TBP 116 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Healing Finger Injuries 2018-12-14T15:30:26+00:00

Project Description

Jared Vagy on Healing Finger Injuries in Climbers

Date: December 13th, 2018

trainingbeta podcast


About Jared Vagy, Doctor of Physical Therapy

Dr. Jared Vagy is a physical therapist, and he’s a climber who’s incredibly motivated to help other climbers heal their bodies. In this interview, we talk about how to heal common finger injuries in climbers. It’s the longest interview I’ve ever done! It’s super in-depth and he describes exact protocols to use on finger injuries, so I hope it helps you out.

In my first interview with Dr. Vagy on the podcast we talked in general about how to heal injuries, but since that time he has gotten way more specific about the steps we need to take to address them. In our second interview he talked about how to heal shoulder impingement using his new Rock Rehab Pyramid protocol. In our third interview, we talked about rotator cuff injuries and neck strain.

Jared recently wrote a paperback book all about healing climbing injuries called Climb Injury-Free. In it, he describes his 4-step pyramid to healing injuries:

rock rehab pyramid

In the book he discusses injuries of all kinds, but in this interview we focus on finger pulley sprains and finger injuries in general.

We just released his new Finger Pulley Sprain protocol on TrainingBeta yesterday:

Here are his other three protocols if you’re interested in learning more about them:

You can see a description of all of the protocols (which he’s made available for $10 each) at www.trainingbeta.com/rock-rehab.

Jared Vagy Professional Credentials

Dr. Vagy is an authority on climbing related injuries. He has published numerous articles on injury prevention and delivers lectures and seminars on the topic. He received his Doctorate in Physical Therapy (DPT) from the University of Southern California, ranked the number one DPT Program in the nation for the last decade by US News and World Report. He is now a professor at the University in the DPT Program. As a Doctor of Physical Therapy in clinical practice, he went on to complete a one year residency program in orthopedics and a one year fellowship program in movement science. He is a Board Certified Orthopedic Clinical Specialist and a Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist.

Dr. Jared Vagy Interview Details

  • How finger injuries happen
  • What the different finger injuries are
  • How to figure out what injury you have
  • When to start climbing again
  • How to heal the finger injury
  • How to avoid finger injuries in the future

Rock Rehab Protocol Links 

Training Programs for You

Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone…

climbing training programs

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Coming soon.

TrainingBeta is a site dedicated to training for rock climbing. We provide resources and information about training for routes, bouldering, finger strength, mental training, nutrition for climbers, and everything in between. We offer climbing training programs, a blog, interviews on the TrainingBeta Podcast, personal training for climbing, and nutrition for climbers.

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