In the TrainingBeta podcast, I talk to rock climbers and climbing trainers about training for rock climbing so that we can get a little better at our favorite sport. Every week or so I publish a new interview where I talk to pro climbers, non-pro climbers, climbing trainers, and other members of the climbing community about their climbing training philosophies, what they’re up to these days, and their thoughts on diet. I hope these talks help you train smart and climb hard.
TBP 118 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on the Latest Tech for Finger Training and Testing
In this interview I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about the latest device for testing finger strength and power output and how it's revolutionizing climbing training.
TBP 117: 15-Yr-Old Tanner Bauer on Training for 14b & Growth Plate Injury
In this interview, 15-year-old Tanner Bauer explains how training with his team got him to 5.14 and comp wins, and how he sustained a growth plate injury.
TBP 116 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Healing Finger Injuries
In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about how to heal and prevent finger pulley sprains and other finger injuries using his Rock Rehab Pyramid for rock climbers.
TBP 115 :: Dalton Bunker on Sending 9a, Training Endurance, and Being Vegan
In this interview, Dalton Bunker explains how he trains for outdoor climbing and comp climbing, and how becoming a vegan helped his health and his climbing.
TBP 114 :: Lattice Training – 5 Training Hacks for The Time-Poor Climber
Date: October 17th, 2018 About Lattice Training's Tom Randall and Ollie Torr Tom Randall and Ollie Torr are the head trainers and founders at www.latticetraining.com, and in this second interview with them, we talked about some training hacks for people who don't [...]
TBP 113 :: How Dru Mack Is So Dang Good at Endurance Climbing
In this interview, Dru Mack tells us about his never-ending psych for climbing and how he trains to have such extraordinary endurance on long routes.
TBP 112 :: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk on Overcoming Fears and Setting Big Goals
Mina Leslie-Wujastyk talks about how she's training to climb 5.14d, how she overcame fear of falling after an accident, and her dialed-in diet.
TBP 111 :: Matt Pincus On Fitting Everything Into Your Training Program
I talk with Matt Pincus about how you can't actually fit EVERYTHING into your training program, but you can prioritize what to train based on your goals.
TBP 110 :: Steve Bechtel on Training Endurance for Climbing
In this episode I talk to revered climbing trainer, Steve Bechtel, about how we can efficiently train endurance and power endurance for rock climbing.
TBP 109 :: How Electrician Leif Gasch Sent His First 5.14b at Age 38
In this interview I talk with 38-year-old full-time electrician, Leif Gasch, about how he went through 5 training cycles with some of the best trainers in the world, and finally landed on a training program that allowed him to send his first 5.14b.