A Training Program for Route Climbers

The Training Program for Route Climbers is your roadmap to gaining more strength and endurance on routes. It’s all laid out for you by a climbing trainer so you don’t have to plan anything. The workouts and drills are scalable to any level of difficulty, so it’ll help no matter how hard you currently climb.

  • 3 unique workouts every week
  • Climbing, core, hangboard, campusing
  • Injury prevention and weight training
  • Videos for every workout
  • Access from any device
  • Access to 6 weeks of workouts at a time
  • Scalable for all climbers

Try It Free for 2 Weeks

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Dead Point Magazine’s Review

bouldering training program“The program is extremely simple to follow due to the clean layout of the website… What makes this program stand apart from other training books is the clearly-defined “do-this-then-this” format. As long as you’re injury free and prepared to work hard, you don’t need any knowledge of training to begin your personal program. Will these programs make you a better climber? That’s up to you.”

 –Mikey Williams, Dead Point Magazine

Climbing a lot will only get you so much stronger.

Most climbers don’t fail on their projects due to not climbing enough. We usually fail to send our projects because we’re climbing too much and not training enough. At a certain point, seeing gains in your climbing requires weight training, core training, campusing, fitness training, fingerboarding, and injury prevention. And climbing. 

So we joined forces with coveted climbing trainer Kris Peters to create a super easy-to-follow Route Climbing Training Program to keep you balanced and strong all year. This program will make you stronger, fitter, and more powerful without the normally high cost of a trainer or the confusion of trying to create a program yourself.

Your Training Schedule

Throughout the program, you’ll cycle through different 6-week training phases with 1-week rest periods between each cycle. You’ll cycle through all the necessary parts of training for route climbing, starting with a power endurance phase and move on from there, as the graphic below shows.

route training program
EXPLANATION: Each colored bubble represents one of the 11 (6-week) phases. Each arrow represents a rest week between each phase. After completing those 70 weeks, you’ll cycle back through to the beginning of the program. You will be able to see a maximum of 6 weeks of the program on your online dashboard at any given time. 

How You’ll Train and What You’ll Gain

This Training Program is for route climbers of all abilities. It’s designed for people who don’t have all day to train, with workouts maxing out at about 2 hours. You’ll train every aspect of route climbing in your 3 workouts every week, cycling through the 6-week phases described above.

Every workout is labeled in your dashboard with the icons below to tell you what you’ll be focusing on that day.

Power Endurance

Power Endurance

If you can do every move on your projects, but you can’t do all of them in a row, this program will give you the power endurance you need.

Finger Strength

Finger Strength

This program will help increase your all-important finger strength with fingerboard workouts, climbing workouts, and campus board workouts.

Power

Power

If you lack the ability to do big moves to small holds, this program will train your power with campus board workouts and specific climbing drills.

projecting icon for route climbing program

Projecting

The projecting days will help give you the mental and physical stamina you need to climb strong outside all day.

weight lifting icon for training programs

Weight Lifting

Research shows that lifting weights increases strength, so you’ll be using weights to improve finger, shoulder, and core strength, as well as for injury prevention.

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Cardio

Whether we like it or not, long routes require cardio fitness, so this program will help you gain that with jogs, bike rides, elliptical, or however you choose to get the job done.

performance test

Progress Tracking

Every three weeks you’ll be asked to do the performance test, which is how you’ll track your progress in climbing, finger strength, overall strength, and fitness.

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Rest

Rest weeks are worked into the program every 7th week so that you can recover properly and keep improving. You can still climb lightly – you just won’t be training.

Equipment You’ll Need

Necessary Equipment

  • Route climbing wall
    • Smart Phone, tablet, or computer
      • Set of dumbbells and ankle weights
        • Fingerboard
          • Short rope or pulley system
            • Theraband
              • TRX or a set of gymnastic rings

              Optional Equipment

              • Pull up bar (you can use your hangboard instead, though)

               

              route climbing training program

              Try It Free for 2 Weeks

               

              Video Instruction for Each Exercise

               

              Here’s just one of the many videos you’ll find in the program. They’re all right there on your dashboard for you, so you never have to leave the workout page.

