Route Setting to Prevent Injury with Chris Danielson

When it comes to climbing and especially to training, climbers are spending more and more of their time climbing in indoor gyms.  While gyms are the perfect place to hone your skills, there are some important differences between indoor and [...]

By | May 19th, 2017|0 Comments

Mark Anderson – 40 Climbing Lessons

Training guru and author of the Rock Climbers Training Manual Mark Anderson recently turned 40 (happy birthday from TrainingBeta!).  To celebrate, Mark wrote a blog post in which he outlined 40 climbing lessons he's learned during his year involved in [...]

By | May 11th, 2017|0 Comments

Jonathan Siegrist Interview – Three 5.15s in Three Weeks

Training for rock climbing can be addictive: put in some hard training work, see some gains, send your project. This is the process that we all want and is the reason we are willing to suffer through training sessions that [...]

By | April 29th, 2017|0 Comments

The Project Magazine – Malcolm Smith Interview

Training for climbing may seem like the hot new thing right now.  However, while training may be more popular than ever, there have been people systematically training with incredible amounts of discipline for decades.  While they didn't have the beautiful [...]

By | March 29th, 2017|0 Comments

Rock and Ice – Margo Hayes on Sending La Rambla 5.15a

On February 26th, Margo Hayes successfully reappointed the route La Rambla in Siurana, Spain.  This ascent was historic in that it marked the first ascent by a woman of a confirmed 5.15a/9a+ route.  While TrainingBeta is not usually a climbing news [...]

By | March 21st, 2017|0 Comments

Evening Sends: Shauna Coxsey and Leah Crane

On a fundamental level climbing is a selfish sport.  This is why it was extremely refreshing to read the newest Evening Sends article by Andrew Bisharat highlighting the training partnership between Shauna Coxsey and Leah Crane. Shauna and Leah are British [...]

By | March 4th, 2017|0 Comments

Bouldering Open Nationals Interviews 2017

In case you missed it, the 2017 US Bouldering Open Nationals were held February 3rd and 4th at the Salt Palace Convention Center in Salt Lake City, UT.  All the competitors put on an amazing show that finished with Alex [...]

By | February 18th, 2017|0 Comments

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk: So Much Training…

If you have made your way to this blog, then you are clearly interested in training and trying to get stronger at climbing.  However, what are you actually training for?  Do you have a specific goal or are you simply [...]

By | February 3rd, 2017|0 Comments