It's easy to look at the big accomplishments of the climbing elite and think that these sends just happened because of how strong and talented these athletes are. However, this view not only glosses over all the hard work these climbers [...]
Two weeks ago, I (Matt Pincus) shared an excerpt from the TrainingBeta Podcast episode with Dutch climber and researcher Roane Van Voorst about how Lynn Hill deals with fear. The episode itself is about Van Voorst's book Fear! in which she interviews top [...]
The goal of training should be to get better at rock climbing. If it's not making you better then what's the point in doing it. Sure that sounds nice and simple, but things get more complicated when we factor in [...]
Joe Kinder is a climber who needs no introduction. He has a been a top climber for decades. He has repeated hard sport routes and has developed routes in numerous areas around the world. Additionally, with Jonathan Siegrist's recent ascent [...]
At this point, we should all know that improving at climbing requires us to train hard, but also give ourselves enough time to recover from the stress of that training. Chiropractor and sports injury rehabilitation specialist Natasha Barnes recently wrote an article [...]
Recently we posted an article by Natasha Barnes about the stress/recovery/adaptation cycle and its role in training for climbing. The gist of Natasha's article is that if we want our training to make us stronger, we need to give our [...]