Rock and Ice: Campus-Board Fundamentals

When used properly, the campus-board is one the best tools we have available for developing climbing specific power.  However, campus-boards are also the training tool that is most commonly used incorrectly.  If you are going to campus, taking the time [...]

By | 2017-11-17T11:26:42+00:00 November 17th, 2017|0 Comments

Evening Sends – 5 Minute Fingers

Here at TrainingBeta, we get asked a lot, "What's the best hangboard workout?"  Our answer, though, probably isn't what most people are looking for.  Sure, different hangboard protocols have different benefits and drawbacks, but, ultimately, the "best hangboard workout" is the [...]

By | 2017-11-16T17:53:49+00:00 November 13th, 2017|0 Comments

Bouldering Training: Free Volume Workout

A new trend in training for bouldering is to put all the focus on doing the hardest possible moves.  While limit bouldering sessions are certainly important for building power, they do not allow you to do a larger volume of [...]

By | 2017-11-04T12:03:18+00:00 November 4th, 2017|0 Comments

Jonathan Siegrist – How Bouldering Has Helped his Sport Climbing

In climbing, most of us have our preferred style whether its sport climbing, trad climbing, or bouldering.  Many climbers even end up specializing and climbing within one of these disciplines almost exclusively. Obviously, there is nothing wrong with this kind [...]

By | 2017-10-18T10:35:04+00:00 October 18th, 2017|0 Comments

Online Personal Climbing Training with Matt Pincus

We are excited to announce that we are now offering online personal climbing coaching with Matt Pincus! Matt has been a part of TrainingBeta for the past three years as our Content Manager and Social Media Manager, and he's excited to [...]

By | 2017-10-17T09:13:32+00:00 October 17th, 2017|0 Comments

FrictionLabs: Intro to Campus Board Training

Things like the campus board, the fingerboard, and systems walls are training tools.  As with all tools, they only work if they are used properly. To help you learn exactly what the campus board is and how to use it [...]

By | 2017-10-02T12:30:40+00:00 October 1st, 2017|0 Comments

Bouldering Training: Free Recovery Workout

A huge part of successfully training for climbing is discipline.  Most of the time we think about that as the discipline to head into the gym and consistently try our hardest.  While this is obviously the most important part of [...]

By | 2017-09-26T12:15:39+00:00 September 24th, 2017|0 Comments

Climb Strong: Variations on Integrated Strength

When most of us think about training strength for climbing, the first thing that comes to mind is hangboarding for finger strength.  But what about core strength? What about shoulder stability? How about pulling power? And don't forget about training [...]

By | 2017-09-22T12:53:30+00:00 September 22nd, 2017|0 Comments