The Project Magazine – Malcolm Smith Interview

Training for climbing may seem like the hot new thing right now.  However, while training may be more popular than ever, there have been people systematically training with incredible amounts of discipline for decades.  While they didn't have the beautiful [...]

By | March 29th, 2017|0 Comments

Rock and Ice – Margo Hayes on Sending La Rambla 5.15a

On February 26th, Margo Hayes successfully reappointed the route La Rambla in Siurana, Spain.  This ascent was historic in that it marked the first ascent by a woman of a confirmed 5.15a/9a+ route.  While TrainingBeta is not usually a climbing news [...]

By | March 21st, 2017|0 Comments

Evening Sends: Shauna Coxsey and Leah Crane

On a fundamental level climbing is a selfish sport.  This is why it was extremely refreshing to read the newest Evening Sends article by Andrew Bisharat highlighting the training partnership between Shauna Coxsey and Leah Crane. Shauna and Leah are British [...]

By | March 4th, 2017|0 Comments

Bouldering Open Nationals Interviews 2017

In case you missed it, the 2017 US Bouldering Open Nationals were held February 3rd and 4th at the Salt Palace Convention Center in Salt Lake City, UT.  All the competitors put on an amazing show that finished with Alex [...]

By | February 18th, 2017|0 Comments

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk: So Much Training…

If you have made your way to this blog, then you are clearly interested in training and trying to get stronger at climbing.  However, what are you actually training for?  Do you have a specific goal or are you simply [...]

By | February 3rd, 2017|0 Comments

Mark Anderson Advanced Endurance Training

When it comes to training endurance for long sport routes, one of the most effective strategies is performing power endurance circuits with set rest times.  This kind of high end or advanced endurance training is highly effective as it mimics [...]

By | January 15th, 2017|0 Comments

Mark Anderson on Choosing Shadowboxing

A couple months ago, we posted an article by Mark Anderson, one of the authors of The Rock Climber's Training Manual, about his successful ascent of his multi-season project Shadowboxing in Rifle Colorado.  Mark's ascent was particularly impressive not only [...]

By | December 20th, 2016|0 Comments

The Three Underlying Reasons for Climbing Injuries

Anyone who has trained hard for or taken climbing seriously knows the constant risk of injury.  On TrainingBeta, we have also written extensively about all the antagonist exercises you should be doing to stave off climbing injuries before they happen. [...]

By | November 4th, 2016|0 Comments