The TrainingBeta Podcast

In this interview, I talk with professional climber Paige Claassen about how she trained for the trip we're currently on together in Flatanger, Norway.

In this interview, I talk with professional climber Paige Claassen about how she trained for the trip we're currently on together in Flatanger, Norway.

In this interview, I talk with professional climber Paige Claassen about how she trained for the trip we're currently on together in Flatanger, Norway.

In this interview, I talk with Esther Smith, physical therapist, about common neck and back issues in climbers and how to rehab them.

In this interview, I talk with Dr. Tyler Nelson about the science of training, how to rehab finger injuries, and what blood flow restriction training is.

Date: August 3rd, 2017 About Maureen Beck Maureen (Mo) Beck is a 30-year-old climber from Maine who followed her passion for climbing to Colorado like so many of us have. She climbs 5.11+ and is working on her first 5.12-. She started [...]

Date: July 6th, 2017 About Lee Sheftel Lee Sheftel is sort of a living legend in Rifle Park, known as the guy who's a little bit older who still climbs hard routes. He's 71 years old and he still climbs 5.13's regularly. He [...]

Date: June 9th, 2017 Justin Brown and Skin Care for Climbers Justin Brown is a climber of 20+ years who had skin issues. His hands were sweaty and he got split tips too often. He decided to start experimenting with skin care [...]

Date: June 1st, 2017 About Steve Bechtel Steve Bechtel is a well-known climbing trainer, and I've had him on the podcast 2 other times now (here and here). I think he'll just be a regular on the show because we all love listening [...]

May 23rd, 2017 Power Company Podcast iTunes Page Neely Quinn on The Power Company Podcast I (Neely) recently taught nutrition at a climbing training seminar in Lander with Steve Bechtel, and Kris Hampton of The Power Company was one of the participants of the seminar. After the seminar, he kindly asked to [...]

Date: May 19th, 2017 About Daniel Woods Daniel Woods needs no introduction really, but in case you don't know who he is... he's super strong. He's climbed possibly 3 V16's, lots of V15's, 5.15a, and he's a 9-time US Bouldering National champion. He [...]

Date: May 4th, 2017 About Natasha Barnes Natasha Barnes is a former competitive climber, a competitive power lifter, and a doctor of chiropractic with a specialty in rehabilitation of sports injuries. She lives in San Francisco, California and has a private practice [...]

Date: April 24th, 2017 About Shannon O'Grady Shannon O’Grady is the Director of Product for Gnarly Nutrition. She has her doctorate in Biology from the University of Utah, and through research in nutritional physiology and her own obsession with sports nutrition, ended up [...]

Date: About Esther Smith Esther Smith is a Doctor of Physical Therapy, a Nutritional Therapy Practitioner, and the owner of Grassroots Physical Therapy in Salt Lake City. She is a 5.13- climber who's reaped the benefits of her own physical therapy practices, [...]

Date: March 8th, 2017 About Madaleine Sorkin Madaleine Sorkin is a 35-year-old climber originally from D.C., who's known for her alpine and big wall ascents. She makes a living as a sponsored climber and as a climbing guide and clinic leader. She's currently [...]

Date: February 13th, 2017 About Margarita Martinez My first experience of Margarita Martinez was at the Red River Gorge, watching her dance her way up Bohica 5.13b. She ended up falling on it, but I remember her laughing as she fell, and [...]

Date: January 26th, 2017 About Danny Robertson Danny Robertson is a 41-year-old climber out of Carbondale, Colorado who's been climbing for about 15 years. He's a full-time 7th-grade teacher, so he has summers off with his wife Wendy, who's also a teacher. This affords [...]

Date: January 6th, 2017 About Esther Smith Esther Smith is a Doctor of Physical Therapy, a Nutritional Therapy Practitioner, and the owner of Grassroots Physical Therapy in Salt Lake City. She is a 5.13- climber who's reaped the benefits of her [...]

Date: December 22nd, 2016 About Josh Dreher Josh Dreher is, among many other things, the husband of Teal Dreher, who was my first "normal person" interview on the podcast. I wanted to do another "normal person" interview, and I thought that Josh would [...]

Date: December 12th, 2016 About Jess Simmons Jess Simmons is a Registered Yoga Teacher (200-RYT) and Personal Trainer (NASM CPT) on a quest to climb harder and healthier. She integrates the physical, mental, and spiritual practices of yoga with modern exercise science [...]

Date: November 15th, 2016 About Dr. Chris Heilman Dr. Christina Heilman is a Sports Psychologist, as well as a personal trainer (CSCS and ATC) who earned her PhD in Sport and Exercise Psychology from the University of Utah. She is an avid skier, [...]

Date: November 2nd, 2016 About Esther Smith Esther Smith is a Doctor of Physical Therapy, a Nutritional Therapy Practitioner, and the owner of Grassroots Physical Therapy in Salt Lake City. She is a 5.13- climber who's reaped the benefits of her own physical [...]

Date: October 27th, 2016 About Beth Rodden Beth Rodden is a climbing icon and absolutely a hero of mine. She broke barriers for women in sport climbing and big wall climbing, being the first American woman to climb 5.14b, the first woman to [...]

Date: October 19th, 2016 About Dan Mirsky Dan Mirsky is an understated crusher. I’ve been watching him gracefully take down rock climbs all over the country for the last 10 years. In 2013, we witnessed his fitness (literally) in The Red when we were [...]

Date: October 14th, 2016 About The Anderson Brothers For the uninitiated, Mark and Mike are the Rock Prodigy guys, the authors of the very popular book, The Rock Climber’s Training Manual, all about the training methods they’ve developed over the last two decades. They’re [...]

Date: September 12th, 2016 Google Play For Android Users iTunes Show Page About Sam Elias One of my first memories of Sam Elias was this: He was climbing on The Crew (14c) in Rifle, and he'd skipped 3 clips in a row on the top half. He was climbing to the death, screaming [...]

Date: August 30th, 2016 Google Play For Android Users iTunes Show Page About The Access Fund The Access Fund is an organization dedicated to keeping climbing areas open for climbers while keeping land owners happy with those climbers. Since 1981, the organization has been helping to end disputes between climbers and landowners [...]

Date: June 21st, 2016 About Dr. Tom Hackett This is an interview with Dr. Tom Hackett, a shoulder, elbow, and knee surgeon who performed all three of my husband's and my shoulder surgeries. Dr. Hackett works out of the acclaimed Steadman Clinic in Vail, Colorado, and has extensive training in arthroscopic treatment [...]