A Training Program Just for Boulderers

Here is your roadmap to gaining more strength and power on boulder problems. This online bouldering training program is laid out for you by a climbing trainer so you don’t have to plan anything. The workouts and drills are scalable to any level of climber, so it’ll help no matter how hard you currently boulder.

  • 3 unique workouts/week
  • Climbing, core, hangboard, campusing
  • Injury prevention and weight training
  • Videos for every workout
  • Access from any device
  • Bouldering Wall Drills
  • Scalable for all abilities

Start 2-Week Free Trial

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Dead Point Magazine’s Review

bouldering training program“The program is extremely simple to follow due to the clean layout of the website… What makes this program stand apart from other training books is the clearly-defined “do-this-then-this” format. As long as you’re injury free and prepared to work hard, you don’t need any knowledge of training to begin your personal program. Will these programs make you a better climber? That’s up to you.” Read full review.

 –Mikey Williams, Dead Point Magazine

Most Climbers Don’t Fail on Their Projects Due to Lack of Trying Hard…

We usually fail to send our projects because we haven’t adequately trained for them. Climbing a lot will only get you so much stronger.

Seeing big gains in your climbing requires weight training, core training, campusing, fitness training, and fingerboarding. And climbing. And it requires specific injury prevention exercises.

We joined forces with climbing trainer Kris Peters to create this all-encompassing and super easy-to-follow Bouldering Strength and Power training program.

It will make you stronger, fitter, and more powerful without the normally high cost of a trainer or the headache of trying to create a program yourself.

Your Training Schedule

Throughout the program, you’ll cycle through different 6-week training phases with 1-week rest periods between each cycle. You’ll cycle through all the necessary parts of training for bouldering, starting with a power endurance phase and move on from there, as the graphic below shows.

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EXPLANATION: Each colored bubble represents one of the 11 (6-week) phases. Each arrow represents a rest week between each phase. After completing those 77 weeks (roughly a year and a half), you’ll cycle back through to the beginning of the program. You will be able to see a maximum of 6 weeks of the program on your online dashboard at any given time. 

How You’ll Train and What You’ll Gain

This Bouldering Strength and Power Training Program is for boulderers of all abilities. You get 3 unique workouts every week. The program trains every aspect of climbing, and in your dashboard you’ll find that every workout is labeled with the icons below to tell you if you’ll be training Power, Power Endurance, Finger Strength, Projecting, or Resting that day. Often you’ll be doing more than one of those things during each workout.

Power Endurance

Power Endurance

If you have a climb you want to send and you can do every move, but you can’t do all of them in a row, this program will give you the power endurance you need.

Finger Strength

Finger Strength

If your fingers need to get stronger to grab smaller holds, this program will train that with finger board workouts, climbing workouts, and campus board workouts.

Power

Power

If you lack the ability to do big moves and then grab small holds, this program will train your power with campus board workouts and specific bouldering drills.

Projecting

Projecting

If you only have a few good burns in you every day on your project, and you want to climb harder for longer, this program will give you the mental and physical stamina you need to project strong all day.

Core and fitness

Fitness and Core

If your core and big muscle groups could use some strengthening to keep you on those steep boulders, you will gain overall fitness and core strength in every workout of this program.

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Rest

Rest weeks happen after each 6-week phase so that you can recover properly and keep improving. On rest weeks, you can still climb – you just won’t be doing weights, fingerboarding, or campusing.

Equipment You Need

  • Bouldering Wall
    • Smart Phone, tablet, or computer
      • Set of dumbbells
        • Set of ankle weights
          • Fingerboard
            • Short rope, doubled up theraband, or a pulley system to take weight off for your fingerboard exercises 
              • Theraband
              • Optional Equipment

                • TRX or a set of gymnastic rings
                  • Pull up bar (you can use your hangboard instead, though)


                  Nick’s Success on The Program

                  The training program has massively helped my climbing (I’ve subscribed to the bouldering program since it launched)! This year I’ve sent 37 7A/V6 or harder boulder problems, including four 7Bs/V8s, having managed just two in 2014.

                  I think the program has been a big factor in that, so thanks!!

                  -Nick

                  Video Instruction for Each Exercise

                   

                  All of the exercises in the program are accompanied by a video showing you how to do the exercise properly and how to make it easier or harder.

                  It’s important to be able to see how something is done – not just read about it.

                  Here’s just one of the many videos you’ll find in the program. They’re all right there on your dashboard for you, so you never have to leave the workout page.

                  Who Is Your Trainer?

                   

                  The author of this Bouldering Strength and Power Training Program is Kris Peters of Denver, Colorado. He’s also the author of our 6-Week Power Endurance Program here at TrainingBeta (see his full bio). He’s one of the top climbing trainers in the U.S., and has worked with pro-level climbers, including Daniel Woods, Sasha DiGiulian, Alex Johnson, Emily Harrington, Matt Segal, Matty Hong, and many others.

                  However, luckily for the rest of us, he doesn’t just work with genetic mutants. He works with climbers of all levels every day, training people one-on-one, in group sessions, and from a distance with climbers all over the world.

