Quantifying Isometrics Part 2: Program Auto-Regulation and Its Implications on Finger Training

A few months back, Dr. Tyler Nelson, a sports scientist and climber who owns a chiropractic sports medicine clinic and strength and conditioning business in Salt Lake City, wrote an article that covered the use of isometrics in training for [...]

By | 2018-09-12T18:33:22+00:00 September 12th, 2018|1 Comment

Climb Strong: Foundation Strength

We all know that getting stronger is an important part of improving climbing performance. However, many periodized programs give us the idea that we should only work on strength during certain blocks of our training. According to Steve Bechtel of [...]

By | 2018-08-09T08:53:38+00:00 August 9th, 2018|0 Comments

Matt Pincus: Principles of Core Training

You've been in the gym for hours. Your fingers are stiff. Your skin hurts. Despite all of this you want to do more. After all, you want to get stronger and training is supposed to be hard. So what do you [...]

By | 2018-07-17T10:03:53+00:00 July 17th, 2018|0 Comments

Cafe Kraft: Lower Body Mobility Drills

As climbers, we tend to focus most of our training on our upper bodies. I'm talking about finger strength, pulling power, the strength endurance of the forearm, ect. While these are all important for climbing performance, training programs shouldn't neglect [...]

By | 2018-06-21T08:42:25+00:00 June 21st, 2018|0 Comments

Cafe Kraft: Upper Body Mobility Drills

Climbing and training place serious physical demands on our upper body. These demands result in continual wear and tear on joints like shoulders and elbows. One only has to look at the ever-increasing number of shoulder injuries in climbers to see [...]

By | 2018-06-13T16:49:06+00:00 June 13th, 2018|0 Comments

Tension Climbing – Foundations

It doesn't take long on the internet to find loads of new climbing training exercises. Quite often, exercises are even presented as some kind of shortcut to climbing improvement. Combine this abundance of information with the fact that our scientific [...]

By | 2018-06-13T14:55:37+00:00 June 12th, 2018|0 Comments

Matt Pincus: 4 Keys to Limit Bouldering

A staple of most training programs is that they contain some kind of bouldering. Even programs designed for route climbers typically have a bouldering component. The reason for this is that bouldering is a simple and efficient way to train strength [...]

By | 2018-05-31T09:27:05+00:00 May 31st, 2018|0 Comments

Matt Pincus: Fitting Everything In

A big question I get from my athletes is about fitting everything into their training schedule. After all, there are only so many hours in the week and you need rest days so fitting everything in can be difficult. However, we [...]

By | 2018-05-23T14:04:30+00:00 May 24th, 2018|1 Comment