About Matt Pincus

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So far Matt Pincus has created 521 blog entries.

Leif Gasch: How I Trained for Less Than Zero 5.14b

With training, it's easy to get obsessed with the idea of perfect. We all want to know what the perfect hangboard protocol is, what the perfect periodization scheme is, or what perfect set of supplemental exercises will let us reach [...]

By |2019-06-11T09:46:39+00:00June 11th, 2019|2 Comments

Transcript Highlight: The Access Fund on How We Can All Protect Our Climbing Areas

The spring and summer climbing season is upon us! This means it's time for long days, road trips, camping, and generally getting outside to enjoy the wild places we love. With that said, all of us here at TrainingBeta thought [...]

By |2019-05-30T08:47:16+00:00May 30th, 2019|0 Comments

Dr. Tyler Nelson: Finger Training with Blood Flow Restriction

Training effectively always requires walking the fine line between enough training to get the stimulus required to improve and not overdoing it, which can quickly undermine your efforts and lead to injury. One of the main issues for climbers trying [...]

By |2019-05-23T08:08:57+00:00May 23rd, 2019|1 Comment

Transcript Highlight: Steve Bechtel on New Endurance Training Methods

You're above your bolt gunning for the chains on your project. But wait! Your forearms are getting pumped, your elbows start to chicken wing, you start to panic, and before you know it your hanging from the end of your [...]

By |2019-04-17T13:42:04+00:00April 17th, 2019|0 Comments

Marina Inoue: How I Trained for Dark Age V11

With training, it's easy to think that more is always the answer - more exercises, more sessions, and more training tools. The reality though is that just "more" is seldom the way forward. Well thought-out training plans don't necessarily require complex [...]

By |2019-03-29T17:08:38+00:00March 28th, 2019|0 Comments

Transcript Highlight: Dr. Jared Vagy on The Frequency of Injury Prevention Exercises

Injuries suck. Not only do they prevent us from climbing in the short term, but they de-rail long term progress by forcing us to spend seasons on the couch rather than at the crag becoming better and stronger climbers. It's [...]

By |2019-03-29T17:11:19+00:00March 21st, 2019|1 Comment

Brannon Frank: Max Isometrics and Their Application for Youth Coaches

The use of isometrics in climbing training is growing. While they've been common practice in finger strength training for a long time (think hangboarding), the use of max isometrics in a variety of strength training modalities is becoming more diverse [...]

By |2019-03-29T17:17:59+00:00March 14th, 2019|0 Comments

Danny Robertson: How I Train for Limit Sport Climbs

Projecting limit sport climbs is a process. It's a process with lots of pitfalls along the way. Many climbers sabotage themselves both on the route and in their preparation beforehand, but ultimately, there's an art to projecting. We've done our best [...]

By |2019-03-29T17:21:26+00:00February 21st, 2019|2 Comments