Dr. Tyler Nelson: The “Simplest” Finger Training Program

The idea that finger strength is an important factor in climbing performance is a well-established fact. As a community, we've also accepted certain assumptions about training finger strength, including that hanging from a hangboard is the most effective way to [...]

By |2020-03-17T15:03:37+00:00August 15th, 2019|13 Comments

John Kettle: 6 Ways to Lengthen Your Reach

Not long ago we published an article by Neely about how she trains to compensate for being short. The response was great and it clearly seems like a topic many people are interested in and need help with. Today, we [...]

By |2020-02-13T13:11:05+00:00August 6th, 2019|1 Comment

Climb Strong: Foundation Strength

We all know that getting stronger is an important part of improving climbing performance. However, many periodized programs give us the idea that we should only work on strength during certain blocks of our training. According to Steve Bechtel of [...]

By |2018-12-24T09:39:08+00:00August 9th, 2018|0 Comments

Matt Pincus: Principles of Core Training

You've been in the gym for hours. Your fingers are stiff. Your skin hurts. Despite all of this you want to do more. After all, you want to get stronger and training is supposed to be hard. So what do you [...]

By |2019-10-31T10:44:05+00:00July 17th, 2018|0 Comments

Matt Pincus: 4 Keys to Limit Bouldering

A staple of most training programs is that they contain some kind of bouldering. Even programs designed for route climbers typically have a bouldering component. The reason for this is that bouldering is a simple and efficient way to train strength [...]

By |2018-05-31T09:27:05+00:00May 31st, 2018|0 Comments

Top 5 Bouldering Articles

Bouldering: it sounds so simple. Grab your shoes, some chalk, and a crashpad and you're good to go. Sure, you can have a fun and enjoyable bouldering session with just those three things. However, things get much more complicated when [...]

By |2018-05-14T14:34:20+00:00May 15th, 2018|0 Comments