About Matt Pincus

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So far Matt Pincus has created 422 blog entries.

Training for Climbing: Windshield Wipers Core Exercise

There's no such thing as too much core strength in climbing.  Having a strong core allows us to keep our hips into the wall, transfer weight through our feet on steep terrain, hold swings, and general move efficiently on rock.  [...]

By | 2017-11-17T15:42:12+00:00 November 17th, 2017|0 Comments

Transcript Highlight: Charlie Manganiello on Gaining vs Maintaining Strength

A common trap climbers fall into is thinking that the training you are doing today is going to help you send your project tomorrow.  The unfortunate reality is that it takes time for us to really make gains through training.  [...]

By | 2017-11-17T13:40:15+00:00 November 17th, 2017|0 Comments

Rock and Ice: Campus-Board Fundamentals

When used properly, the campus-board is one the best tools we have available for developing climbing specific power.  However, campus-boards are also the training tool that is most commonly used incorrectly.  If you are going to campus, taking the time [...]

By | 2017-11-17T11:26:42+00:00 November 17th, 2017|0 Comments

Climb Strong: Effective Warm-Ups

We talk a lot about how our training should be specific to our actual climbing goals.  However, when it comes to warming up, we can all acknowledge how important it is, but for most of us warming up simply consists [...]

By | 2017-11-15T09:36:11+00:00 November 15th, 2017|0 Comments

Evening Sends – 5 Minute Fingers

Here at TrainingBeta, we get asked a lot, "What's the best hangboard workout?"  Our answer, though, probably isn't what most people are looking for.  Sure, different hangboard protocols have different benefits and drawbacks, but, ultimately, the "best hangboard workout" is the [...]

By | 2017-11-16T17:53:49+00:00 November 13th, 2017|0 Comments

Climbing Magazine: Three Subtle Technique Changes with Justen Sjong

When our performance plateaus, most of us immediately feel like we need to double down on our training.  After all, climbs would feel a whole lot easier if you just had stronger fingers, could do 1-5-9 on the campus board, [...]

By | 2017-11-10T13:17:23+00:00 November 10th, 2017|0 Comments

ClimbFlow: Leg Strength and Mobility Video

With most climbing training, whether we are hangboarding, campusing, or working out on the rings, we focus almost exclusively on the upper body.  While these types of training are definitely valuable as they are climbing specific, completely neglecting your lower [...]

By | 2017-11-08T09:29:39+00:00 November 8th, 2017|0 Comments

Bouldering Training: Free Volume Workout

A new trend in training for bouldering is to put all the focus on doing the hardest possible moves.  While limit bouldering sessions are certainly important for building power, they do not allow you to do a larger volume of [...]

By | 2017-11-04T12:03:18+00:00 November 4th, 2017|0 Comments