              All of the exercises in the program are accompanied by a video showing you how to do the exercise properly and how to make it easier or harder. It’s important to be able to see how something is done – not just read about it.

              Your Trainer, Kris Peters

               

              Your trainer for this route program is Kris Peters of Boulder, Colorado. He’s also the creator of our 6-Week Power Endurance Program and our Bouldering Strength and Power Program here at TrainingBeta (see his full bio on the About Kris Peters page). He’s one of the top climbing trainers in the U.S., and has worked with pro-level climbers, including Daniel Woods, Sasha DiGiulian, Alex Johnson, Emily Harrington, Matt Segal, Matty Hong, and many others.

              However, luckily for the rest of us, he doesn’t just work with genetic mutants. He works with climbers of all levels every day, training people one-on-one, in group sessions, and online. Kris has been training climbers since 2010, and athletes of all kinds since 2004. With many certificates as a Personal Trainer, Kris is highly qualified to guide you through this comprehensive climbing training program.

              Pricing

              If you were to get personal training from Kris or any other climbing trainer out there, it would cost you at least $60/hour, which means you’d be spending at least $720/month for the 3 days a week you’ll get with Kris in this program. This program allows you to get comprehensive, step-by-step training for a very small fraction of that price.

              Monthly

              $1499monthly
              • 3 Workouts/Wk
              • Access To Dashboard
              • Monthly Q&A Webinars
              • 14-Day Free Trial

              Yearly
              (Best Value)

              $14995yearly
              • 2 Months Free ($12.49/mo)
              • 3 Workouts/Wk
              • Access To Dashboard
              • Monthly Q&A Webinars
              • 14-Day Free Trial

              6-Month

              $80956 mo
              • Save $8.99 ($13.49/mo)
              • 3 Workouts/Wk
              • Access To Dashboard
              • Monthly Q&A Webinars
              • 14-Day Free Trial


              payment

              guarantee

              Our Guarantee

              We stand by a 100% 30-day Money-Back Guarantee, so you can feel totally secure knowing that if you’re not completely satisfied with what you’re getting, we’ll give you your money back – no questions, no hassles.

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              What Happens After I Sign Up?

              After you sign up, you’ll get an email that will give you immediate access to more instructions, more training info, and your dashboard, where you’ll find your first week of workouts. New workouts will be added to your dashboard every week after that, and you’ll be able to see up to 6 weeks at a time..

              workout

              Workouts

              There are 3 workouts/wk, except for rest weeks (every 7th week). Two of the workouts include climbing drills, and the 3rd is a more focused training day. All days include some core, shoulder, strength, or fitness exercises, depending on the 6-week phase. You’ll be doing your climbing drills mostly on routes, but sometimes on boulders.

              climbing training program

              Have Questions?

              If you ever have any questions throughout the program, you can email us at info@trainingbeta.com or give us a call at 650-731-5615 and we’ll answer you promptly. We’re here to help.

              dashboard-small

              Dashboard

              The dashboard contains your first week of workouts when you first sign up. After that, you’ll get 3 new workouts each week, and your dashboard will display up to 6 weeks of workouts.

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              Free Trial

              You get a 14-day free trial with any of the memberships, and you can cancel at any time. We want you to be able to see the program and use it so you can be sure it’s what you want before you commit to paying anything.

              value

              Incredible Value

              To get this kind of well laid out, day-by-day training plan, you’d have to pay a trainer a LOT of money. This plan is effective AND affordable for any route climber year-round.

              Frequently Asked Questions

              They take anywhere from 1 to 2.5 hours, but almost always less than 2 hours. You can modify the program, depending on how many sets you choose to do of each exercise (given your current fitness level), and how much time you have available. We tried to make this doable for even busy climbers. Plus, we have found that it doesn’t take as much time to get stronger if you’re training the right way.

