About Matt Pincus

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So far Matt Pincus has created 527 blog entries.

Dr. Tyler Nelson: The “Simplest” Finger Training Program

The idea that finger strength is an important factor in climbing performance is a well-established fact. As a community, we've also accepted certain assumptions about training finger strength, including that hanging from a hangboard is the most effective way to [...]

By |2019-08-15T09:01:41+00:00August 15th, 2019|2 Comments

John Kettle: 6 Ways to Lengthen Your Reach

Not long ago we published an article by Neely about how she trains to compensate for being short. The response was great and it clearly seems like a topic many people are interested in and need help with. Today, we [...]

By |2019-08-06T08:49:12+00:00August 6th, 2019|0 Comments

Transcript Highlight: Jonathan Siegrist on Trying Hard

Jonathan Siegrist is a badass. His resume of hard routes speaks for itself and, with several 9b/5.15b sends under his belt, he's in an exclusive club of the world's best rock climbers. For the rest of us, when you see [...]

By |2019-07-25T09:03:34+00:00July 25th, 2019|0 Comments

Esther Smith and BD Beta Videos

With all the information and videos out there, it can be hard to separate the good advice from the bad. Our best advice for the self-coached climber is to be critical of the source and heed the advice of true [...]

By |2019-07-18T11:57:19+00:00July 18th, 2019|0 Comments

Dan Mirsky: Gnarly Nutrition Performance Greens Review

With all the sports supplements on the market these days designed to help performance, it's pretty confusing to sort out what is the right one to use in the right situation. Should I be taking creatine even though I don't [...]

By |2019-07-02T07:47:58+00:00July 2nd, 2019|0 Comments

Transcript Highlight: Brianna Greene and How Dealing with Fear Helped Her Climb 5.12a

Dealing with fear is part of climbing. Unfortunately, a failure to manage fear is one of the things that holds peoples' climbing back the most. You can train hard, get stronger fingers, and have world-class endurance, but if you aren't [...]

By |2019-06-27T11:22:48+00:00June 27th, 2019|0 Comments

Leif Gasch: How I Trained for Less Than Zero 5.14b

With training, it's easy to get obsessed with the idea of perfect. We all want to know what the perfect hangboard protocol is, what the perfect periodization scheme is, or what perfect set of supplemental exercises will let us reach [...]

By |2019-06-11T09:46:39+00:00June 11th, 2019|2 Comments

Transcript Highlight: The Access Fund on How We Can All Protect Our Climbing Areas

The spring and summer climbing season is upon us! This means it's time for long days, road trips, camping, and generally getting outside to enjoy the wild places we love. With that said, all of us here at TrainingBeta thought [...]

By |2019-05-30T08:47:16+00:00May 30th, 2019|0 Comments