Mina Leslie-Wujastyk: Cellar Training Culture in the UK

In most cities around the US, modern climbing gyms are opening left and right. These gyms boast tens of thousands of square feet of climbing terrain, training areas, weight rooms, yoga studios, and are even clean and well-lit. Essentially, they [...]

By | 2018-11-26T19:38:22+00:00 November 26th, 2018|3 Comments

Paige Claassen: How I Trained for Algorithm 5.14d

Paige Claassen is a badass. Period. Having now climbed up to 5.14d/9a sport routes, what can the rest of us really learn from Paige and how she trained to climb her first 5.14d, Algorithm? The answer is A LOT. Today [...]

By | 2018-11-09T07:12:58+00:00 November 13th, 2018|1 Comment

Sam Elias: Level Up Your Mental Game – 6 Books

It's easy to say a lot of climbing is mental. However, improving your mental game isn't as easy or straightforward. Just like training your fingers or improving your technique, improving your mental game takes deliberate and consistent hard work. What [...]

By | 2018-10-17T15:08:16+00:00 October 18th, 2018|1 Comment

Rock and Ice: Michaela Kiersch on Setting Goals

It's easy to look at the big accomplishments of the climbing elite and think that these sends just happened because of how strong and talented these athletes are. However, this view not only glosses over all the hard work these climbers [...]

By | 2018-07-23T14:36:58+00:00 July 24th, 2018|0 Comments

Transcript Highlight: Roane Van Voorst and Hazel Findlay on Exercising the “Fear Muscle”

Two weeks ago, I (Matt Pincus) shared an excerpt from the TrainingBeta Podcast episode with Dutch climber and researcher Roane Van Voorst about how Lynn Hill deals with fear. The episode itself is about Van Voorst's book Fear! in which she interviews top [...]

By | 2018-06-03T14:17:58+00:00 June 3rd, 2018|0 Comments

Rock and Ice: Steve House on Skill vs Strength Sessions

The goal of training should be to get better at rock climbing. If it's not making you better then what's the point in doing it. Sure that sounds nice and simple, but things get more complicated when we factor in [...]

By | 2018-05-07T08:58:28+00:00 May 7th, 2018|0 Comments

The Project Magazine: Joe Kinder Profile

Joe Kinder is a climber who needs no introduction. He has a been a top climber for decades. He has repeated hard sport routes and has developed routes in numerous areas around the world. Additionally, with Jonathan Siegrist's recent ascent [...]

By | 2018-04-09T16:41:31+00:00 April 10th, 2018|0 Comments

Natasha Barnes: Concepts for Managing Training Stress in Climbing

At this point, we should all know that improving at climbing requires us to train hard, but also give ourselves enough time to recover from the stress of that training. Chiropractor and sports injury rehabilitation specialist Natasha Barnes recently wrote an article [...]

By | 2018-03-28T09:22:52+00:00 March 28th, 2018|0 Comments