3 Technique Habits that Undermine Your Performance – Part Two

Today, we have the second installment of an article series about technique written by UK based climber, coach, and author John Kettle. John was on the TrainingBeta Podcast where he talked about how improving his movement skills helped him break a [...]

2021-03-04T20:38:20-07:00December 16th, 2020|Categories: Bouldering Strength And Power, Uncategorized, Workouts|

Dr. Tyler Nelson: The “Simplest” Finger Training Program

Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and [...]

2021-06-11T16:18:34-06:00August 15th, 2019|Categories: Bouldering Strength And Power, Training Tips, Tyler Nelson|

John Kettle: 6 Ways to Lengthen Your Reach

Not long ago we published an article by Neely about how she trains to compensate for being short. The response was great and it clearly seems like a topic many people are interested in and need help with. Today, we [...]

2020-02-13T13:11:05-07:00August 6th, 2019|Categories: Bouldering Strength And Power, Training Tips|

Climb Strong: Foundation Strength

We all know that getting stronger is an important part of improving climbing performance. However, many periodized programs give us the idea that we should only work on strength during certain blocks of our training. According to Steve Bechtel of [...]

2018-12-24T09:39:08-07:00August 9th, 2018|Categories: Bouldering Strength And Power, Training Tips|

Matt Pincus: Principles of Core Training

You've been in the gym for hours. Your fingers are stiff. Your skin hurts. Despite all of this you want to do more. After all, you want to get stronger and training is supposed to be hard. So what do you [...]

2019-10-31T10:44:05-06:00July 17th, 2018|Categories: Bouldering Strength And Power, Pincus Posts, Training Tips|

Matt Pincus: 4 Keys to Limit Bouldering

A staple of most training programs is that they contain some kind of bouldering. Even programs designed for route climbers typically have a bouldering component. The reason for this is that bouldering is a simple and efficient way to train strength [...]

2018-05-31T09:27:05-06:00May 31st, 2018|Categories: Bouldering Strength And Power, Pincus Posts, Training Tips|
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