The TrainingBeta Podcast
The Best Resource for Climbing Training Beta
On the TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn talks to climbers, coaches, physical therapists, and other professionals about how to get better at rock climbing. As a nutritionist and a mindset coach, she offers her own expertise to the mix as well. You can expect to find actionable advice and meaningful conversations on this podcast that will help you train smarter, fuel yourself better, and find more fulfillment in your rock climbing.



TBP 122 :: The Access Fund – How Our Behavior Threatens Climbing Access and How We Can Do Better
In this interview, Zachary Lesch-Huie from the Access Fund discusses all the negative behaviors we engage in that threaten climbing access and the enjoyment of others. We talk about dogs, noise, crowds, poop, pee, erosion, kids, and how we can all do better.
TBP 121: Life Coach Remy Franklin on Setting Priorities & Attaining Goals
In this podcast interview, life coach Remy Franklin talks about how to prioritize your goals and figure out what actions you need to take to be successful.
TBP 120: How Brianna Greene Trained to Send Her First 5.12a
In this interview, Brianna Greene describes how she overcame fear and low confidence in order to send her first 5.12a last fall.
TBP 119: How Tom O’Halloran Climbs 9a While Raising A Daughter and Working Full-Time
In this interview, Australian climber Tom O'Halloran talks about how he manages to climb 9a and V14 while holding down a full-time job and raising a daughter.
TBP 118 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on the Latest Tech for Finger Training and Testing
In this interview I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about the latest device for testing finger strength and power output and how it's revolutionizing climbing training.
TBP 117: 15-Yr-Old Tanner Bauer on Training for 14b & Growth Plate Injury
In this interview, 15-year-old Tanner Bauer explains how training with his team got him to 5.14 and comp wins, and how he sustained a growth plate injury.
TBP 116 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Healing Finger Injuries
In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about how to heal and prevent finger pulley sprains and other finger injuries using his Rock Rehab Pyramid for rock climbers.
TBP 115 :: Dalton Bunker on Sending 9a, Training Endurance, and Being Vegan
In this interview, Dalton Bunker explains how he trains for outdoor climbing and comp climbing, and how becoming a vegan helped his health and his climbing.
TBP 114 :: Lattice Training – 5 Training Hacks for The Time-Poor Climber
Date: October 17th, 2018 About Lattice Training's Tom Randall and Ollie Torr Tom Randall and Ollie Torr are the head trainers and founders at www.latticetraining.com, and in this second interview with them, we talked about some training hacks for people who don't [...]
TBP 113 :: How Dru Mack Is So Dang Good at Endurance Climbing
In this interview, Dru Mack tells us about his never-ending psych for climbing and how he trains to have such extraordinary endurance on long routes.
TBP 112 :: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk on Overcoming Fears and Setting Big Goals
Mina Leslie-Wujastyk talks about how she's training to climb 5.14d, how she overcame fear of falling after an accident, and her dialed-in diet.
TBP 111 :: Matt Pincus On Fitting Everything Into Your Training Program
I talk with Matt Pincus about how you can't actually fit EVERYTHING into your training program, but you can prioritize what to train based on your goals.
TBP 110 :: Steve Bechtel on Training Endurance for Climbing
In this episode I talk to revered climbing trainer, Steve Bechtel, about how we can efficiently train endurance and power endurance for rock climbing.
TBP 109 :: How Electrician Leif Gasch Sent His First 5.14b at Age 38
In this interview I talk with 38-year-old full-time electrician, Leif Gasch, about how he went through 5 training cycles with some of the best trainers in the world, and finally landed on a training program that allowed him to send his first 5.14b.
TBP 108 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Blood Flow Restriction Training for Climbers
In this interview I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about using blood flow restriction training to help heal injuries and to maintain strength during performance phases.