The TrainingBeta Podcast

The TrainingBeta Podcast 2017-11-18T22:32:45+00:00

In the TrainingBeta podcast, I talk to climbers and trainers about how we can get a little better at our favorite sport. Every week or so I publish a new interview where I talk to my guests about their climbing training philosophies, what they’re up to these days, and their thoughts on diet. I hope these talks give you some more psych to train.

2017-09-18T06:51:24+00:00

TBP 072 :: How Danny Robertson Broke A 10-Year Plateau

Date: January 26th, 2017 About Danny Robertson Danny Robertson is a 41-year-old climber out of Carbondale, Colorado who's been climbing for about 15 years. He's a full-time 7th-grade teacher, so he has summers off with his wife Wendy, who's also a teacher. This affords [...]

2017-09-18T06:51:52+00:00

TBP 059 :: Access Fund on Going from Gym to Crag Responsibly

Date: August 30th, 2016 Google Play For Android Users iTunes Show Page About The Access Fund The Access Fund is an organization dedicated to keeping climbing areas open for climbers while keeping land owners happy with those climbers. Since 1981, the organization has been helping to end disputes between climbers and landowners [...]

2017-09-18T06:51:53+00:00

Ask Kris 011 :: Online Training Vs In-Person Training

Date: July 15th, 2016 Google Play For Android Users iTunes Show Page Online Training Vs In-Person Training for Climbing This week in our Ask Kris episode, we talked about the pros and cons of 3 different training types: In-person training with a coach one-on-one Online training with a coach one-on-one Online [...]

2017-09-18T06:51:57+00:00

Ask Kris 010 :: Training on a Time Budget

Date: June 23rd, 2016 Google Play For Android Users iTunes Show Page Training for Climbing on A Time Budget This week, in our tenth mini Ask Kris episode, we talked about how you can train at home or in the gym on a time budget. We talk about what boulderers should focus [...]

2017-09-18T06:51:58+00:00

TBP 057 :: Joshua Rucci Compares Training College Athletes to Climbers

Date: June 28th, 2016 Google Play For Android Users iTunes Show Page About Joshua Rucci This is an interview with Joshua Rucci, a collegiate Strength and Conditioning Coach in the Southeastern Conference (in Athens). He currently coaches women's basketball and women's gymnastics, and he has experience coaching all kinds of athletes, including [...]

2017-09-18T06:52:00+00:00

Ask Kris 009 :: Efficient Home Training for Climbing

Date: June 23rd, 2016 Efficient Home Training for Climbing This week, in our ninth mini episode of Ask Kris, we talked about how you can train at home efficiently, no matter what equipment you have to work with. We go through a few scenarios, ranging from a guy Kris worked with who [...]

2017-09-18T06:52:04+00:00

TBP 055 :: Lynn Hill (need I say more?)

Date: June 14th, 2016 About Lynn Hill This is an interview with Lynn Hill, who's arguably the most famous climber of all time. She was the first person to free The Nose on El Cap (5.14-), the first woman to climb 5.14a, the first woman to onsight 5.13b, and she was [...]

2017-09-18T06:52:06+00:00

Ask Kris 007 :: Are You Overtraining?

Date: June 9th, 2016 Are You Overtraining? This week, in our seventh mini episode of Ask Kris, we talked about the signs and symptoms of overtraining, and how much rest people really need. Here's what we talked about: What overtraining looks like How long you should feel tired after starting a [...]

2017-09-18T06:52:07+00:00

TBP 054 :: Ryan Vachon on Mixed Climbing Training

Date: June 7th, 2016 About Ryan Vachon This is an interview with Ryan Vachon, a 43-year-old who won the Ouray Mixed Climbing Competition this year (2016) and sent Saphira, M15- shortly afterward. As a full-time climate scientist at his company, Earth Inititiatives, he has a lot on his plate. He's the ultimate weekend [...]

2017-09-18T06:52:09+00:00

Ask Kris 006 :: Improving Overall Fitness for Climbing

Date: May 26th, 2016 Improving Overall Fitness for Climbing This week, in our sixth mini episode of Ask Kris, we talked about how to improve overall fitness for climbing. I was actually a little bit confused about what "fitness" really meant, and Kris helped me understand what it is and how to gain [...]

2017-09-18T06:52:10+00:00

TBP 053 :: Aaron Mulkey on Ice Climbing Training

Date: May 24th, 2016 About Aaron Mulkey This is an interview with Aaron Mulkey, the 39-year-old who was dubbed the "Patriarch of Cody Ice" for his 100+ first ascents in the Wyoming area. We dig in to what motivates him to find new routes and climb so hard, all while maintaining [...]

2017-09-18T06:52:11+00:00

Ask Kris 005 :: Improving Core Strength for Climbing

Date: May 16th, 2016 Improving Core Strength for Climbing This week, in our fifth mini episode of Ask Kris, we talked about how to improve core strength for climbing. Having just spent last week in Rifle on my project, I realized that I need to gain a lot of core strength myself, [...]