With all the talk in the training community about injury prevention, it can seem like overuse injuries are the inevitable outcome of hard climbing and training. However, this attitude is missing the most important part of injury prevention and that's [...]
When it comes to climbing and especially to training, climbers are spending more and more of their time climbing in indoor gyms. While gyms are the perfect place to hone your skills, there are some important differences between indoor and [...]
Neely has been putting out TrainingBeta Podcasts now for years and they are full of all kinds of amazing training information from some of the top climbers and trainers out there. She is even up to 78 episodes and counting! [...]
Training endurance seems pretty simple. Just climb until you are pumped silly and repeat right? While this approach can definitely work, how can you be sure you are actually reaching your maximum pump level? Did you fall because you truly [...]
If you have ever been injured, you know that one of the most frustrating parts is not knowing if you are gaining strength and progressing in your recovery. The reason for this is that it can be very difficult to [...]
Training guru and author of the Rock Climbers Training Manual Mark Anderson recently turned 40 (happy birthday from TrainingBeta!). To celebrate, Mark wrote a blog post in which he outlined 40 climbing lessons he's learned during his year involved in [...]
For bouldering, strength and power are king and one of the best tools for training climbing specific power is the campus board. However, while the campus board is definitely a powerful tool it is often misused. Not only will this [...]
Climbing is first and foremost a skill sport. No amount of strength or power is going to get you up difficult routes and boulders if you don't know how to move properly and have good climbing technique. However, working on [...]