Project Description

Date: May 15th, 2019

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About Jonathan Siegrist

Jonathan Siegrist (J-Star) is a 33-year-old professional rock climber based out of Las Vegas, NV. Since he started climbing as a kid, he’s become one of the world’s most prolific sport climbers. To date, he’s climbed two 15b’s, nine 15a’s, thirty-two 9a’s, and hundreds of other 5.14’s. He’s currently ranked as the #3 sport climber in the world on 8a.nu.

He’s bouldered up to V14, sent sketchy PG-13 and R-rated trad climbs, and has sent 5.14 trad big walls. He’s also bolted a lot of routes of all grades in Colorado, Idaho, and beyond.

Besides all that, he’s one of my best friends, and he’s one of the most motivated, positive people I’ve ever met. Aside from being an incredible climber, his genuine gratitude for life and hunger for adventure are inspirational to me. He’s also really fun to hang out with.

I spent the past month in Spain with Jonathan while he sieged La Planta de Shiva, a 5.15b that caught his eye due to its endurance-y nature and its relative lack of kneebars. He trained very well for this route and it paid off with a quick ascent after about 2.5 weeks of being there. This interview is about his training and his process on the route, but we also did something a little different this time: Jonathan interviewed me as well during our talk.

The reason for this is that while he and everyone else on our trip sent, I did not send my own project. So this dual interview was all about the contrast between a super prolific professional climber and a mere mortal such as myself, and the differences between our experiences in Spain. It’s about the difference between going on a trip and sending and going on a trip and failing to send, and all the mental battles and celebrations that go along with those things. It’ll offer you some insight into both of our lives, as well as a bit of comic relief.

Jonathan Siegrist Interview Details

In this interview with Jonathan Siegrist, we talk about his simple (but not easy) training methods to prepare for this trip, and about his experience on the route. It was quite a fight to get to the top of Planta de Shiva, so we dive into that battle a bit. We also talk about my own experience of failing to send my project in Spain, how fear kept me from trying it more, and what I learned from my route. Jonathan wrote out some questions for both of us to ask each other, and here they are:

  • Did you have any expectations for this trip? Anything at all…
  • How did you prepare for this trip, mentally/physically
  • What are some unexpected things that came up during this trip?
  • How do you choose a project or decide how to spend your time on a trip like this?
  • In retrospect, how would you have prepared differently, if you feel you would have?
  • How did you like the climbing here?
  • What do you think of the vibes at the cliff? Is it different than US?
  • What were your favorite aspects of the trip outside of climbing?

Jonathan Siegrist Links

Training Programs for You

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  • Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
  • Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world 😉

Photo Credit

Photo of Jonathan on la Planta de Shiva 5.15b by @javipec

Transcript

Coming soon…

TrainingBeta is a site dedicated to training for rock climbing. We provide resources and information about training for routes, bouldering, finger strength, mental training, nutrition for climbers, and everything in between. We offer climbing training programs, a blog, interviews on the TrainingBeta Podcast, personal training for climbing, and nutrition for climbers.


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