The Project Magazine – Malcolm Smith Interview

Training for climbing may seem like the hot new thing right now.  However, while training may be more popular than ever, there have been people systematically training with incredible amounts of discipline for decades.  While they didn't have the beautiful [...]

By | March 29th, 2017|0 Comments

Transitioning from Bouldering to Sport Climbing: 5.9 to 5.14

It's Neely here, and today I have the distinct privilege of introducing TrainingBeta's content manager, Matt Pincus, as our featured author of this article. Matt is a psyched and accomplished climber, and he's put a lot of time and thought [...]

By | March 22nd, 2017|1 Comment

Splitter Choss: Training With a Finger Injury

If you climb long enough, you're going to at least tweak a finger.  For most climbers, when we injure a finger the immediate reaction is to think we need to take some time off climbing to let things heal.  If [...]

By | March 17th, 2017|0 Comments

Climbing Meta – Training Tracker

One of the most important parts of training is effectively tracking your progress.  Doing so ensures that you are able to progressively increase the difficulty of your training as you improve.  Progressively increasing the intensity of your training guarantees you are [...]

By | March 14th, 2017|1 Comment

FrictionLabs Features Dan Mirsky: Fundamentals of Training for Climbing

Here's an article from the FrictionLabs blog by climber, coach, and friend of TrainingBeta Dan Mirsky, in which he outlines the areas he feels any successful climbing training program should center upon. As climbers, we are always looking for an edge to [...]

By | March 3rd, 2017|0 Comments

Steve Bechtel – Hangboarding for the Longterm

One thing that has been scientifically proven is that improved finger strength correlates directly to improved climbing performance.  With our current understanding of how to train for rock climbing just barely entering the scientific arena, having such a direct correlation [...]

By | February 19th, 2017|0 Comments

Hang Right – Part II: Elbow Pain in Climbers

In a recent TrainingBeta Podcast episode, Neely spoke with climber and physical therapist Esther Smith specifically about elbow pain.  In their talk, they covered exactly what can cause elbow pain, what climbers can do to treat their conditions, and what [...]

By | February 17th, 2017|0 Comments

Training Women For Upper-Body and Core Strength

For many female climbers, upper-body and core strength can be weaknesses that affect climbing performance.  Obviously, with climbing being a sport that revolves around strength to weight ratio, addressing any weaknesses in upper-body and core strength is important for any [...]

By | February 15th, 2017|3 Comments