              No, you can do as many or as few of the training days as you want, or as your schedule allows. We understand that not everyone has time to train 3 days a week, so you are welcome to skip or add days as your schedule allows.

              Our philosophy is that some training is better than no training, so if you can only do 1 day in the gym per week some weeks, so be it. We think people do better at attaining their goals when they have a plan in their hands, and this is your weekly/monthly/yearly template to work from.

              You should climb outside as often as you want – it’s totally encouraged. Everyone is different in their schedules and their requirements for rest days, so you’ll need to figure out how many days a week is best for you to climb.

              Since this is an ongoing program, you might use these workouts 3 days a week during the winter and then only 1 or 2 in the fall during prime climbing season (or vice versa depending on what your seasons look like). And that’s totally fine. These workouts are here to support you in getting stronger, but if climbing outside is making you happy and taking the place of some of the climbing days we’ve laid out for you, then that’s awesome!

              If you’re a weekend warrior, try to do the fingerboard or campus workout (whichever it is that week) on Tuesday and then one of the climbing workouts on Thursday, then climb outside on the weekends. If that’s too much, just do one of those workouts during the week – maybe on Wednesday instead to give yourself more rest days.

              Also, know that training like this will likely make you more tired than usual. Your outdoor (and indoor) performance may suffer, but that’s a good thing. It means you’re getting stronger. If you’re trying to send something, just back off the training for a while and come back to it when you’re ready.

              Both route climbers and boulderers would benefit from this program. This program focuses on improving your strength, power, and power endurance, and when you improve your performance in those areas you’re improving your overall climbing ability. However, this program is specifically built to accommodate route climbers who have access to a route wall or an outdoor area with a lot of variety. There is some bouldering in this program, but you will be using route wall to complete many of the exercises.

              If you are looking to get stronger as a boulderer, we would recommend you take a look at our Bouldering Strength and Power Program. It has a very similar format to this program, however it focusses a little more on strength and power and doesn’t require a route climbing wall.

              The short answer is yes, with some modifications. The program assumes that you are climbing routes that are around 25-40 moves long. So, whenever the program says, “climb a route”, you can make up bouldering circuit or climb multiple problems in a row to get the equivalent number of moves at a similar grade.

              Yes, absolutely. In fact, this might be the best option for an all around climber who wants a large variety of workouts to choose from.

              We have designed a tabbed interface into the dashboard, so each program is displayed in a different tab. With a subscription to both programs you will have access to 6 unique new workouts each week. This variety will will provide you with the ability to mix and match workouts and create a more custom experience.

              It depends on how long you stick with it and how precisely you follow it. It also depends on what level of climbing you’re starting from.

              If you were to push yourself hard and stick with at least most of the program, you could take your climbing up a number grade or 2 within a couple months on this program, especially if your max ability is below V6. If you just take it easy on yourself and don’t do many of the sets and miss the workouts every week, your progress will obviously be slower. It’s up to you. The longer you stay on it, the stronger you can potentially get!

              Any time! It’s best to start this training program at a time when you want to get stronger, which is pretty much always 🙂 Seriously, though, any time is a good time to add some training into your schedule, unless you have a comp or a trip coming up in just a week or less, in which case you should be tapering and not training hard. Anyone else could stand to put 1-3 focused training days into their schedule.

              No, but it is cyclical. It’s hard to create a periodized training schedule that serves everyone because everyone has different goals at different times (ex: I want to climb my hardest route this coming April, so I have x number of months to get to my peak). So we created a program that will cycle between power endurance, power, and strength.

              Having said that, even during the power endurance and power phases, you’ll be building finger strength on the hangboard. And even during the strength phase, you’ll be doing some power training on the campus board. And through all the phases, you’ll be maintaining your overall fitness. And don’t worry, there’s plenty of rest built into the program (one week off of intense training every 7th week) between phases to help you recover and continue improving.

