Matt Pincus: Projecting Principles

Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson spent seven years working on the Dawn Wall. Chris Sharma needed a multi-season campaign to send Jumbo Love. Nalle Hukkataival spent more than 80 sessions over four years to climb Burden of Dreams V17. Climbing [...]

By |2019-10-01T10:51:20+00:00October 1st, 2019|0 Comments

Matt Pincus: Training While Trying to Send

You've trained hard for months, you're feeling strong, and conditions are prime on your project. It's time to send! But wait?!?!?!?!?! You've got a job and commitments outside of climbing. This means you can only get to your project on [...]

By |2018-08-01T23:55:50+00:00August 1st, 2018|0 Comments

Matt Pincus: Principles of Core Training

You've been in the gym for hours. Your fingers are stiff. Your skin hurts. Despite all of this you want to do more. After all, you want to get stronger and training is supposed to be hard. So what do you [...]

By |2019-10-31T10:44:05+00:00July 17th, 2018|0 Comments

Matt Pincus: 4 Keys to Limit Bouldering

A staple of most training programs is that they contain some kind of bouldering. Even programs designed for route climbers typically have a bouldering component. The reason for this is that bouldering is a simple and efficient way to train strength [...]

By |2018-05-31T09:27:05+00:00May 31st, 2018|0 Comments

Matt Pincus: Fitting Everything In

A big question I get from my athletes is about fitting everything into their training schedule. After all, there are only so many hours in the week and you need rest days so fitting everything in can be difficult. However, we [...]

By |2019-02-10T12:50:34+00:00May 24th, 2018|1 Comment

Gnarly Nutrition Product Review

Athletes in almost all major sports use supplements to help them meet their nutritional needs. However, many climbers look at supplements with skepticism. We worry that supplements will either make us bulk up like bodybuilders or that they are simply a [...]

By |2018-04-09T16:42:15+00:00April 11th, 2018|1 Comment

Training with an Injury

In the last two years, I've broken my leg and had to take 3-months off climbing due to a finger injury. Currently, I feel like the thing I'm best at is getting back into good climbing form after injuries. However, [...]

By |2019-11-01T22:24:55+00:00February 7th, 2018|1 Comment

Comparing Hangboard Protocols

Hangboards are the best way to train finger strength. When used properly, they are extremely safe and let us fine tune the intensity of our workouts. However, for climbers new to training on a fingerboard, the details of different hangboard protocols [...]

By |2018-01-05T08:48:14+00:00January 5th, 2018|4 Comments