On the TrainingBeta podcast, Neely Quinn talks to rock climbers and trainers about training for rock climbing so that we can get a little better at our favorite sport. Every week or so Neely publishes a new interview with pro climbers, non-pro climbers, climbing trainers, and other members of the climbing community about their climbing training philosophies, what they’re up to these days, and their thoughts on diet. We hope these talks help you train smarter and climb harder. If you have any suggestions for topics or guests, please let us know about them on this form.
TBP 134 :: Matt Pincus On the Priniciples of Projecting
I talk with Matt Pincus about how to project routes and boulders more effectively and efficiently so you can send more quickly.
TBP 133 :: The Simplest Finger Training Protocol with Dr. Tyler Nelson
In this interview I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about a simple yet effective finger strength protocol, which uses no weights or pulleys, just isometric pulling on a hangboard.
TBP 132: ClimbStrong’s Charlie and Alex – 5 Common Training Mistakes Climbers Make
I talk with Charlie Manganiello and Alex Bridgewater of ClimbStrong.com about the most common mistakes they see climbers making with their training.
TBP 131: James Lucas on Improving His Bouldering the Old Fashioned Way
I talk with James Lucas about how he became a stronger boulderer just by climbing outside more. He discusses how he got out a few times a week even with a full-time job and what he learned about projecting efficiently.
TBP 130 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Healing Elbow Injuries
In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about how to heal and prevent elbow injuries using his Rock Rehab Pyramid for rock climbers.
TBP 129: Josh Larson on Prepping the US Team for World Cups and the Olympics
I talk with Josh Larson, Head Coach of the US National Climbing Team, about how USA Climbing is helping to prepare athletes for World Cups and the Olympics.
TBP 128 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson’s Surprising Methodologies for Healing Tendons
In this interview I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about how to heal the most common tendon injuries in climbers using isometric exercises with heavy loads.
TBP 127: Sierra Blair-Coyle on Training, Modeling, and Online Negativity
Professional climber Sierra Blair-Coyle talks about the intense training she does for national and world cup comps, as well as her career as a model and how she deals with online harassment and negativity.
TBP 126: How Kyle Lindsay Trained to Send His First 13a after A 5.12 Plateau
Kyle Lindsay tells us how he went from a 5.12 plateau to sending his first 2 5.13a's by changing up his training. We also talk about the mental barriers to climbing 5.13a and how his diet helped him become stronger.
TBP 125 :: Jonathan Siegrist on La Planta de Shiva and Our Experience in Spain
I talk with Jonathan a bit about how he prepared for la Planta de Shiva and his epically pumped send of it. He also asks me about my contrasting experience of climbing in Spain, wherein I failed to send my own project.