About Matt Pincus

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So far Matt Pincus has created 336 blog entries.

Evening Sends: Climbing Mobility with Kelly Starrett

With all the talk in the training community about injury prevention, it can seem like overuse injuries are the inevitable outcome of hard climbing and training.  However, this attitude is missing the most important part of injury prevention and that's [...]

By | May 24th, 2017|0 Comments

Route Setting to Prevent Injury with Chris Danielson

When it comes to climbing and especially to training, climbers are spending more and more of their time climbing in indoor gyms.  While gyms are the perfect place to hone your skills, there are some important differences between indoor and [...]

By | May 19th, 2017|0 Comments

Top 5 TrainingBeta Podcasts

Neely has been putting out TrainingBeta Podcasts now for years and they are full of all kinds of amazing training information from some of the top climbers and trainers out there.  She is even up to 78 episodes and counting! [...]

By | May 19th, 2017|0 Comments

Transcript Highlight: Margarita Martinez on Training Endurance

Training endurance seems pretty simple.  Just climb until you are pumped silly and repeat right? While this approach can definitely work, how can you be sure you are actually reaching your maximum pump level?  Did you fall because you truly [...]

By | May 17th, 2017|0 Comments

Dr. Jared Vagy: Using a Luggage Scale to Quantify Strength

If you have ever been injured, you know that one of the most frustrating parts is not knowing if you are gaining strength and progressing in your recovery.  The reason for this is that it can be very difficult to [...]

By | May 13th, 2017|0 Comments

Mark Anderson – 40 Climbing Lessons

Training guru and author of the Rock Climbers Training Manual Mark Anderson recently turned 40 (happy birthday from TrainingBeta!).  To celebrate, Mark wrote a blog post in which he outlined 40 climbing lessons he's learned during his year involved in [...]

By | May 11th, 2017|0 Comments

Bouldering Program – Free Strength and Power Workout

For bouldering, strength and power are king and one of the best tools for training climbing specific power is the campus board.  However, while the campus board is definitely a powerful tool it is often misused.  Not only will this [...]

By | May 11th, 2017|0 Comments

Top 5 Climbing Technique Articles

Climbing is first and foremost a skill sport. No amount of strength or power is going to get you up difficult routes and boulders if you don't know how to move properly and have good climbing technique. However, working on [...]

By | May 10th, 2017|0 Comments