As climbers, we tend to focus most of our training on our upper bodies. I'm talking about finger strength, pulling power, the strength endurance of the forearm, ect. While these are all important for climbing performance, training programs shouldn't neglect [...]
Over the past couple of weeks, I (Matt Pincus) have been sharing excerpts from Neely's conversation with Dutch climber and researcher Roane Van Voorst. So far we've looked at how Lynn Hill deals with fear and how Hazel Findlay practices dealing [...]
Climbing and training place serious physical demands on our upper body. These demands result in continual wear and tear on joints like shoulders and elbows. One only has to look at the ever-increasing number of shoulder injuries in climbers to see [...]
It doesn't take long on the internet to find loads of new climbing training exercises. Quite often, exercises are even presented as some kind of shortcut to climbing improvement. Combine this abundance of information with the fact that our scientific [...]
Two weeks ago, I (Matt Pincus) shared an excerpt from the TrainingBeta Podcast episode with Dutch climber and researcher Roane Van Voorst about how Lynn Hill deals with fear. The episode itself is about Van Voorst's book Fear! in which she interviews top [...]
A staple of most training programs is that they contain some kind of bouldering. Even programs designed for route climbers typically have a bouldering component. The reason for this is that bouldering is a simple and efficient way to train strength [...]
Route climbing has its own unique set of techniques, strategies, and training considerations. At times, route climbing can often feel casual. Afterall, a day at the crag doing routes well within your ability is simple enough and downright fun. However, [...]
A big question I get from my athletes is about fitting everything into their training schedule. After all, there are only so many hours in the week and you need rest days so fitting everything in can be difficult. However, we [...]