About Matt Pincus

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So far Matt Pincus has created 518 blog entries.

Transcript Highlight: Steve Bechtel on New Endurance Training Methods

You're above your bolt gunning for the chains on your project. But wait! Your forearms are getting pumped, your elbows start to chicken wing, you start to panic, and before you know it your hanging from the end of your [...]

By |2019-04-17T13:42:04+00:00April 17th, 2019|0 Comments

Marina Inoue: How I Trained for Dark Age V11

With training, it's easy to think that more is always the answer - more exercises, more sessions, and more training tools. The reality though is that just "more" is seldom the way forward. Well thought-out training plans don't necessarily require complex [...]

By |2019-03-29T17:08:38+00:00March 28th, 2019|0 Comments

Transcript Highlight: Dr. Jared Vagy on The Frequency of Injury Prevention Exercises

Injuries suck. Not only do they prevent us from climbing in the short term, but they de-rail long term progress by forcing us to spend seasons on the couch rather than at the crag becoming better and stronger climbers. It's [...]

By |2019-03-29T17:11:19+00:00March 21st, 2019|1 Comment

Brannon Frank: Max Isometrics and Their Application for Youth Coaches

The use of isometrics in climbing training is growing. While they've been common practice in finger strength training for a long time (think hangboarding), the use of max isometrics in a variety of strength training modalities is becoming more diverse [...]

By |2019-03-29T17:17:59+00:00March 14th, 2019|0 Comments

Danny Robertson: How I Train for Limit Sport Climbs

Projecting limit sport climbs is a process. It's a process with lots of pitfalls along the way. Many climbers sabotage themselves both on the route and in their preparation beforehand, but ultimately, there's an art to projecting. We've done our best [...]

By |2019-03-29T17:21:26+00:00February 21st, 2019|1 Comment

Transcript Highlight: Lattice Training on the Perfect 1-Hour Session

Climbing training takes time. Unfortunately, most of us have schedules that are anything but full of extra time we can devote to our training. However, being low on time doesn't mean you can't have quality training sessions and progress your [...]

By |2019-02-13T09:24:34+00:00February 13th, 2019|0 Comments

Brianna Greene: How I Trained for My First 5.12

Climbing our first 5.12 is a big deal to a lot of us. At that level, it's easy to get sucked into believing that sessions on the hangboard, bouldering for power, and lifting weights will get you past that 5.11 [...]

By |2019-03-29T17:24:46+00:00January 10th, 2019|1 Comment

Remy Franklin: A Better Way to Set Your New Year’s Climbing Goals

Yes, it’s that time of year again. The last days of December roll around, everyone flocks to El Potrero Chico, and when January hits you take stock of your life and join the roughly half of Americans who set a [...]

By |2019-03-29T17:26:36+00:00January 3rd, 2019|2 Comments