              Here’s the deal with the cardio. Kris deals with a lot of people who are physically just downright unfit. They can’t run a mile without feeling like they’re going to pass out, and it takes them over 10 minutes to do it.

              Having a low level of fitness will not help your climbing, and working on your overall fitness will make you able to deal with doing more climbing in a day and push through being in pain (the good kind) so you can try harder in general.

              If you’re super physically fit already, then skip the cardio or just do what you normally do for it. Daniel Woods is not a runner, but Kris has watched him crush the treadmill at the gym. He’s super fit and it shows in his climbing.

              That means that Kris isn’t worried about having him run 3 days a week, or ever. If you have a base level of fitness, meaning you can walk up hills with a pack on, or jog comfortably for a mile, or ride your bike across town at a good pace without huffing and puffing, then skip it.

              The videos will actually tell you how to make exercises easier or harder. For instance, on the campus board, you can put your feet on the footholds and do the moves, or you’ll be instructed just to deadhang. For pull-ups, we’ll show you how to do negative pull-ups or jumping pull-ups so you can work up to the real thing.
              Every 3 weeks, you’ll be given a fitness or strength challenge, which is meant to track your progress. We’ll instruct you to record your results from those challenges so you can look back and see how much you’ve improved over time. In general, though, you’ll start to see improvements in your ability to recover, climb more difficult routes in a session, and more of them in a row. We recommend keeping notes in a journal, on your “notes” app in your phone, or in an online journal app. If you find a good one for climbing, please let us know at info@trainingbeta.com – we’d love to hear about it!

              That depends on whether you’re trying to climb hard outside at the moment or not.

              If you’re trying to climb hard outside…

              1 Day During the Week

              Then consider cutting down the workouts to 1 or 2 per week during the weekdays, and then climb hard outside during the weekend. If you’re just going to do one day of climbing during the week, do one fingerboard/campus board workout and warm up by climbing up to 2 grades below your limit. Do this preferably on Tuesday or Wednesday so you have plenty of time to recover for the weekend.

              2 Days During the Week

              If you’re going to do 2 days during the week, then do 1 fingerboard/campus board workout and one climbing workout on maybe Tuesday and Wednesday, or Tuesday and Thursday during the week. Do the fingerboard/campus board workout on the first training day during the week so you have plenty of time to recover before the weekend.

              3 Days During the Week

              If you insist on doing all the workouts during the week and want to climb both days on the weekend, then do one workout on Monday, one workout on Wednesday, and the last one on Thursday. That way you at least have 1 day of rest before the weekend. That’s honestly too much climbing for most people, so we’d suggest just climbing on Saturday with this schedule so you have Sunday to rest.

              If you’re not trying to climb hard outside…

              Then schedule the 3 workouts whenever you can fit them in your schedule while making sure you get enough rest. You want to have at least 1 day of rest on either side of your fingerboard/campus board workout, so that’s really the only defining rule. Maybe do a climbing day on Monday, a fingerboard/campus board day on Thursday, and a climbing day on Saturday. Or something along those lines.

              Yes, every route climber can benefit from gaining strength, power endurance, power, and cardio fitness. If you’re worried about the campusing workouts, don’t worry: we’ll let you know if you should be campusing given your current ability level, and what to do instead of the campus workout if you’re not there yet. We’ll do the same with every other exercise. The last thing we want is for you to get hurt!
              You can cancel your membership by logging in to your account and going to “My Account” and clicking on the cancel button. You can cancel at any time. 
              When you cancel your membership with us, you no longer have access to the workouts. If you log in without a current membership, you won’t be able to see your dashboard anymore.
              Having 6 weeks of current workouts on your dashboard will help mitigate any of these issues, but if you ever need your dashboard to display something else, you can just email us at info@trainingbeta.com, and we’ll get back to you quickly.

