Transcript Highlight: Steve Bechtel on New Endurance Training Methods

You're above your bolt gunning for the chains on your project. But wait! Your forearms are getting pumped, your elbows start to chicken wing, you start to panic, and before you know it your hanging from the end of your [...]

By |2019-04-17T13:42:04+00:00April 17th, 2019|0 Comments

Marina Inoue: How I Trained for Dark Age V11

With training, it's easy to think that more is always the answer - more exercises, more sessions, and more training tools. The reality though is that just "more" is seldom the way forward. Well thought-out training plans don't necessarily require complex [...]

By |2019-03-29T17:08:38+00:00March 28th, 2019|0 Comments

Brannon Frank: Max Isometrics and Their Application for Youth Coaches

The use of isometrics in climbing training is growing. While they've been common practice in finger strength training for a long time (think hangboarding), the use of max isometrics in a variety of strength training modalities is becoming more diverse [...]

By |2019-03-29T17:17:59+00:00March 14th, 2019|0 Comments

Transcript Highlight: Lattice Training on the Perfect 1-Hour Session

Climbing training takes time. Unfortunately, most of us have schedules that are anything but full of extra time we can devote to our training. However, being low on time doesn't mean you can't have quality training sessions and progress your [...]

By |2019-02-13T09:24:34+00:00February 13th, 2019|0 Comments

Quantifying Isometrics Part 2: Program Auto-Regulation and Its Implications on Finger Training

A few months back, Dr. Tyler Nelson, a sports scientist and climber who owns a chiropractic sports medicine clinic and strength and conditioning business in Salt Lake City, wrote an article that covered the use of isometrics in training for [...]

By |2018-09-12T18:33:22+00:00September 12th, 2018|1 Comment

Climb Strong: Foundation Strength

We all know that getting stronger is an important part of improving climbing performance. However, many periodized programs give us the idea that we should only work on strength during certain blocks of our training. According to Steve Bechtel of [...]

By |2018-12-24T09:39:08+00:00August 9th, 2018|0 Comments

Matt Pincus: Principles of Core Training

You've been in the gym for hours. Your fingers are stiff. Your skin hurts. Despite all of this you want to do more. After all, you want to get stronger and training is supposed to be hard. So what do you [...]

By |2019-02-10T12:28:33+00:00July 17th, 2018|0 Comments