Transcript Highlight: Roanne Van Voorst on Positivity

Over the past couple of weeks, I (Matt Pincus) have been sharing excerpts from Neely's conversation with Dutch climber and researcher Roane Van Voorst. So far we've looked at how Lynn Hill deals with fear and how Hazel Findlay practices dealing [...]

By | 2018-06-19T14:13:40+00:00 June 19th, 2018|0 Comments

Transcript Highlight: Roane Van Voorst and Hazel Findlay on Exercising the “Fear Muscle”

Two weeks ago, I (Matt Pincus) shared an excerpt from the TrainingBeta Podcast episode with Dutch climber and researcher Roane Van Voorst about how Lynn Hill deals with fear. The episode itself is about Van Voorst's book Fear! in which she interviews top [...]

By | 2018-06-03T14:17:58+00:00 June 3rd, 2018|0 Comments

Transcript Highlight: Roanne Van Voorst on How Lynn Hill Deals with Fear

Fear can be one of the most limiting factors in climbing performance. The fear of falling is probably the most common climbing fear and we are all familiar with climbers who become paralyzed with fear as soon as a bolt [...]

By | 2018-05-22T09:50:44+00:00 May 22nd, 2018|0 Comments

Transcript Highlight: Dave MacLeod on Training vs Performance

As climbers, most of us always want to be pushing hard to progress our climbing. We want to be training as hard as possible when we are in the gym and sending as hard as possible when we are outside. [...]

By | 2018-05-07T09:09:08+00:00 May 8th, 2018|0 Comments

Transcript Highlight: Kyra Condie Describes Her Campus Routine

You've probably seen videos of Kyra Condie campusing somewhere on social media, right? Well, we did an interview with her on the podcast, and in this transcript excerpt she describes exactly what she does during her campus board workouts. It's [...]

By | 2018-04-17T13:28:28+00:00 April 17th, 2018|1 Comment

Transcript Highlight: Joshua Rucci on Resting

Most of us want to climb all the time. While there's obviously nothing wrong with loving climbing, we can't do it every day. Resting is important. Whether we are on a trip or simply motivated to train, we tend to [...]

By | 2018-03-05T08:25:31+00:00 March 5th, 2018|0 Comments

Transcript Highlight: Paige Claassen on Learning to Try Hard

Paige Claassen just sent the historic Necessary Evil 5.14c in the VRG. She had tried this route in the past, trained specifically for it, and then stuck it out at the crag to come away with a send. Congrats Paige! [...]

By | 2018-02-09T16:30:58+00:00 February 9th, 2018|0 Comments

Transcript Highlight: Dr. Jared Vagy on Muscle Activation Exercises

While we have definitely learned a lot about how to effectively train for climbing, from a sports science perspective, climbing is still far behind lots of other mainstream sports. We can't catch up overnight (research takes time!), but one of [...]

By | 2017-12-26T07:37:30+00:00 December 26th, 2017|0 Comments