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               5 reviews
              by Jeffrey Yong Thian Huang on Route Climbing Training Program
              I just felt great!

              just wanted to let you know how training beta has helped me not only in my climbing but had a profound impact on my life as well.just some background on me, i currently work as a full time dentist in Perth , Western Australia and I have been climbing since I moved to Perth from Malaysia about 4 years ago. for the first 2 years progress was good, i picked up trad, sport, bouldering and fell in love with the sport. I do not train but i was making steady progress like any beginner, at that point I can red point up to 6b.I had a bad fall about 2 years ago in Arapiles, it was a trad climb and the last gear palcement was slightly runned off and I slipped and fell and broke an ankle. It took a long time to recover but i was climbing in 5 - 6 months time. I figured I will need about a month or two to pick up where I left off.but2months became a year and I was stuck a few grades below what i originally climb with little or no progress. I felt pumped even before I started climbing in the gym, I consciously avoid slabs ( i fell off on a slab climb), I get tired very easily, my confidence was shot. I reasoned (wrongly) that I will need to ramp up my climbing in the gym, at one point I was climbing in the gym after work for long sessions, flailing and just falling off routes, eventually it affected my work; dental extractions was getting very tiring (believe me hard extractions take a considerable amount of forearm strength, you will get pumped!), my fingers were shaking and that is the last thing that I want! Slowly this affected my mood and overall health, i just felt bad the whole time and i wasnt having fun climbing anymore.one day, my wife just casually mentioned to me that maybe my habits are wrong, i should read up and think about organising my time and make full use of it. I stumbled on your website while reading dr jared vargys warm up routine, and I started reading all the articles you posted and suddenly it hit me. I was just wasting my time and my energy, I decided ok lets give this route training routine a shot and lets do some habit changes.I started working 5 days now instead of 6 and a half days, I spaced out my hard dental extraction days throughout the week. I started eating nutritiously (ironically my wife is a dietitian and I am her worst patient) that is planned by my wife. i train in the gym 2 - 3 times a week, following the routine as best I can and this time I take my time and warm up well.That was 4 months ago, now not only my dental work is much more efficient and I am can see the same amount of patients in 5 days compared to last time! I became more confident, I do not get pumped easily while climbing and my grades are climbing back up and I recover so much faster. I just felt great! Even better, when I went back to Malaysia to see the family, I went climbing with my wife and I onsighted a 30m 6c+ limestone route on my only day of climbing in malaysia. Recently I was bouldering and I sent my first v6 as well.Thanks!Jeff

              IT'S FRICKING AWESOME!

              Unlike most programs that I've tried (and I've tried a bunch from Steve Bechtel's climbstrong.com site as well as the Anderson brother's Rock Prodigy system) it gives us more opportunities to climb for both myself and my climbing partner. We don't get many opportunities to get outside due to family obligations and so we need a program that is tailored for someone who can get in a solid 2-2.5 hours of climbing/training 3 days a week. Your program hits that sweet spot perfectly.For me, the climbing work is the best part and I have seen an improvement in my confidence on lead, as well as my skill, strength and endurance on the rock. Since starting the program last summer I've bumped my onsight average to a solid 12a and am pushing 12c/12d redpoints with little fear of injury. IT'S FRICKING AWESOME!The only part of the program that I'm not keen on is the non-climbing, strength portion. While I like the variety in the programming and the core workouts are great, I like measurable improvements to keep me motivated, so I'm trying a hybrid which uses the climbing work combined with some basic lifting work to round out my whole body strength. I'll mix in some of the core workout ideas, from the program, but will have to balance that with the lifting which I actually enjoy.So far, this is the best program that I've used. A little tweaking here and there but all in all, it has provided me with the pieces I've needed to move my climbing up the grades when it has been largely flat for the past couple of years. Thanks for that.- Phil Keslin

