Transcript Highlight: Paige Claassen on Learning to Try Hard

Paige Claassen just sent the historic Necessary Evil 5.14c in the VRG. She had tried this route in the past, trained specifically for it, and then stuck it out at the crag to come away with a send. Congrats Paige! [...]

By | 2018-02-09T16:30:58+00:00 February 9th, 2018|0 Comments

Transcript Highlight: Dr. Jared Vagy on Muscle Activation Exercises

While we have definitely learned a lot about how to effectively train for climbing, from a sports science perspective, climbing is still far behind lots of other mainstream sports. We can't catch up overnight (research takes time!), but one of [...]

By | 2017-12-26T07:37:30+00:00 December 26th, 2017|0 Comments

Transcript Highlight: Lattice Training on The Training Needs of Males vs Females

It may seem obvious that men and women have different strengths and weaknesses as climbers and athletes.  However, while we are quick to make generalizations about which climbs are better suited to either men or women, we don't seem to [...]

By | 2017-10-24T12:16:27+00:00 October 24th, 2017|0 Comments

Transcript Highlight: Paige Claassen on Your First Time Up a Project

When we watch videos of professional climbers sending super hard routes, it's easy to be amazed at their ability to confidently climb through such sustained sections of incredibly hard climbing.  Sometimes, the send even looks effortless. However, what these send [...]

By | 2017-09-29T15:14:15+00:00 September 29th, 2017|1 Comment

Transcript Highlight: Lee Sheftel on Motivation

If you've spent any time climbing in Rifle Mountain Park, then you've seen Lee Sheftel.  Despite recently turning 71, Lee is always in the canyon climbing pitches and working on his projects with just as much motivation as the 20 [...]

By | 2017-09-18T06:35:12+00:00 August 26th, 2017|0 Comments

Transcript Highlight: Justin Brown on If You Should Keep Your Skin Dry

An unfortunate reality of climbing is that it can beat up our skin.  We've all been there hoping our skin will get less greasy, willing our skin to grow faster, or praying a split will heal over night all so [...]

By | 2017-09-18T06:35:45+00:00 July 21st, 2017|0 Comments

Transcript Highlight: Daniel Woods on Training for Routes

I know what you're thinking.  Daniel Woods is a boulderer.  Why should I listen to him about training for sport climbs?  Well, the simple answer is that while Daniel is best know for being one of the strongest boulderers on [...]

By | 2017-09-18T06:36:00+00:00 June 30th, 2017|0 Comments

Transcript Highlight: Mathilde Becerra on Double Sessions

With all the information on training and all the exercises you"should be doing," it can be hard to know how to fit everything in without turning your sessions into 5 hour marathons that leave you wrecked for a week.  Additionally, [...]

By | 2017-09-18T06:36:16+00:00 June 14th, 2017|0 Comments