About Matt Pincus

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So far Matt Pincus has created 506 blog entries.

Alex Stiger: How I Trained for Tomb Raider 5.13d

Our main goal with the How I Trained For series is to showcase how actual climbers trained to complete their goals. Everyone has different strengths and weaknesses. This means everyone has different training needs, and successful training programs reflect these individual concerns. Additionally, [...]

By | 2018-10-03T11:18:08+00:00 October 4th, 2018|6 Comments

Quantifying Isometrics Part 2: Program Auto-Regulation and Its Implications on Finger Training

A few months back, Dr. Tyler Nelson, a sports scientist and climber who owns a chiropractic sports medicine clinic and strength and conditioning business in Salt Lake City, wrote an article that covered the use of isometrics in training for [...]

By | 2018-09-12T18:33:22+00:00 September 12th, 2018|1 Comment

Brian Suntay: How I Trained for a Successful Sport Climbing Season

Training programs may look great on paper, but people seldom follow them exactly. Instead, their training changes to reflect their schedule, goals, and life commitments. That's why we're starting a series here at TrainingBeta where real climbers share how they actually [...]

By | 2018-08-21T09:35:08+00:00 August 21st, 2018|0 Comments

Climb Strong: Foundation Strength

We all know that getting stronger is an important part of improving climbing performance. However, many periodized programs give us the idea that we should only work on strength during certain blocks of our training. According to Steve Bechtel of [...]

By | 2018-08-09T08:53:38+00:00 August 9th, 2018|0 Comments

Moon Climbing: 6 Shoulder Stability Exercises

Because of the increase in shoulder injuries, climbers are really concerned with shoulder injury prevention. To give you some ideas about how to incorporate shoulder stability work into your training, here's an article from Moon Climbing where British climber Olivia [...]

By | 2018-08-08T10:45:31+00:00 August 7th, 2018|1 Comment

Matt Pincus: Training While Trying to Send

You've trained hard for months, you're feeling strong, and conditions are prime on your project. It's time to send! But wait?!?!?!?!?! You've got a job and commitments outside of climbing. This means you can only get to your project on [...]

By | 2018-08-01T23:55:50+00:00 August 1st, 2018|0 Comments

Rock and Ice: Michaela Kiersch on Setting Goals

It's easy to look at the big accomplishments of the climbing elite and think that these sends just happened because of how strong and talented these athletes are. However, this view not only glosses over all the hard work these climbers [...]

By | 2018-07-23T14:36:58+00:00 July 24th, 2018|0 Comments

Matt Pincus: Principles of Core Training

You've been in the gym for hours. Your fingers are stiff. Your skin hurts. Despite all of this you want to do more. After all, you want to get stronger and training is supposed to be hard. So what do you [...]

By | 2018-07-17T10:03:53+00:00 July 17th, 2018|0 Comments