Neil Gresham: Coming Back From Injury

Injuries happen.  It sucks, but if you climb long enough all the injury prevention in the world isn't going to spare you from the occasional finger injury or other tweak.  This doesn't mean that we shouldn't try to prevent injuries [...]

By | July 25th, 2017|0 Comments

Madaleine Sorkin on Building Mental Climbing Strength

When we are struggling on our projects, we all like to think that the solution is simply to train harder and come back when we are stronger.  While any climber with the ambition of progressing to more difficult climbing grades [...]

By | July 17th, 2017|0 Comments

Adam Ondra Training Series – EpicTV

Adam Ondra is a climber who needs no introduction.  He has established and repeated the world's hardest climbs on everything from sport routes, to boulders, to the Dawn Wall. While Adam may seem like a purely natural talent, he has put [...]

By | June 28th, 2017|0 Comments

David Mason – Fingerboard Routine

You can make fingerboarding as complicated or as simple as you like.  The good thing is that as long as you are using proper form and consistently progressing the difficulty your fingers will get stronger. To help you fingerboard effectively [...]

By | June 2nd, 2017|1 Comment

Natasha Barnes – Ankle Sprains

So, you're on a bouldering trip.  You're trying to send your project and you jump for the last hold only to miss and come crashing into the pads.  Only this time instead of shouting in frustration and then resting up for [...]

By | May 30th, 2017|1 Comment

Route Setting to Prevent Injury with Chris Danielson

When it comes to climbing and especially to training, climbers are spending more and more of their time climbing in indoor gyms.  While gyms are the perfect place to hone your skills, there are some important differences between indoor and [...]

By | May 19th, 2017|0 Comments

Mark Anderson – 40 Climbing Lessons

Training guru and author of the Rock Climbers Training Manual Mark Anderson recently turned 40 (happy birthday from TrainingBeta!).  To celebrate, Mark wrote a blog post in which he outlined 40 climbing lessons he's learned during his year involved in [...]

By | May 11th, 2017|0 Comments

Jonathan Siegrist Interview – Three 5.15s in Three Weeks

Training for rock climbing can be addictive: put in some hard training work, see some gains, send your project. This is the process that we all want and is the reason we are willing to suffer through training sessions that [...]

By | April 29th, 2017|0 Comments