About Matt Pincus

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So far Matt Pincus has created 300 blog entries.

The 7 Best Recovery Tools for Climbers

With all of the increased emphasis on training for climbing, it's easy to forget that training isn't when we get stronger.  We actually get stronger when we recover from the abuse of training and climbing.  As a result, climbers looking [...]

By | February 26th, 2017|0 Comments

Supplements for Climbing

In the greater fitness world, workout and dietary supplements are extremely popular as they promise to improve exercise performance, help you make bigger gains, and recover faster.  The use of supplements for climbing isn't as widespread or as big a [...]

By | February 25th, 2017|0 Comments

Wrist Pain and Climbing

An unfortunate reality in climbing is that it puts a lot of strain on our bodies which means there are lots of ways for us to injure ourselves.  While finger, elbow, and shoulder injuries are the most common in climbers, [...]

By | February 22nd, 2017|0 Comments

Steve Bechtel – Hangboarding for the Longterm

One thing that has been scientifically proven is that improved finger strength correlates directly to improved climbing performance.  With our current understanding of how to train for rock climbing just barely entering the scientific arena, having such a direct correlation [...]

By | February 19th, 2017|0 Comments

Bouldering Open Nationals Interviews 2017

In case you missed it, the 2017 US Bouldering Open Nationals were held February 3rd and 4th at the Salt Palace Convention Center in Salt Lake City, UT.  All the competitors put on an amazing show that finished with Alex [...]

By | February 18th, 2017|0 Comments

Hang Right – Part II: Elbow Pain in Climbers

In a recent TrainingBeta Podcast episode, Neely spoke with climber and physical therapist Esther Smith specifically about elbow pain.  In their talk, they covered exactly what can cause elbow pain, what climbers can do to treat their conditions, and what [...]

By | February 17th, 2017|0 Comments

Training Women For Upper-Body and Core Strength

For many female climbers, upper-body and core strength can be weaknesses that affect climbing performance.  Obviously, with climbing being a sport that revolves around strength to weight ratio, addressing any weaknesses in upper-body and core strength is important for any [...]

By | February 15th, 2017|3 Comments

Lattice Training: Power Endurance

When it comes to route climbing, one of the most important attributes to train is power endurance.  Having good power endurance (PE) allows you to make it through long sections of difficult climbing and make it to the next rest [...]

By | February 12th, 2017|0 Comments