Rock and Ice: Steve House on Skill vs Strength Sessions

The goal of training should be to get better at rock climbing. If it's not making you better then what's the point in doing it. Sure that sounds nice and simple, but things get more complicated when we factor in [...]

By | 2018-05-07T08:58:28+00:00 May 7th, 2018|0 Comments

The Project Magazine: Joe Kinder Profile

Joe Kinder is a climber who needs no introduction. He has a been a top climber for decades. He has repeated hard sport routes and has developed routes in numerous areas around the world. Additionally, with Jonathan Siegrist's recent ascent [...]

By | 2018-04-09T16:41:31+00:00 April 10th, 2018|0 Comments

Natasha Barnes: Concepts for Managing Training Stress in Climbing

At this point, we should all know that improving at climbing requires us to train hard, but also give ourselves enough time to recover from the stress of that training. Chiropractor and sports injury rehabilitation specialist Natasha Barnes recently wrote an article [...]

By | 2018-03-28T09:22:52+00:00 March 28th, 2018|0 Comments

Michaela Tracy: Training – Enough is Enough

Recently we posted an article by Natasha Barnes about the stress/recovery/adaptation cycle and its role in training for climbing. The gist of Natasha's article is that if we want our training to make us stronger, we need to give our [...]

By | 2018-03-19T11:11:36+00:00 March 19th, 2018|1 Comment

Adam Ondra Silence Video and Performance Analysis

This past September, Adam Ondra established the world's first 5.15d/9c when he climbed Silence in Flatanger, Norway. Establishing the hardest route in the world is newsworthy simply because of the difficulty. However, it's even more valuable for us to look [...]

By | 2018-02-28T08:38:14+00:00 February 28th, 2018|0 Comments

Evening Sends: How Paige Claassen Sent Her Proj With Only 1 Hour Per Day

As I've sure you've seen by now, Paige Claassen recently sent Necessary Evil 5.14c. When Chris Sharma first established Necessary Evil in 1997, it was the hardest route in the country. In the 21 years since the first ascent, Necessary Evil [...]

By | 2018-02-18T08:22:26+00:00 February 18th, 2018|1 Comment

Transcript Highlight: Paige Claassen on Learning to Try Hard

Paige Claassen just sent the historic Necessary Evil 5.14c in the VRG. She had tried this route in the past, trained specifically for it, and then stuck it out at the crag to come away with a send. Congrats Paige! [...]

By | 2018-02-09T16:30:58+00:00 February 9th, 2018|0 Comments

Climbing Magazine: Jonathan Siegrist on Improving Your Climbing

Since you've made your way to TrainingBeta, it's a pretty safe bet you want to improve your climbing. You probably want to climb higher and higher grades and are looking for information about how training can help you make that [...]

By | 2018-01-28T08:11:12+00:00 January 28th, 2018|0 Comments