Esther Smith and BD Beta Videos

With all the information and videos out there, it can be hard to separate the good advice from the bad. Our best advice for the self-coached climber is to be critical of the source and heed the advice of true [...]

By |2019-07-18T11:57:19+00:00July 18th, 2019|0 Comments

Transcript Highlight: Dr. Jared Vagy on The Frequency of Injury Prevention Exercises

Injuries suck. Not only do they prevent us from climbing in the short term, but they de-rail long term progress by forcing us to spend seasons on the couch rather than at the crag becoming better and stronger climbers. It's [...]

By |2019-03-29T17:11:19+00:00March 21st, 2019|1 Comment

The Climbing Doctor: Finger Pulley Strains

Climbing is hard on our fingers. No matter how careful you are or how diligently you train your fingers, finger tweaks can happen. Finger pulley strains are by far the most common of these, but that doesn't mean we just [...]

By |2019-02-26T13:54:10+00:00December 21st, 2018|0 Comments

Moon Climbing: 6 Shoulder Stability Exercises

Because of the increase in shoulder injuries, climbers are really concerned with shoulder injury prevention. To give you some ideas about how to incorporate shoulder stability work into your training, here's an article from Moon Climbing where British climber Olivia [...]

By |2018-08-08T10:45:31+00:00August 7th, 2018|1 Comment

The Climbing Doctor: Shoulder Injuries – The SLAP Tear

Climbing injury rates are on the rise. If you climb long enough, chances are you're going to deal with an injury at some point. However, this doesn't mean we should just be sitting back waiting for injuries to happen. Most [...]

By |2018-07-10T11:32:45+00:00July 10th, 2018|0 Comments

Cafe Kraft: Lower Body Mobility Drills

As climbers, we tend to focus most of our training on our upper bodies. I'm talking about finger strength, pulling power, the strength endurance of the forearm, ect. While these are all important for climbing performance, training programs shouldn't neglect [...]

By |2018-06-21T08:42:25+00:00June 21st, 2018|0 Comments

Cafe Kraft: Upper Body Mobility Drills

Climbing and training place serious physical demands on our upper body. These demands result in continual wear and tear on joints like shoulders and elbows. One only has to look at the ever-increasing number of shoulder injuries in climbers to see [...]

By |2018-06-13T16:49:06+00:00June 13th, 2018|0 Comments

The Climbing Doctor: Low Back Pain and Climbing

Low back pain can be extremely debilitating and affects a large portion of the population. While low back pain is extremely common in the entire population, it also affects climbers as many of our repetitive movement patterns can quickly lead to [...]

By |2018-04-30T10:52:04+00:00April 8th, 2018|0 Comments