On the TrainingBeta podcast, Neely Quinn talks to climbers and trainers about training for rock climbing so that we can get “a little better at our favorite sport.” Every week or so, Neely publishes a new interview with pro climbers, non-pro climbers, climbing trainers, and other members of the climbing community about their climbing training philosophies, what they’re up to these days, and their thoughts on diet. We hope these talks help you train smarter and climb harder. If you have any suggestions for topics or guests, please let us know about them on this form.
TBP 150 :: Matt Pincus on Returning to Climbing after a Break
I talk with Matt Pincus about how to efficiently return to climbing after a long break. We discuss everything from frustration about getting pumped quickly to reassessing goals to meet your new reality.
TBP 149 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on the Role of Stretching for Climbers
In this interview, Tyler Nelson explains why climbers need to stretch, when to stretch, and what type of stretching is appropriate at different times.
TBP 148 :: Neely Quinn and Alyssa Neill on Nutrition for Climbers during Quarantine and Beyond
I had a conversation with fellow nutrition practitioner, Alyssa Neill, RDN, about how we can eat to truly nourish ourselves during quarantine and beyond.
TBP 147 :: Steve Bechtel, Kris Hampton, and Tom Randall on Best Practices for Training at Home
In this interview, I talked with trainers Steve Bechtel, Kris Hampton, and Tom Randall about how they're guiding their clients to train at home during the COVID-19 pandemic.
TBP 146 :: Matt Pincus on Climbing Training at Home During COVID-19
I talk with Matt Pincus about how to train at home during COVID-19. We discuss how we're training ourselves, recommended equipment, how to approach training at home, and some workouts you can do.
TBP 145 :: Mark Campbell on TRX Training for Climbers
Mark Campbell teaches us how to use the TRX to train our core and become stronger climbers. He went from V0 to V8 in 2 months, partly due to TRX training.
TBP 144 :: Pete Whittaker of Wide Boyz Fame on Crack Climbing Training
I talked with Pete Whittaker of Wide Boyz fame about how he trains for hard offwidth and trad climbs, and about his new book on crack climbing.
TBP 143 :: Sport Psychologist Chris Heilman Does A Session with Neely
I talked with sports psychologist, Dr. Chris Heilman, about how she works with people and then she does a session with me, Neely Quinn.
TBP 142 :: Zahan Billimoria on Core Training for Climbing
In this interview I talk with coach, climber, and mountain guide, Zahan Billimoria, about how (and why) to strengthen your core for rock climbing.
TBP 141: Dietitian Marisa Michael on Disordered Eating and RED-S in Climbers
Dietitian Marisa Michael discusses eating disorders, disordered eating, and RED-S in climbers, including research she and colleagues have done on the topics.