Matt Pincus: Top 3 Training Lessons I Learned in 2019

One of my favorite parts of being a climbing coach is the tremendous amount of continual learning that's part of the job. Reading and researching climbing training are definitely huge sources of knowledge, but there's no substitute for insights I [...]

By |2020-01-15T12:28:56+00:00January 8th, 2020|0 Comments

Matt Pincus: 6 Reasons Your Training Isn’t Working

When I first started coaching climbers, I thought it would be all about the nuts and bolts of training program design. I really thought that most of what I was going to be doing was guiding climbers through the details [...]

By |2019-12-17T11:00:37+00:00November 26th, 2019|1 Comment

Matt Pincus: Projecting Principles

Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson spent seven years working on the Dawn Wall. Chris Sharma needed a multi-season campaign to send Jumbo Love. Nalle Hukkataival spent more than 80 sessions over four years to climb Burden of Dreams V17. Climbing [...]

By |2019-12-17T11:03:28+00:00October 1st, 2019|0 Comments

Matt Pincus: Training While Trying to Send

You've trained hard for months, you're feeling strong, and conditions are prime on your project. It's time to send! But wait?!?!?!?!?! You've got a job and commitments outside of climbing. This means you can only get to your project on [...]

By |2018-08-01T23:55:50+00:00August 1st, 2018|0 Comments

Matt Pincus: Principles of Core Training

You've been in the gym for hours. Your fingers are stiff. Your skin hurts. Despite all of this you want to do more. After all, you want to get stronger and training is supposed to be hard. So what do you [...]

By |2019-10-31T10:44:05+00:00July 17th, 2018|0 Comments

Matt Pincus: 4 Keys to Limit Bouldering

A staple of most training programs is that they contain some kind of bouldering. Even programs designed for route climbers typically have a bouldering component. The reason for this is that bouldering is a simple and efficient way to train strength [...]

By |2018-05-31T09:27:05+00:00May 31st, 2018|0 Comments