                  Kris has been training climbers since 2010, and athletes of all kinds since 2004. With many certificates as a Personal Trainer, Kris is highly qualified to guide you through this comprehensive climbing training program.

                  Pricing

                  If you were to get personal training from Kris or any other climbing trainer out there, it would cost you at least $60/hour. If you were to train with that person 3 times a week (like you do in this program), you’d be spending up to $1,680/month to get stronger. This program allows you to get comprehensive, step-by-step training for a very small fraction of that price.

                  Monthly

                  $1499monthly
                  • 3 Workouts/Wk
                  • Access To Dashboard
                  • Monthly Q&A Webinars
                  • 14-Day Free Trial

                  Yearly
                  (Best Value)

                  $14995yearly
                  • 2 Months Free! ($12.49/mo)
                  • 3 Workouts/Wk
                  • Access To Dashboard
                  • Monthly Q&A Webinars
                  • 14-Day Free Trial

                  6-Month

                  $80956 mo
                  • Save $8.99! ($13.49/mo)
                  • 3 Workouts/Wk
                  • Access To Dashboard
                  • Monthly Q&A Webinars
                  • 14-Day Free Trial

                  14-DAY FREE TRIAL WITH ANY MEMBERSHIP

                  (Cancel at any time)

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                  Our Guarantee

                  We stand by a 100% 30-day Money-Back Guarantee, so you can feel totally secure knowing that if you’re not completely satisfied with what you’re getting, we’ll give you your money back – no questions, no hassles.

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                  What Happens After I Sign Up?

                  After you sign up, you’ll get an email that will give you immediate access to more instructions, more training info, and your dashboard, where you’ll find your first week of workouts. New workouts will be added to your dashboard every week after that, and you’ll be able to see up to 6 weeks at a time.

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                  Workouts

                  There are 3 workouts/wk, except for rest weeks (every 7th week). Two of the workouts include bouldering drills, and the third is either a fingerboard or a campus board session. All days also include core, shoulder, strength, and/or fitness exercises, as well.

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                  Have Questions?

                  If you ever have any questions throughout the program, you can email us at info@trainingbeta.com or give us a call at 650-731-5615 and we’ll answer you promptly. We’re here to help.

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                  Dashboard

                  The dashboard contains your first week of workouts when you first sign up. After that, you’ll get 3 new workouts each week, and your dashboard will display up to 6 weeks of workouts.

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                  Free Trial

                  You get a 14-day free trial with any of the memberships, and you can cancel at any time. We want you to be able to see the program and use it so you can be sure it’s what you want before you commit to paying anything.

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                  Incredible Value

                  To get this kind of well-laid out, day-by-day training plan, you’d have to pay a trainer in-person thousands of dollars. This plan is effective AND affordable for any boulderer year-round.

                  Frequently Asked Questions

                  Here are some commonly asked questions about the Bouldering Strength and Power Program. If you still have questions after reading through these, please email us at info@trainingbeta.com and we’ll get back to you ASAP.

                  They take anywhere from 1 to 2.5 hours, depending on how many sets you choose to do of each exercise, and how much time you have available. We tried to make this doable for even busy climbers. Plus, the research shows that it doesn’t take much to get stronger if you’re training the right way.
                  No, you can do as many or as few of the training days as you want, or as your schedule allows. We understand that not everyone has time to train 3 days a week and then climb outside sometimes, as well. Our philosophy is that some training is better than no training, so if you can only do 1 day in the gym per week, so be it. We think people do better at attaining their goals when they have a plan in their hands, and this is your weekly/monthly/yearly template to work from.
                  You should climb outside as often as you want – it’s totally encouraged. Everyone is different in their schedules and their requirements for rest days, so you’ll need to figure out how many days a week is best for you to climb. Since this is an ongoing program, you might use these workouts 3 days a week during the winter and then only 1 or 2 in the fall during prime climbing season (or vice versa depending on what your seasons look like). And that’s totally fine. These workouts are here to support you in getting stronger, but if climbing outside is making you happy and taking the place of some of the climbing days we’ve laid out for you, then good for you.

                  If you’re a weekend warrior, try to do the fingerboard or campus workout (whichever it is that week) on Tuesday and then one of the climbing workouts on Thursday, then climb outside on the weekends. If that’s too much, just do one of those workouts during the week – maybe on Wednesday instead to give yourself more rest days.

                  Route climbers would benefit from this program because whenever you improve your strength, power, and power endurance, you’re improving your overall climbing ability, and that’s what this program trains. But this program is built to accommodate boulderers who train pretty exclusively on an indoor bouldering wall. There is no route climbing in this program. Here’s a link to our Route Climbing Training Program if you’re interested in that. 
                  It depends on how long you stay on it and how precisely you follow it. If you were to push yourself hard and stick with at least most of the program, you could take your climbing up a number grade or 2 within a couple months on this program, especially if your max ability is below V6. If you just take it easy on yourself and don’t do many of the sets and miss the workouts every week, your progress will obviously be slower. It’s up to you. The longer you stay on it, the stronger you can potentially get!
                  Any time! It’s best to start this training program at a time when you want to get stronger, which is pretty much always \:) Seriously, though, any time is a good time to add some training into your schedule, unless you have a comp or a trip coming up in just a few short days, in which case you should be tapering and not training hard. Anyone else could stand to put 1-3 focused training days into their schedule.
                  No, but it is cyclical. It’s hard to create a periodized training schedule that serves everyone because everyone has different goals at different times (ex: I want to climb my hardest boulder problem this coming April, so I have x number of months to get to my peak). So we created a program that will cycle between power endurance, power, and strength.

