Rock and Ice: Improve Your Pinch Strength

When it comes to improving overall finger strength, hangboards are the gold standard. However, hangboard training works most effectively when training for edge, pocket, and crimp holds. They are, however, not as effective for improving pinch strength. The main reason [...]

By |2018-01-31T11:22:21+00:00January 31st, 2018|1 Comment

Lattice Training: Core Training Video

The fact that core strength is important for climbing performance is no secret. A strong core allows us to create body tension and lets us transfer weight to our feet when climbing on overhanging terrain. Core training should be a staple [...]

By |2018-01-16T12:47:28+00:00January 16th, 2018|0 Comments

Lattice Training: Body Positioning on Rings and TRX

The Olympic Rings and TRX are very valuable training tools. They can be used to train climbing specific strength, especially core strength and shoulder stability. They can also be used effectively as part of an injury prevention program to train [...]

By |2018-01-14T13:58:23+00:00January 10th, 2018|0 Comments

The Project Magazine: 56° Underground with Ned Feehally

When it comes to training for climbing, it's hard to be more dedicated and maniacal than the British. Whether you trace it back to Jerry Moffatt and Ben Moon or look at current day climbers, the fact is Brits have a unique [...]

By |2018-01-08T08:48:28+00:00January 8th, 2018|0 Comments

How to Train Power without a Campus Board

One of the most common questions we get here at TrainingBeta is what people should substitute into their training when they don't have access to a campus board. Before we talk about what other types of training can take the place [...]

By |2017-12-20T09:01:44+00:00December 20th, 2017|0 Comments

Bouldering Training: Free Strength Training Workout

Bouldering, like all climbing, requires really strong fingers.  Any training program that doesn't have a central finger strength component is missing the mark.  Additionally, the time you spend training finger strength is a great time to fit in a full-body strength [...]

By |2017-12-06T12:18:32+00:00December 6th, 2017|0 Comments

Dave MacLeod: Edge Hangboard and How-To Hangboard Video

Now I know what you're thinking, another article on hangboarding?  We all know finger strength is important and hangboarding is the best way to train it - so haven't we pretty much covered it? Well, those are fair questions.  Unfortunately, while [...]

By |2017-12-05T08:39:18+00:00December 5th, 2017|0 Comments

Top 5 Strength Training Articles

Strength is the basis of hard rock climbing.  If you aren't strong enough for a climb, no amount of endurance is going to get you to the chains. Now, when it comes to rock climbing, we all know that finger [...]

By |2017-11-30T09:48:32+00:00November 29th, 2017|0 Comments