Mark Anderson Advanced Endurance Training

When it comes to training endurance for long sport routes, one of the most effective strategies is performing power endurance circuits with set rest times.  This kind of high end or advanced endurance training is highly effective as it mimics [...]

By | January 15th, 2017|0 Comments

Mark Anderson on Choosing Shadowboxing

A couple months ago, we posted an article by Mark Anderson, one of the authors of The Rock Climber's Training Manual, about his successful ascent of his multi-season project Shadowboxing in Rifle Colorado.  Mark's ascent was particularly impressive not only [...]

By | December 20th, 2016|0 Comments

The Three Underlying Reasons for Climbing Injuries

Anyone who has trained hard for or taken climbing seriously knows the constant risk of injury.  On TrainingBeta, we have also written extensively about all the antagonist exercises you should be doing to stave off climbing injuries before they happen. [...]

By | November 4th, 2016|0 Comments

Mark Anderson on Sending Shadowboxing

In sport climbing, we tend to celebrate the ascents that require climbers to commit to sustained efforts over multiple season and become better climbers in the process of sending.  While that is something we all might aspire to, actually committing [...]

By | October 16th, 2016|0 Comments

Chris Sharma on Training

A few weeks ago, we posted a video about Chris Sharma committing to a training program with high level climber and trainer Paxti Usobiaga.  If you haven't seen it, the video is extremely motivating.  Not only do you get to [...]

By | October 14th, 2016|0 Comments

Emily Harrington: Aim High, Fail Often

For many of us the reason we train is to get stronger so we will be able to climb our next hardest route or boulder problem.  While this process is obviously a large part of what make climbing such an [...]

By | October 2nd, 2016|0 Comments

BD Bootcamp Ladies Edition

Two summer's ago for the first BD Bootcamp Black Diamond athletes Joe Kinder, Sam Elias, and Dan Mirsky committed to putting outdoor climbing on hold while they trained togethger in an effort to up their overall climbing level.  This time [...]

By | September 30th, 2016|0 Comments

Lynn Hill on Dynoing

Lynn Hill is a climber who needs no introduction.  However, at 5'1" and a half, Lynn has consistently had to come up with creative beta to allow her to move past long reaches that taller climbers can simply span. Today [...]

By | September 13th, 2016|0 Comments