Rest Days by Liz Haas

Today, we've got an article about most climbers' least favorite topic: rest days.  Listen, we get it.  Climbing is a lot more fun than not climbing.  However, EVERYONE needs rest.  Additionally, while rest days are important for all climbers, they are [...]

By | July 19th, 2017|0 Comments

The Climbing Doctor: Thoracic Mobility for Climbers

Mobility is the new buzzword in injury prevention and rehab.  While mobility work certainly isn't new, climbers are starting to realize that actively working on and improving our mobility is essential for pain free climbing. You can work on mobility [...]

By | June 16th, 2017|0 Comments

Esther Smith: New Grassroots Self Treatment Videos

If you follow the TrainingBeta Podcast, then you are no doubt familiar with physical therapist Esther Smith.  She is an incredibility talented physical therapist who works primarily with climbers and is a 5.13 climber herself.  Obviously, for climbers, with our [...]

By | June 13th, 2017|0 Comments

Natasha Barnes – Ankle Sprains

So, you're on a bouldering trip.  You're trying to send your project and you jump for the last hold only to miss and come crashing into the pads.  Only this time instead of shouting in frustration and then resting up for [...]

By | May 30th, 2017|1 Comment

Evening Sends: Climbing Mobility with Kelly Starrett

With all the talk in the training community about injury prevention, it can seem like overuse injuries are the inevitable outcome of hard climbing and training.  However, this attitude is missing the most important part of injury prevention and that's [...]

By | May 24th, 2017|0 Comments

Route Setting to Prevent Injury with Chris Danielson

When it comes to climbing and especially to training, climbers are spending more and more of their time climbing in indoor gyms.  While gyms are the perfect place to hone your skills, there are some important differences between indoor and [...]

By | May 19th, 2017|0 Comments

Dr. Jared Vagy: Using a Luggage Scale to Quantify Strength

If you have ever been injured, you know that one of the most frustrating parts is not knowing if you are gaining strength and progressing in your recovery.  The reason for this is that it can be very difficult to [...]

By | May 13th, 2017|0 Comments

Eric Hörst: Reducing Risk of Growth Plate Fractures in Youth Climbers

As rock climbing continues to grow in popularity, one of the best features of this growth is increased opportunities for youth climbers.  Climbing is an amazing sport for developing both physical and mental skills that have positive effects on youth's [...]

By | May 8th, 2017|0 Comments