The Project Magazine – Malcolm Smith Interview

Training for climbing may seem like the hot new thing right now.  However, while training may be more popular than ever, there have been people systematically training with incredible amounts of discipline for decades.  While they didn't have the beautiful [...]

By | March 29th, 2017|0 Comments

Transitioning from Bouldering to Sport Climbing: 5.9 to 5.14

It's Neely here, and today I have the distinct privilege of introducing TrainingBeta's content manager, Matt Pincus, as our featured author of this article. Matt is a psyched and accomplished climber, and he's put a lot of time and thought [...]

By | March 22nd, 2017|1 Comment

FrictionLabs Features Dan Mirsky: Fundamentals of Training for Climbing

Here's an article from the FrictionLabs blog by climber, coach, and friend of TrainingBeta Dan Mirsky, in which he outlines the areas he feels any successful climbing training program should center upon. As climbers, we are always looking for an edge to [...]

By | March 3rd, 2017|0 Comments

Steve Bechtel – Hangboarding for the Longterm

One thing that has been scientifically proven is that improved finger strength correlates directly to improved climbing performance.  With our current understanding of how to train for rock climbing just barely entering the scientific arena, having such a direct correlation [...]

By | February 19th, 2017|0 Comments

Bouldering Open Nationals Interviews 2017

In case you missed it, the 2017 US Bouldering Open Nationals were held February 3rd and 4th at the Salt Palace Convention Center in Salt Lake City, UT.  All the competitors put on an amazing show that finished with Alex [...]

By | February 18th, 2017|0 Comments

Training Women For Upper-Body and Core Strength

For many female climbers, upper-body and core strength can be weaknesses that affect climbing performance.  Obviously, with climbing being a sport that revolves around strength to weight ratio, addressing any weaknesses in upper-body and core strength is important for any [...]

By | February 15th, 2017|3 Comments

New Finger Training Programs!

One thing we've been missing from our arsenal of training tools has been a clear, concise training program for JUST training finger strength. While our other programs have finger training in them, we needed something that was more focused. If [...]

By | February 9th, 2017|0 Comments

Increasing Your Power with Climbing Magazine

Increasing your power level is one of the hardest to get right and most intense forms of climbing training.  However, while strength is still the basis of hard rock climbing, power is an extremely important feature that must be trained. [...]

By | February 8th, 2017|0 Comments