Evening Sends: How Paige Claassen Sent Her Proj With Only 1 Hour Per Day

As I've sure you've seen by now, Paige Claassen recently sent Necessary Evil 5.14c. When Chris Sharma first established Necessary Evil in 1997, it was the hardest route in the country. In the 21 years since the first ascent, Necessary Evil [...]

By | 2018-02-18T08:22:26+00:00 February 18th, 2018|0 Comments

Eric Hörst: 4 Pull-Up Variations

There's a lot more that goes into climbing well than simply our ability to pull with our upper body. That being said, climbing does have upper body strength requirements. As a result, we should practice climbing technique, but in our training, [...]

By | 2018-02-11T16:02:34+00:00 February 11th, 2018|0 Comments

Climb Strong: Developing General Grip Strength

More and more climbers are learning about the benefits of general strength training. That's why you see climbers deadlifting, squatting, and swinging kettlebells. These climbers are doing it right. Training general strength helps climbers become more well-rounded, durable athletes. However, when [...]

By | 2018-02-05T14:33:32+00:00 February 5th, 2018|0 Comments

Route Climbing Training: Cross Training and Mobility Workout

An unfortunate reality in climbing is that we are often limited by our skin. However, just because our skin is worn out and our fingers have had enough doesn't mean we can't still do some quality training. In fact, there [...]

By | 2018-02-02T18:17:48+00:00 February 2nd, 2018|0 Comments

Rock and Ice: Improve Your Pinch Strength

When it comes to improving overall finger strength, hangboards are the gold standard. However, hangboard training works most effectively when training for edge, pocket, and crimp holds. They are, however, not as effective for improving pinch strength. The main reason [...]

By | 2018-01-31T11:22:21+00:00 January 31st, 2018|1 Comment

Climbing Magazine: Jonathan Siegrist on Improving Your Climbing

Since you've made your way to TrainingBeta, it's a pretty safe bet you want to improve your climbing. You probably want to climb higher and higher grades and are looking for information about how training can help you make that [...]

By | 2018-01-28T08:11:12+00:00 January 28th, 2018|0 Comments

Eric Hörst: Learn From Watching Margo Hayes Send Biographie

Climbing 5.15 isn't something most of us are going to achieve. However, watching videos of top climbers, like Margo Hayes, send their projects is beneficial beyond simply being entertaining. That is as long as you watch the videos critically and [...]

By | 2018-01-27T12:41:47+00:00 January 27th, 2018|0 Comments

Evening Sends – Becoming a Better Climber in 2018

Technically it'still January. That means it's still New Year's resolution season. While goal setting is an important part of progressing as a climber, becoming a better climber isn't always about climbing the next hardest grade. Redefining our goals can change [...]

By | 2018-01-23T10:14:00+00:00 January 23rd, 2018|0 Comments