In the TrainingBeta podcast, I talk to climbers and trainers about how we can get a little better at our favorite sport. Every week or so I publish a new interview where I talk to my guests about their climbing training philosophies, what they’re up to these days, and their thoughts on diet. I hope these talks give you some more psych to train.
TBP 103 :: Dr. Kate Bennett Eating Disorders and Climbers
In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about how to heal and prevent rotator cuff strains and neck strain.
TBP 102 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Rotator Cuff and Neck Strain
In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about how to heal and prevent rotator cuff strains and neck strain.
TBP 101 :: How Alex Biale Comes Back Stronger After Serious Injuries
In this interview, I talk with Alex Biale about how he has come back as a stronger climber after multiple ankle, finger, and other injuries, and how you can too.
TBP 100 :: Kyra Condie’s Hangboard and Campus Board Training Program
In this interview, I talk with Kyra Condie about her current training program, including her weekly schedule, her exact hangboard and campus board routines, how she does bouldering circuits, and her thoughts on the 2018 USAC Nationals comps.
TBP 099 :: Sasha DiGiulian on Current Training, FFA’s, Her Weight, and Nutrition
In this interview, I talk with Sasha DiGiulian about her current training regime, how her body weight has affected her climbing and people's opinions of her, how her goals have changed over the years, and what significance she puts on FFA's.
TBP 098 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Preparing to Try Hard and Testing Whether or Not You Should
In this interview, I talk with Dr. Tyler Nelson about the science of training, how to rehab finger injuries, and what blood flow restriction training is.
Ask Matt :: Comparing Finger Training Protocols
This is a mini version of the TrainingBeta Podcast, where I talk with trainer, Matt Pincus, for just 20 minutes. He compares the various finger training protocols out there and helps you figure out what protocol is best for your climbing goals, and the 3 main things you should be focused on, no matter what protocol you're using.
TBP 097 :: How to Overcome Fear in Climbing with Author Roanne van Voorst
In this interview with researcher and climber, Dr. Roanne van Voorst, we talk about her new book, Fear. In it, she interviewed Alex Honnold, Hazel Findlay, and many other extreme athletes about how they cope with and move through fear.
TBP 096 :: Sports Psychologist Chris Heilman on Imagery and Setting Realistic Goals
In our second interview I talked with sports psychologist, Dr. Chris Heilman, about her new book on sports performance. We discussed using imagery, setting realistic goals, performing under pressure, limiting beliefts, and staying motivated.
TBP 095 :: Zahan Billimoria on Alpine Training with Minimal Equipment
In this interview I talk with coach, climber, mountain guide, and skier, Zahan Billimoria about how he trains his athletes for mountain objectives using minimal equipment.