Dr. Tyler Nelson: The “Simplest” Finger Training Program

The idea that finger strength is an important factor in climbing performance is a well-established fact. As a community, we've also accepted certain assumptions about training finger strength, including that hanging from a hangboard is the most effective way to [...]

By |2020-03-17T15:03:37+00:00August 15th, 2019|13 Comments

Dr. Tyler Nelson: Finger Training with Blood Flow Restriction

Training effectively always requires walking the fine line between enough training to get the stimulus required to improve and not overdoing it, which can quickly undermine your efforts and lead to injury. One of the main issues for climbers trying [...]

By |2019-05-23T08:08:57+00:00May 23rd, 2019|1 Comment

Quantifying Isometrics Part 2: Program Auto-Regulation and Its Implications on Finger Training

A few months back, Dr. Tyler Nelson, a sports scientist and climber who owns a chiropractic sports medicine clinic and strength and conditioning business in Salt Lake City, wrote an article that covered the use of isometrics in training for [...]

By |2018-09-12T18:33:22+00:00September 12th, 2018|1 Comment