Evening Sends: How Paige Claassen Sent Her Proj With Only 1 Hour Per Day

As I've sure you've seen by now, Paige Claassen recently sent Necessary Evil 5.14c. When Chris Sharma first established Necessary Evil in 1997, it was the hardest route in the country. In the 21 years since the first ascent, Necessary Evil [...]

By | 2018-02-18T08:22:26+00:00 February 18th, 2018|0 Comments

Transcript Highlight: Paige Claassen on Learning to Try Hard

Paige Claassen just sent the historic Necessary Evil 5.14c in the VRG. She had tried this route in the past, trained specifically for it, and then stuck it out at the crag to come away with a send. Congrats Paige! [...]

By | 2018-02-09T16:30:58+00:00 February 9th, 2018|0 Comments

Climbing Magazine: Jonathan Siegrist on Improving Your Climbing

Since you've made your way to TrainingBeta, it's a pretty safe bet you want to improve your climbing. You probably want to climb higher and higher grades and are looking for information about how training can help you make that [...]

By | 2018-01-28T08:11:12+00:00 January 28th, 2018|0 Comments

Eric Hörst: Learn From Watching Margo Hayes Send Biographie

Climbing 5.15 isn't something most of us are going to achieve. However, watching videos of top climbers, like Margo Hayes, send their projects is beneficial beyond simply being entertaining. That is as long as you watch the videos critically and [...]

By | 2018-01-27T12:41:47+00:00 January 27th, 2018|0 Comments

The Project Magazine: 56° Underground with Ned Feehally

When it comes to training for climbing, it's hard to be more dedicated and maniacal than the British. Whether you trace it back to Jerry Moffatt and Ben Moon or look at current day climbers, the fact is Brits have a unique [...]

By | 2018-01-08T08:48:28+00:00 January 8th, 2018|0 Comments

Climbing Magazine: 7 Stretches for Climbing Road Trips

If you're a dedicated climber, then you've almost definitely driven long distances to climb.  While road trips are exciting and super fun, long periods in the car can leave you feeling stiff, sore, and ready for a rest day.  But, [...]

By | 2017-12-08T09:05:28+00:00 December 8th, 2017|0 Comments

Climbing Magazine: Adam Ondra and Using Visualization

When we hear about Adam Ondra establishing Silence (the world's first 9c/5.15d route), it's easy to say, "Wow, he sent because of how hard he trained." Obviously, Adam Ondra trains incredibly hard and no one can climb 5.15 without being strong. However, [...]

By | 2017-12-03T19:28:58+00:00 December 3rd, 2017|0 Comments

Climbing Magazine: Three Subtle Technique Changes with Justen Sjong

When our performance plateaus, most of us immediately feel like we need to double down on our training.  After all, climbs would feel a whole lot easier if you just had stronger fingers, could do 1-5-9 on the campus board, [...]

By | 2017-11-10T13:17:23+00:00 November 10th, 2017|0 Comments