Rock and Ice: Michaela Kiersch on Setting Goals

It's easy to look at the big accomplishments of the climbing elite and think that these sends just happened because of how strong and talented these athletes are. However, this view not only glosses over all the hard work these climbers [...]

By | 2018-07-23T14:36:58+00:00 July 24th, 2018|0 Comments

Transcript Highlight: Roane Van Voorst and Hazel Findlay on Exercising the “Fear Muscle”

Two weeks ago, I (Matt Pincus) shared an excerpt from the TrainingBeta Podcast episode with Dutch climber and researcher Roane Van Voorst about how Lynn Hill deals with fear. The episode itself is about Van Voorst's book Fear! in which she interviews top [...]

By | 2018-06-03T14:17:58+00:00 June 3rd, 2018|0 Comments

Rock and Ice: Steve House on Skill vs Strength Sessions

The goal of training should be to get better at rock climbing. If it's not making you better then what's the point in doing it. Sure that sounds nice and simple, but things get more complicated when we factor in [...]

By | 2018-05-07T08:58:28+00:00 May 7th, 2018|0 Comments

The Project Magazine: Joe Kinder Profile

Joe Kinder is a climber who needs no introduction. He has a been a top climber for decades. He has repeated hard sport routes and has developed routes in numerous areas around the world. Additionally, with Jonathan Siegrist's recent ascent [...]

By | 2018-04-09T16:41:31+00:00 April 10th, 2018|0 Comments

Natasha Barnes: Concepts for Managing Training Stress in Climbing

At this point, we should all know that improving at climbing requires us to train hard, but also give ourselves enough time to recover from the stress of that training. Chiropractor and sports injury rehabilitation specialist Natasha Barnes recently wrote an article [...]

By | 2018-03-28T09:22:52+00:00 March 28th, 2018|0 Comments

Michaela Tracy: Training – Enough is Enough

Recently we posted an article by Natasha Barnes about the stress/recovery/adaptation cycle and its role in training for climbing. The gist of Natasha's article is that if we want our training to make us stronger, we need to give our [...]

By | 2018-03-19T11:11:36+00:00 March 19th, 2018|1 Comment

Adam Ondra Silence Video and Performance Analysis

This past September, Adam Ondra established the world's first 5.15d/9c when he climbed Silence in Flatanger, Norway. Establishing the hardest route in the world is newsworthy simply because of the difficulty. However, it's even more valuable for us to look [...]

By | 2018-02-28T08:38:14+00:00 February 28th, 2018|0 Comments

Evening Sends: How Paige Claassen Sent Her Proj With Only 1 Hour Per Day

As I've sure you've seen by now, Paige Claassen recently sent Necessary Evil 5.14c. When Chris Sharma first established Necessary Evil in 1997, it was the hardest route in the country. In the 21 years since the first ascent, Necessary Evil [...]

By | 2018-02-18T08:22:26+00:00 February 18th, 2018|1 Comment