              I already feel like the program is working

              I just recently started the Route Training program (I'm on week 2) and have been really happy with it so far! I consider myself a pretty fit climber, where I was incorporating weight training and cardio with my gym climbing sessions already, but I felt like I needed a little more structure to my workouts and motivation to get to the gym on busy weeks. So, your program has been great that I have the flexibility to fit the three workouts in to my (sometimes hectic) schedule and the higher intensity has been kicking my butt! A perfect example is the week 1 day 1 workout, which is really similar to my regular gym sessions but the rapid succession of reps and sets on the fitness round left me sore for three days 🙂 So, I already feel like the program is working and I look forward to the variety in the workouts. The website is also very intuitive and easy to use, and I've received prompt responses from TrainingBeta when I had questions. I also listened to your Ketogenics podcast on the train last night and found it very informative. So, thanks for all your hard work and I appreciate your effort in creating a quality product!Mike

              by Jake Quartuccio on Route Climbing Training Program
              Helps to take the “thinking” out of climbing

              Here are a few thoughts about the route climbing program.I really like the after climbing exercises. The ring push ups are my favorite.Coaches are really useful for telling you when you are being a bitch or when you need to take rest. I like the route program because it forces me to acknowledge when I need rest like a coach would, but I don't have to pay for a coach.The program helps to take the “thinking” out of climbing that you would have to do if you read the climbing training books. I used to go to the gym and just thrash around on the hardest boulder problem or route that I can do. And, taking knowledge from a book and applying it is very difficult. Now, with a set program that was not made by me, I'm way more purposeful in my climbing and working on different kinds of efforts (i.e. projecting, strength, power endurance, endurance).I train out with friends who can't climb at my level, but since this program works for any ability level, we are all able to do the same workout.

              from 11a to 12a

              First off, some praise for the site and podcast. I'm someone who reads obsessively about training for climbing. Every article, blog, and video I can find gets eaten right up. I'll re-read things when I run out of new content, and I'll watch training videos as I fall asleep. TrainingBeta has been the best thing to happen to me since I learned how to lead. A site that does all the searching for me, compiles it in one place, and categorizes it all. Not in my wildest dreams did I imagine that would ever happen, and you and the TB crew have done it really really well. I love being able to hit one bookmark instead of 30, and know that its all going to be there. You've done an awesome job drawing from the cream of the crop, finding reputable sources, and posting the full range of content, from 2 move boulder problem training to nutrition and rehab. And producing a podcast that talks to the creators and stars of these blogs and videos is the icing on top of the send-cake. Its so great hearing about their specific experiences, the resources they use, what they've found to work, and their struggles. Its tough for an average Joe like me to reach out from frozen Canada to ask J-Star about his training philosophies and endless stoke, and to be able to pull out my phone and get the answers to all my questions is the best! The quality of the production is excellent, and you're constantly bringing in interesting, well spoken, and knowledgable guests to share their experience. ITS THE BEST!!!On to the training programs. I've been a subscriber to the route climbing program, and once again, you've found a big hurdle in training and addressed it. With all the info out there, its hard to sort through and figure out what I should actually be doing! I'm sure with little effort I could find two articles that suggest doing the complete opposite style of workout for the same result. While they both may be right in their own way, it just about takes a PHD (which I'm pretty sure I don't have) to figure out which one is best for me. With the route climbing training program, instead of beating my head against a wall I can just pull out my phone and follow the steps. All the scheduling, decisions, and headache are gone. Just follow the workout, and BOOM, results. After following the program for a year (two Canadian climbing seasons), I took my personal best from an 11a to a 12a, and I'm positive the direction and consistency of the TB program was the major factor contributing to my success. I have my fingers crossed for more improvement in the near future, and I'll be sure to give Training Beta credit in the video of me sending Sharma's latest project.I hope this helps you stay stoked to do what you do, because its awesome and you do it well!!! Thanks for all the work you're putting into the site, programs, and podcasts!!!!!!Cheers,Ben