The Climbing Doctor: Finger Pulley Strains

Climbing is hard on our fingers. No matter how careful you are or how diligently you train your fingers, finger tweaks can happen. Finger pulley strains are by far the most common of these, but that doesn't mean we just [...]

By | 2018-12-21T11:03:54+00:00 December 21st, 2018|0 Comments

Moon Climbing: 6 Shoulder Stability Exercises

Because of the increase in shoulder injuries, climbers are really concerned with shoulder injury prevention. To give you some ideas about how to incorporate shoulder stability work into your training, here's an article from Moon Climbing where British climber Olivia [...]

By | 2018-08-08T10:45:31+00:00 August 7th, 2018|1 Comment

The Climbing Doctor: Shoulder Injuries – The SLAP Tear

Climbing injury rates are on the rise. If you climb long enough, chances are you're going to deal with an injury at some point. However, this doesn't mean we should just be sitting back waiting for injuries to happen. Most [...]

By | 2018-07-10T11:32:45+00:00 July 10th, 2018|0 Comments

Cafe Kraft: Lower Body Mobility Drills

As climbers, we tend to focus most of our training on our upper bodies. I'm talking about finger strength, pulling power, the strength endurance of the forearm, ect. While these are all important for climbing performance, training programs shouldn't neglect [...]

By | 2018-06-21T08:42:25+00:00 June 21st, 2018|0 Comments

Cafe Kraft: Upper Body Mobility Drills

Climbing and training place serious physical demands on our upper body. These demands result in continual wear and tear on joints like shoulders and elbows. One only has to look at the ever-increasing number of shoulder injuries in climbers to see [...]

By | 2018-06-13T16:49:06+00:00 June 13th, 2018|0 Comments

The Climbing Doctor: Low Back Pain and Climbing

Low back pain can be extremely debilitating and affects a large portion of the population. While low back pain is extremely common in the entire population, it also affects climbers as many of our repetitive movement patterns can quickly lead to [...]

By | 2018-04-30T10:52:04+00:00 April 8th, 2018|0 Comments

Climbing Magazine: Prevent and Correct Muscle Imbalances

We all know that climbing helps us get strong over time. It would be nice to think that strength develops evenly. However, due to old injuries, incorrect form when training, uneven movement patterns, and the nature of our sport, we [...]

By | 2018-03-30T09:08:47+00:00 March 30th, 2018|0 Comments

Natasha Barnes: Stress/Recovery/Adaptation Cycle and Climbing

Overuse injuries are a common problem in climbers. We all want to get stronger, climb every day, reach our goals, and continue progressing through the grades. However, the problem is for most of us our psyche and desire to climb [...]

By | 2018-03-14T08:42:09+00:00 March 14th, 2018|0 Comments