX to train our core and become stronger climbers. He went from V0 to V8 in 2 months, partly due to TRX training.
TBP 144 :: Pete Whittaker of Wide Boyz Fame on Crack Climbing Training
I talked with Pete Whittaker of Wide Boyz fame about how he trains for hard offwidth and trad climbs, and about his new book on crack climbing.
TBP 143 :: Sport Psychologist Chris Heilman Does A Session with Neely
I talked with sports psychologist, Dr. Chris Heilman, about how she works with people and then she does a session with me, Neely Quinn.
TBP 142 :: Zahan Billimoria on Core Training for Climbing
In this interview I talk with coach, climber, and mountain guide, Zahan Billimoria, about how (and why) to strengthen your core for rock climbing.
TBP 141: Dietitian Marisa Michael on Disordered Eating and RED-S in Climbers
Dietitian Marisa Michael discusses eating disorders, disordered eating, and RED-S in climbers, including research she and colleagues have done on the topics.
TBP 140: Mercedes Pollmeier on Mobility and Technique Drills
Climbing trainer Mercedes Pollmeier talks about the importance of mobility work in climbing, and 5 technique drills she uses with her clients to improve climbing skills and strength.
TBP 139: Coach Bradley Hilbert on Youth Team Training Methods
Bradley Hilbert, head coach of one of the best youth teams in the U.S., talks about cutting edge training tactics and the importance of values in teams.
TBP 138: Marina Inoue on Short-Person Training and Body Image Issues
I talk with Marina Inoue about overcoming her short stature through specific training, why she loves living in her van full-time, and some relatable body image issues.
TBP 137: Kris Hampton – 6 Movement Drills to Improve Your Climbing
I talk with Kris Hampton of Power Company Climbing about the most important movement drills he uses in his own climbing and with his clients.