There’s a lot of training information out there. We’re fully guilty of adding to it.

Having all this information is great, but it can be hard to know how to put it all together into effective workouts and more importantly into effective long-term training programs.

However, we feel there are two things that should be kept in mind above everything else when designing workouts and a training program. First, climbing is a skill sport. Second, strength is the fundamental attribute on which all rock climbing relies. This means all successful training programs need to prioritize both skill development and strength building.

Integrated Strength and Skill Practice

There are lots of different ways to meet these criteria. Today, we want to share two videos from our friends at Butora and Gnarly Nutrition that showcase two different workouts that have integrated strength components following deliberate skill practice sessions. We feel these videos are shining examples of how to prioritize skill first followed by strength.

Additionally, these videos are accompanied by an article by coach Bradley Hilbert. In it, he explains the goals of these workouts, the theory behind crosstraining for climbing, and how we can integrate better nutritional practices to help us get the most out of our training.

“Climbing is changing, and cross-training is coming into it in the same way it has come into every other major sport. You can choose to sit around salty, complaining about tiny fingers and strength to weight ratio, or you can integrate some strength training into your climbing and increase your strength to weight ratio.” – Bradley Hilbert

Integrated Strength Workout Videos

Here’s a quick teaser to give you an idea what these workouts are all about.

To download the full videos for yourself click the graphic below! These videos outline complete workouts, one session for bouldering and one for route climbing, so there’s no guesswork on your end. All you need to do is download the videos and you can add them to your training immediately.

Additionally, don’t forget to click through below to read coach Bradley Hilbert’s thoughts on why these workouts are so effective and how we can better fuel our bodies to maximize our gains from them.

Full Article: Integrated Strength Workouts with Butora and Gnarly Nutrition

 

climbing training programs

(video still courtesy of butorausa.com)

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4 Comments

  1. Jeff March 14, 2018 at 2:32 am - Reply

    HI Neely,

    I can’t seem to access the video anymore, but I distinctly remember a few issues.

    Initially, the pull starts too far in front of him and not over the mid-foot. As a result the pull starts with rolling the bar towards himself which in turn results in rounding of the upper back. I also remember seeing far to much movement in the shoulders during the pull, they start activated and then drop out during the pull.

    If you can share a link I can re-watch the video to make sure my memory is correct.

    Jeff

    • Neely Quinn March 15, 2018 at 10:28 am - Reply

      Hi Jeff – Thanks for the details. I’ll re-watch them myself and talk to my content manager and our personal trainer, Matt Pincus, about it. I don’t really know what else to say about it except that we try to have a keen eye about these things, but sometimes we miss things and I guess so do other trainers. I don’t know why you can’t access the videos – the link is working for me, but they’re here: https://www.trainingbeta.com/integrated-strength-workouts-with-butora-and-gnarly-nutrition/

  2. Jeff March 8, 2018 at 11:28 pm - Reply

    If you are going to be posting training videos, please make sure that they don’t demonstrate poor form. The dead lifts in this video demonstrate terrible form, how does the coach not see this and/or correct it?

    • Neely Quinn March 12, 2018 at 10:04 am - Reply

      Hi Jeff – Can you be more specific about what is wrong with the deadlift form please?

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