Esther Smith and BD Beta Videos

With all the information and videos out there, it can be hard to separate the good advice from the bad. Our best advice for the self-coached climber is to be critical of the source and heed the advice of true [...]

By |2019-07-18T11:57:19+00:00July 18th, 2019|0 Comments

Neely Quinn: Training for Short Climbers

As a short climber, sometimes the way I do moves on routes or boulders is a lot different than what a taller person would do. And let's be honest: sometimes what I do is harder than what a normal-sized person [...]

By |2019-06-06T10:21:23+00:00June 6th, 2019|11 Comments

Transcript Highlight: Steve Bechtel on New Endurance Training Methods

You're above your bolt gunning for the chains on your project. But wait! Your forearms are getting pumped, your elbows start to chicken wing, you start to panic, and before you know it your hanging from the end of your [...]

By |2019-04-17T13:42:04+00:00April 17th, 2019|0 Comments

Marina Inoue: How I Trained for Dark Age V11

With training, it's easy to think that more is always the answer - more exercises, more sessions, and more training tools. The reality though is that just "more" is seldom the way forward. Well thought-out training plans don't necessarily require complex [...]

By |2019-03-29T17:08:38+00:00March 28th, 2019|0 Comments

Brannon Frank: Max Isometrics and Their Application for Youth Coaches

The use of isometrics in climbing training is growing. While they've been common practice in finger strength training for a long time (think hangboarding), the use of max isometrics in a variety of strength training modalities is becoming more diverse [...]

By |2019-03-29T17:17:59+00:00March 14th, 2019|0 Comments

Transcript Highlight: Lattice Training on the Perfect 1-Hour Session

Climbing training takes time. Unfortunately, most of us have schedules that are anything but full of extra time we can devote to our training. However, being low on time doesn't mean you can't have quality training sessions and progress your [...]

By |2019-02-13T09:24:34+00:00February 13th, 2019|0 Comments

Quantifying Isometrics Part 2: Program Auto-Regulation and Its Implications on Finger Training

A few months back, Dr. Tyler Nelson, a sports scientist and climber who owns a chiropractic sports medicine clinic and strength and conditioning business in Salt Lake City, wrote an article that covered the use of isometrics in training for [...]

By |2018-09-12T18:33:22+00:00September 12th, 2018|1 Comment