Matt Pincus: Fitting Everything In

A big question I get from my athletes is about fitting everything into their training schedule. After all, there are only so many hours in the week and you need rest days so fitting everything in can be difficult. However, we [...]

By | 2018-05-23T14:04:30+00:00 May 24th, 2018|0 Comments

Gnarly Nutrition Product Review

Athletes in almost all major sports use supplements to help them meet their nutritional needs. However, many climbers look at supplements with skepticism. We worry that supplements will either make us bulk up like bodybuilders or that they are simply a [...]

By | 2018-04-09T16:42:15+00:00 April 11th, 2018|0 Comments

Training with an Injury

In the last two years, I've broken my leg and had to take 3-months off climbing due to a finger injury. Currently, I feel like the thing I'm best at is getting back into good climbing form after injuries. However, [...]

By | 2018-02-07T12:30:31+00:00 February 7th, 2018|0 Comments

Comparing Hangboard Protocols

Hangboards are the best way to train finger strength. When used properly, they are extremely safe and let us fine tune the intensity of our workouts. However, for climbers new to training on a fingerboard, the details of different hangboard protocols [...]

By | 2018-01-05T08:48:14+00:00 January 5th, 2018|4 Comments

How to Train Power without a Campus Board

One of the most common questions we get here at TrainingBeta is what people should substitute into their training when they don't have access to a campus board. Before we talk about what other types of training can take the place [...]

By | 2017-12-20T09:01:44+00:00 December 20th, 2017|0 Comments

Online Personal Climbing Training with Matt Pincus

We are excited to announce that we are now offering online personal climbing coaching with Matt Pincus! Matt has been a part of TrainingBeta for the past three years as our Content Manager and Social Media Manager, and he's excited to [...]

By | 2017-10-17T09:13:32+00:00 October 17th, 2017|0 Comments

Send SLIM Knee Pad Review

Send Climbing knee pads?!?!?!??!?!? I know what you're thinking: It's summer and not even the greatest knee pad ever designed could get me up my projects in the inferno that is currently Hueco Tanks. The Send SLIM pad [...]

By | 2017-09-18T06:35:48+00:00 July 17th, 2017|0 Comments

From Bouldering to Route Climbing Part 2: Training Details

Matt Pincus here today with the next installment in my series of how I transitioned from exclusively bouldering to route climbing as well. This one is all about the changes I made to my training to address the physical limitations that [...]

By | 2017-09-18T06:36:50+00:00 May 9th, 2017|0 Comments