About Matt Pincus

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So far Matt Pincus has created 509 blog entries.

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk: Cellar Training Culture in the UK

In most cities around the US, modern climbing gyms are opening left and right. These gyms boast tens of thousands of square feet of climbing terrain, training areas, weight rooms, yoga studios, and are even clean and well-lit. Essentially, they [...]

By | 2018-11-26T19:38:22+00:00 November 26th, 2018|3 Comments

Paige Claassen: How I Trained for Algorithm 5.14d

Paige Claassen is a badass. Period. Having now climbed up to 5.14d/9a sport routes, what can the rest of us really learn from Paige and how she trained to climb her first 5.14d, Algorithm? The answer is A LOT. Today [...]

By | 2018-11-09T07:12:58+00:00 November 13th, 2018|1 Comment

Sam Elias: Level Up Your Mental Game – 6 Books

It's easy to say a lot of climbing is mental. However, improving your mental game isn't as easy or straightforward. Just like training your fingers or improving your technique, improving your mental game takes deliberate and consistent hard work. What [...]

By | 2018-10-17T15:08:16+00:00 October 18th, 2018|1 Comment

Alex Stiger: How I Trained for Tomb Raider 5.13d

Our main goal with the How I Trained For series is to showcase how actual climbers trained to complete their goals. Everyone has different strengths and weaknesses. This means everyone has different training needs, and successful training programs reflect these individual concerns. Additionally, [...]

By | 2018-10-03T11:18:08+00:00 October 4th, 2018|7 Comments

Quantifying Isometrics Part 2: Program Auto-Regulation and Its Implications on Finger Training

A few months back, Dr. Tyler Nelson, a sports scientist and climber who owns a chiropractic sports medicine clinic and strength and conditioning business in Salt Lake City, wrote an article that covered the use of isometrics in training for [...]

By | 2018-09-12T18:33:22+00:00 September 12th, 2018|1 Comment

Brian Suntay: How I Trained for a Successful Sport Climbing Season

Training programs may look great on paper, but people seldom follow them exactly. Instead, their training changes to reflect their schedule, goals, and life commitments. That's why we're starting a series here at TrainingBeta where real climbers share how they actually [...]

By | 2018-08-21T09:35:08+00:00 August 21st, 2018|0 Comments

Climb Strong: Foundation Strength

We all know that getting stronger is an important part of improving climbing performance. However, many periodized programs give us the idea that we should only work on strength during certain blocks of our training. According to Steve Bechtel of [...]

By | 2018-08-09T08:53:38+00:00 August 9th, 2018|0 Comments

Moon Climbing: 6 Shoulder Stability Exercises

Because of the increase in shoulder injuries, climbers are really concerned with shoulder injury prevention. To give you some ideas about how to incorporate shoulder stability work into your training, here's an article from Moon Climbing where British climber Olivia [...]

By | 2018-08-08T10:45:31+00:00 August 7th, 2018|1 Comment