In the TrainingBeta podcast, I talk to rock climbers and climbing trainers about training for rock climbing so that we can get a little better at our favorite sport. Every week or so I publish a new interview where I talk to pro climbers, non-pro climbers, climbing trainers, and other members of the climbing community about their climbing training philosophies, what they’re up to these days, and their thoughts on diet. I hope these talks help you train smart and climb hard.
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In this interview I talk with competitive climber and performance coach, Tiffany Melius, about how she trains for World Cup events and the Olympics, and how she coaches people to perform better mentally.
In this interview I talk with Esther Smith, physical therapist, about common ankle and foot issues in climbers and how to rehab them.
In this interview, I talk with Alex Biale about how he has come back as a stronger climber after multiple ankle, finger, and other injuries, and how you can too.
In this interview, I talk with Kyra Condie about her current training program, including her weekly schedule, her exact hangboard and campus board routines, how she does bouldering circuits, and her thoughts on the 2018 USAC Nationals comps.
In this interview, I talk with Sasha DiGiulian about her current training regime, how her body weight has affected her climbing and people's opinions of her, how her goals have changed over the years, and what significance she puts on FFA's.
In this interview, I talk with Dr. Tyler Nelson about the science of training, how to rehab finger injuries, and what blood flow restriction training is.
This is a mini version of the TrainingBeta Podcast, where I talk with trainer, Matt Pincus, for just 20 minutes. He compares the various finger training protocols out there and helps you figure out what protocol is best for your climbing goals, and the 3 main things you should be focused on, no matter what protocol you're using.