In the TrainingBeta podcast, I talk to rock climbers and climbing trainers about training for rock climbing so that we can get a little better at our favorite sport. Every week or so I publish a new interview where I talk to pro climbers, non-pro climbers, climbing trainers, and other members of the climbing community about their climbing training philosophies, what they’re up to these days, and their thoughts on diet. I hope these talks help you train smart and climb hard.
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In this interview with researcher and climber, Dr. Roanne van Voorst, we talk about her new book, Fear. In it, she interviewed Alex Honnold, Hazel Findlay, and many other extreme athletes about how they cope with and move through fear.
In our second interview I talked with sports psychologist, Dr. Chris Heilman, about her new book on sports performance. We discussed using imagery, setting realistic goals, performing under pressure, limiting beliefts, and staying motivated.
In this interview I talk with coach, climber, mountain guide, and skier, Zahan Billimoria about how he trains his athletes for mountain objectives using minimal equipment.
In this interview, I talk with Esther Smith, physical therapist, about common hip and knee issues in climbers and how to rehab them.
In this interview I talk with Matt Pincus about how he transitioned from bouldering to routes, and how he stayed strong through some serious injuries.
In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about his 4-step pyramid for healing climbing injuries like shoulder impingement, rotator cuff strain, and neck strain.
Date: October 5th, 2017 About Tom Randall and Ollie Torr Tom Randall and Ollie Torr are the head trainers at www.latticetraining.com, and I got to sit down with both of them to talk about the research they're doing for the sport of climbing. [...]
In this interview, I talk with climbing trainer, Charlie Manganiello about what it takes to train for - and perform well in - more than 1 sport at a time.
In this interview, I talk with professional climber Paige Claassen about how she trained for the trip we're currently on together in Flatanger, Norway.
In this interview, I talk with professional climber Adam Ondra about how he trained for his recent ascent of "Silence", the world's first 5.15d / 9c.