James Lucas: How I Trained for Midnight Lightning

Maybe you've heard of James Lucas through his writing for Climbing Magazine. However, if you'd heard of James Lucas before that, chances are you know of him as a dirtbag climber. That's because James did spend a better part of a [...]

By |2019-10-24T08:49:42+00:00October 24th, 2019|0 Comments

Dan Mirsky: How I Trained for Fat Camp

Dan Mirsky is one of the most passionate and driven climbers I know. When it comes to putting his head down and working his projects, Dan is as dedicated as they come. Dan is also calculated and driven with his [...]

By |2019-10-31T10:32:28+00:00September 4th, 2019|1 Comment

Leif Gasch: How I Trained for Less Than Zero 5.14b

With training, it's easy to get obsessed with the idea of perfect. We all want to know what the perfect hangboard protocol is, what the perfect periodization scheme is, or what perfect set of supplemental exercises will let us reach [...]

By |2019-06-11T09:46:39+00:00June 11th, 2019|2 Comments

Marina Inoue: How I Trained for Dark Age V11

With training, it's easy to think that more is always the answer - more exercises, more sessions, and more training tools. The reality though is that just "more" is seldom the way forward. Well thought-out training plans don't necessarily require complex [...]

By |2019-03-29T17:08:38+00:00March 28th, 2019|0 Comments

Danny Robertson: How I Train for Limit Sport Climbs

Projecting limit sport climbs is a process. It's a process with lots of pitfalls along the way. Many climbers sabotage themselves both on the route and in their preparation beforehand, but ultimately, there's an art to projecting. We've done our best [...]

By |2019-03-29T17:21:26+00:00February 21st, 2019|2 Comments

Brianna Greene: How I Trained for My First 5.12

Climbing our first 5.12 is a big deal to a lot of us. At that level, it's easy to get sucked into believing that sessions on the hangboard, bouldering for power, and lifting weights will get you past that 5.11 [...]

By |2019-03-29T17:24:46+00:00January 10th, 2019|1 Comment

Paige Claassen: How I Trained for Algorithm 5.14d

Paige Claassen is a badass. Period. Having now climbed up to 5.14d/9a sport routes, what can the rest of us really learn from Paige and how she trained to climb her first 5.14d, Algorithm? The answer is A LOT. Today [...]

By |2018-11-09T07:12:58+00:00November 13th, 2018|1 Comment

Alex Stiger: How I Trained for Tomb Raider 5.13d

Our main goal with the How I Trained For series is to showcase how actual climbers trained to complete their goals. Everyone has different strengths and weaknesses. This means everyone has different training needs, and successful training programs reflect these individual concerns. Additionally, [...]

By |2018-12-17T12:31:20+00:00October 4th, 2018|7 Comments