The Knowledge Quest with Sam Elias and Esther Smith

Climbing injuries happen. While we can be proactive with our prevention and follow a well-designed training program, if you climb long enough, you're going to deal with an injury. Whether it's a shoulder, elbow, or finger injury, you're going to [...]

By |2019-08-29T12:55:48+00:00August 29th, 2019|0 Comments

Transcript Highlight: Jonathan Siegrist on Trying Hard

Jonathan Siegrist is a badass. His resume of hard routes speaks for itself and, with several 9b/5.15b sends under his belt, he's in an exclusive club of the world's best rock climbers. For the rest of us, when you see [...]

By |2019-07-25T09:03:34+00:00July 25th, 2019|0 Comments

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk: Cellar Training Culture in the UK

In most cities around the US, modern climbing gyms are opening left and right. These gyms boast tens of thousands of square feet of climbing terrain, training areas, weight rooms, yoga studios, and are even clean and well-lit. Essentially, they [...]

By |2018-11-26T19:38:22+00:00November 26th, 2018|4 Comments

Paige Claassen: How I Trained for Algorithm 5.14d

Paige Claassen is a badass. Period. Having now climbed up to 5.14d/9a sport routes, what can the rest of us really learn from Paige and how she trained to climb her first 5.14d, Algorithm? The answer is A LOT. Today [...]

By |2018-11-09T07:12:58+00:00November 13th, 2018|1 Comment

Sam Elias: Level Up Your Mental Game – 6 Books

It's easy to say a lot of climbing is mental. However, improving your mental game isn't as easy or straightforward. Just like training your fingers or improving your technique, improving your mental game takes deliberate and consistent hard work. What [...]

By |2018-10-17T15:08:16+00:00October 18th, 2018|1 Comment

Rock and Ice: Michaela Kiersch on Setting Goals

It's easy to look at the big accomplishments of the climbing elite and think that these sends just happened because of how strong and talented these athletes are. However, this view not only glosses over all the hard work these climbers [...]

By |2018-07-23T14:36:58+00:00July 24th, 2018|0 Comments

Transcript Highlight: Roane Van Voorst and Hazel Findlay on Exercising the “Fear Muscle”

Two weeks ago, I (Matt Pincus) shared an excerpt from the TrainingBeta Podcast episode with Dutch climber and researcher Roane Van Voorst about how Lynn Hill deals with fear. The episode itself is about Van Voorst's book Fear! in which she interviews top [...]

By |2018-06-03T14:17:58+00:00June 3rd, 2018|0 Comments

Rock and Ice: Steve House on Skill vs Strength Sessions

The goal of training should be to get better at rock climbing. If it's not making you better then what's the point in doing it. Sure that sounds nice and simple, but things get more complicated when we factor in [...]

By |2018-05-07T08:58:28+00:00May 7th, 2018|0 Comments