About Matt Pincus

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So far Matt Pincus has created 531 blog entries.

Matt Pincus: Projecting Principles

Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson spent seven years working on the Dawn Wall. Chris Sharma needed a multi-season campaign to send Jumbo Love. Nalle Hukkataival spent more than 80 sessions over four years to climb Burden of Dreams V17. Climbing [...]

By |2019-10-01T10:51:20+00:00October 1st, 2019|0 Comments

Transcript Highlight: Dr. Chris Heilman on Starting with the Breath

Most top climbers agree that their mindset is one of the most important factors influencing their performance. Whether they are sport climbers, boulders, or comp climbers, these athletes agree that they can't put forth their best efforts unless they have [...]

By |2019-09-12T09:09:37+00:00September 12th, 2019|0 Comments

Dan Mirsky: How I Trained for Fat Camp

Dan Mirsky is one of the most passionate and driven climbers I know. When it comes to putting his head down and working his projects, Dan is as dedicated as they come. Dan is also calculated and driven with his [...]

By |2019-09-12T16:05:30+00:00September 4th, 2019|1 Comment

The Knowledge Quest with Sam Elias and Esther Smith

Climbing injuries happen. While we can be proactive with our prevention and follow a well-designed training program, if you climb long enough, you're going to deal with an injury. Whether it's a shoulder, elbow, or finger injury, you're going to [...]

By |2019-08-29T12:55:48+00:00August 29th, 2019|0 Comments

Dr. Tyler Nelson: The “Simplest” Finger Training Program

The idea that finger strength is an important factor in climbing performance is a well-established fact. As a community, we've also accepted certain assumptions about training finger strength, including that hanging from a hangboard is the most effective way to [...]

By |2019-08-15T09:01:41+00:00August 15th, 2019|7 Comments

John Kettle: 6 Ways to Lengthen Your Reach

Not long ago we published an article by Neely about how she trains to compensate for being short. The response was great and it clearly seems like a topic many people are interested in and need help with. Today, we [...]

By |2019-08-06T08:49:12+00:00August 6th, 2019|1 Comment

Transcript Highlight: Jonathan Siegrist on Trying Hard

Jonathan Siegrist is a badass. His resume of hard routes speaks for itself and, with several 9b/5.15b sends under his belt, he's in an exclusive club of the world's best rock climbers. For the rest of us, when you see [...]

By |2019-07-25T09:03:34+00:00July 25th, 2019|0 Comments

Esther Smith and BD Beta Videos

With all the information and videos out there, it can be hard to separate the good advice from the bad. Our best advice for the self-coached climber is to be critical of the source and heed the advice of true [...]

By |2019-07-18T11:57:19+00:00July 18th, 2019|0 Comments