Dr. Jared Vagy is a physical therapist, and he’s a climber who’s incredibly motivated to help other climbers heal their bodies. In this interview, we talk about how to heal common elbow injuries in climbers. It’s super in-depth and he describes exact protocols to use on elbow injuries, so I hope it helps you out.

Other Interviews with Jared

1. In my first interview with Dr. Vagy on the podcast we talked in general about how to heal injuries, but since that time he has gotten way more specific about the steps we need to take to address them.
2. In our second interview he talked about how to heal shoulder impingement.
3. In our third interview, we talked about rotator cuff injuries and neck strain.
4. In our fourth interview, we discussed finger pulley sprains.

Jared also wrote a paperback book all about healing climbing injuries called Climb Injury-Free. In it, he describes his 4-step pyramid to healing injuries:

In the book he discusses injuries of all kinds, but in this interview we focus on inside elbow pain, outside elbow pain, and how to heal them.

Jared just released 2 new Elbow Pain protocols on TrainingBeta last week:

• Inside Elbow Injury Protocol
• Outside Elbow Injury Protocol

Here are his other four protocols:

• Rotator Cuff Strain
• Neck Strain
• Shoulder Impingement
• Pulley Sprain

You can see a description of all of the protocols (which we’ve made available for $10 each) at www.trainingbeta.com/rock-rehab.

Jared Vagy Professional Credentials

Dr. Vagy is an authority on climbing related injuries. He has published numerous articles on injury prevention and delivers lectures and seminars on the topic. He received his Doctorate in Physical Therapy (DPT) from the University of Southern California, ranked the number one DPT Program in the nation for the last decade by US News and World Report. He is now a professor at the University in the DPT Program. As a Doctor of Physical Therapy in clinical practice, he went on to complete a one year residency program in orthopedics and a one year fellowship program in movement science. He is a Board Certified Orthopedic Clinical Specialist and a Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist.

Dr. Jared Vagy Interview Details

• How elbow injuries happen
• What the different elbow injuries are
• How to figure out what injury you have
• When to start climbing again
• How to heal the elbow injury
• How to avoid elbow injuries in the future

Supporting Documents from Podcast

• Ulnar Nerve Mobility Exercise Level 1 and Level 2
• Video of proper elbow form while climbing a warm-up
• Video of proper elbow form while climbing a harder boulder
• Cupping tools he uses

Rock Rehab Protocol Links

• Inside Elbow Pain
• Outside Elbow Pain
• Finger Pulley Sprain
• Shoulder Impingement
• Rotator Cuff Strain
• Neck Strain

• Jared’s book, Climb Injury Free
• Website: www.theclimbingdoctor.com
• Instagram: @theclimbingdoctor

Training Programs for You

Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone…

• Personal Training Online:  www.trainingbeta.com/mercedes
• For Boulderers: Bouldering Training Program for boulderers of all abilities
• For Route Climbers: Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities
• Finger Strength : www.trainingbeta.com/fingers
• All of our training programs: Training Programs Page

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Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

Transcript

Coming soon…