Transcript Highlight: Steve Bechtel on New Endurance Training Methods

You're above your bolt gunning for the chains on your project. But wait! Your forearms are getting pumped, your elbows start to chicken wing, you start to panic, and before you know it your hanging from the end of your [...]

By |2019-04-17T13:42:04+00:00April 17th, 2019|0 Comments

Transcript Highlight: Dr. Jared Vagy on The Frequency of Injury Prevention Exercises

Injuries suck. Not only do they prevent us from climbing in the short term, but they de-rail long term progress by forcing us to spend seasons on the couch rather than at the crag becoming better and stronger climbers. It's [...]

By |2019-03-29T17:11:19+00:00March 21st, 2019|1 Comment

Transcript Highlight: Lattice Training on the Perfect 1-Hour Session

Climbing training takes time. Unfortunately, most of us have schedules that are anything but full of extra time we can devote to our training. However, being low on time doesn't mean you can't have quality training sessions and progress your [...]

By |2019-02-13T09:24:34+00:00February 13th, 2019|0 Comments

Transcript Highlight: Roanne Van Voorst on Positivity

Over the past couple of weeks, I (Matt Pincus) have been sharing excerpts from Neely's conversation with Dutch climber and researcher Roane Van Voorst. So far we've looked at how Lynn Hill deals with fear and how Hazel Findlay practices dealing [...]

By |2018-06-19T14:13:40+00:00June 19th, 2018|0 Comments

Transcript Highlight: Roane Van Voorst and Hazel Findlay on Exercising the “Fear Muscle”

Two weeks ago, I (Matt Pincus) shared an excerpt from the TrainingBeta Podcast episode with Dutch climber and researcher Roane Van Voorst about how Lynn Hill deals with fear. The episode itself is about Van Voorst's book Fear! in which she interviews top [...]

By |2018-06-03T14:17:58+00:00June 3rd, 2018|0 Comments

Transcript Highlight: Roanne Van Voorst on How Lynn Hill Deals with Fear

Fear can be one of the most limiting factors in climbing performance. The fear of falling is probably the most common climbing fear and we are all familiar with climbers who become paralyzed with fear as soon as a bolt [...]

By |2018-08-07T11:41:15+00:00May 22nd, 2018|0 Comments

Transcript Highlight: Dave MacLeod on Training vs Performance

As climbers, most of us always want to be pushing hard to progress our climbing. We want to be training as hard as possible when we are in the gym and sending as hard as possible when we are outside. [...]

By |2018-05-07T09:09:08+00:00May 8th, 2018|0 Comments

Transcript Highlight: Kyra Condie Describes Her Campus Routine

You've probably seen videos of Kyra Condie campusing somewhere on social media, right? Well, we did an interview with her on the podcast, and in this transcript excerpt she describes exactly what she does during her campus board workouts. It's [...]

By |2018-04-17T13:28:28+00:00April 17th, 2018|1 Comment