Leif Gasch: How I Trained for Less Than Zero 5.14b

With training, it's easy to get obsessed with the idea of perfect. We all want to know what the perfect hangboard protocol is, what the perfect periodization scheme is, or what perfect set of supplemental exercises will let us reach [...]

By |2019-06-11T09:46:39+00:00June 11th, 2019|2 Comments

Marina Inoue: How I Trained for Dark Age V11

With training, it's easy to think that more is always the answer - more exercises, more sessions, and more training tools. The reality though is that just "more" is seldom the way forward. Well thought-out training plans don't necessarily require complex [...]

By |2019-03-29T17:08:38+00:00March 28th, 2019|0 Comments

Danny Robertson: How I Train for Limit Sport Climbs

Projecting limit sport climbs is a process. It's a process with lots of pitfalls along the way. Many climbers sabotage themselves both on the route and in their preparation beforehand, but ultimately, there's an art to projecting. We've done our best [...]

By |2019-03-29T17:21:26+00:00February 21st, 2019|2 Comments

Brianna Greene: How I Trained for My First 5.12

Climbing our first 5.12 is a big deal to a lot of us. At that level, it's easy to get sucked into believing that sessions on the hangboard, bouldering for power, and lifting weights will get you past that 5.11 [...]

By |2019-03-29T17:24:46+00:00January 10th, 2019|1 Comment

Paige Claassen: How I Trained for Algorithm 5.14d

Paige Claassen is a badass. Period. Having now climbed up to 5.14d/9a sport routes, what can the rest of us really learn from Paige and how she trained to climb her first 5.14d, Algorithm? The answer is A LOT. Today [...]

By |2018-11-09T07:12:58+00:00November 13th, 2018|1 Comment

Alex Stiger: How I Trained for Tomb Raider 5.13d

Our main goal with the How I Trained For series is to showcase how actual climbers trained to complete their goals. Everyone has different strengths and weaknesses. This means everyone has different training needs, and successful training programs reflect these individual concerns. Additionally, [...]

By |2018-12-17T12:31:20+00:00October 4th, 2018|7 Comments

Brian Suntay: How I Trained for a Successful Sport Climbing Season

Training programs may look great on paper, but people seldom follow them exactly. Instead, their training changes to reflect their schedule, goals, and life commitments. That's why we're starting a series here at TrainingBeta where real climbers share how they actually [...]

By |2018-08-21T09:35:08+00:00August 21st, 2018|0 Comments