Climbing Magazine – Effective System Board Training

Chances are you've all seen a system board before.  It's the mirrored training wall sitting in the corner of your gym collecting dust.  However, despite the fact that these boards aren't used all that often, when utilized properly they can [...]

By | 2017-11-20T15:29:10+00:00 November 20th, 2017|0 Comments

Rock and Ice: Campus-Board Fundamentals

When used properly, the campus-board is one the best tools we have available for developing climbing specific power.  However, campus-boards are also the training tool that is most commonly used incorrectly.  If you are going to campus, taking the time [...]

By | 2017-11-17T11:26:42+00:00 November 17th, 2017|0 Comments

Climb Strong: Effective Warm-Ups

We talk a lot about how our training should be specific to our actual climbing goals.  However, when it comes to warming up, we can all acknowledge how important it is, but for most of us warming up simply consists [...]

By | 2017-11-15T09:36:11+00:00 November 15th, 2017|0 Comments

Evening Sends – 5 Minute Fingers

Here at TrainingBeta, we get asked a lot, "What's the best hangboard workout?"  Our answer, though, probably isn't what most people are looking for.  Sure, different hangboard protocols have different benefits and drawbacks, but, ultimately, the "best hangboard workout" is the [...]

By | 2017-11-16T17:53:49+00:00 November 13th, 2017|0 Comments

ClimbFlow: Leg Strength and Mobility Video

With most climbing training, whether we are hangboarding, campusing, or working out on the rings, we focus almost exclusively on the upper body.  While these types of training are definitely valuable as they are climbing specific, completely neglecting your lower [...]

By | 2017-11-08T09:29:39+00:00 November 8th, 2017|0 Comments

Bouldering Training: Free Volume Workout

A new trend in training for bouldering is to put all the focus on doing the hardest possible moves.  While limit bouldering sessions are certainly important for building power, they do not allow you to do a larger volume of [...]

By | 2017-11-04T12:03:18+00:00 November 4th, 2017|0 Comments

Transcript Highlight: Lattice Training on The Training Needs of Males vs Females

It may seem obvious that men and women have different strengths and weaknesses as climbers and athletes.  However, while we are quick to make generalizations about which climbs are better suited to either men or women, we don't seem to [...]

By | 2017-10-24T12:16:27+00:00 October 24th, 2017|0 Comments

Eric Hörst – Managing the Fear of Falling Video

One of the most common things holding climbers back is a fear of falling.  Whether you are bouldering or sport climbing, there is no way to effectively climb your hardest if you are paralyzed by a fear.  Now, obviously there are [...]

By | 2017-10-20T10:51:06+00:00 October 20th, 2017|0 Comments