                  Having said that, even during the power endurance and power phases, you’ll be building finger strength on the hangboard. And even during the strength phase, you’ll be doing some power training on the campus board. And through all the phases, you’ll be maintaining your overall fitness. And don’t worry, there’s plenty of rest built into the program (one week off of intense training every 7th week) between phases to help you recover and continue improving.

                  Here’s the deal with the cardio. Kris deals with a lot of people who are physically just downright unfit. They can’t run a mile without feeling like they’re going to pass out, and it takes them over 10 minutes to do it.

                  Having a low level of fitness will not help your climbing, and working on your overall fitness will make you able to deal with doing more climbing in a day and push through being in pain (the good kind) so you can try harder in general.

                  If you’re super physically fit already, then skip the cardio or just do what you normally do for it. Daniel Woods is not a runner, but Kris has watched him crush the treadmill at the gym. He’s super fit and it shows in his climbing.

                  That means that Kris isn’t worried about having him run 3 days a week, or ever. If you have a base level of fitness, meaning you can walk up hills with a pack on, or jog comfortably for a mile, or ride your bike across town at a good pace without huffing and puffing, then skip it.

                  The videos will actually tell you how to make exercises easier or harder. For instance, on the campus board, you can put your feet on the footholds and do the moves, or you’ll be instructed just to deadhang. For pull-ups, we’ll show you how to do negative pull-ups or jumping pull-ups so you can work up to the real thing.
                  At various intervals throughout the program, you’ll be given a few different fitness or strength challenges, which are meant to track your progress. We’ll instruct you to record your results from those challenges so you can look back and see how much you’ve improved over time. In general, though, you’ll start to see improvements in your ability to recover, climb more difficult problems in a session, and more of them in a row. We recommend keeping notes in a journal, on your “notes” app in your phone, or in an online journal app. If you find a good one for climbing, please let us know at info@trainingbeta.com – we’d love to hear about it!
                  That depends on whether you’re trying to climb hard outside at the moment or not.

                  If you’re trying to climb hard outside…

                  Here are some options.

                  1 Day During the Week

                  Then consider cutting down the workouts to 1 or 2 per week during the weekdays, and then climb hard outside during the weekend. If you’re just going to do one day of climbing during the week, do one fingerboard/campus board workout and warm up by climbing up to 2 grades below your limit. Do this preferably on Tuesday or Wednesday so you have plenty of time to recover for the weekend.

                  2 Days During the Week

                  If you’re going to do 2 days during the week, then do 1 fingerboard/campus board workout and one climbing workout on maybe Tuesday and Wednesday, or Tuesday and Thursday during the week. Do the fingerboard/campus board workout on the first training day during the week so you have plenty of time to recover before the weekend.

                  3 Days During the Week

                  If you insist on doing all the workouts during the week, then do one day of climbing on Monday, rest one day and do the fingerboard/campus board workout on Wednesday, and climb again on Thursday. That way you at least have 1 day of rest before the weekend.

                  If you’re not trying to climb hard outside…

                  Then schedule the 3 workouts whenever you can fit them in your schedule while making sure you get enough rest. You want to have at least 1 day of rest on either side of your fingerboard/campus board workout, so that’s really the only defining rule. Maybe do a climbing day on Monday, a fingerboard/campus board day on Thursday, and a climbing day on Saturday. Or something along those lines.

                  When you log in to your account, you’ll be able to see your current week (it will automatically move forward every week) and your 5 most recent weeks, so 6 weeks total. You’ll be able to see a description of the workouts you’ll be doing plus videos or pictures to show you exactly how to do them. 
                  You can cancel your membership by logging in to your account and going to “My Account” and clicking on the cancel button. You can cancel at any time. 
                  When you cancel your membership with us, you no longer have access to the workouts. If you log in without a current membership, you won’t be able to see your dashboard anymore.
                  Having 6 weeks of current workouts on your dashboard will help mitigate any of these issues, but if you ever need your dashboard to display something else, you can just email us at info@trainingbeta.com, and we’ll get back to you quickly.

                  What People Are Saying

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                  Average rating:  
                   9 reviews

                  Just wanted to let you all know how pleased I am with my subscription to the Bouldering Strength Training Program!  I had been stuck climbing at the v5 level for a couple of months and my body was constantly hurting--however, after just six weeks I have successfully sent a number of v7s and have never felt healthier/stronger! Again, so stoked.

                  TOTALLY helped me become a stronger climber

                  Trainingbeta feels like more of a community and has TOTALLY helped me become a stronger climber. Just having the workouts written down gives me much more motivation to train. I find the podcast fascinating so please keep it up.I signed up for the bouldering strength and power plan as soon as it came out and 70 something weeks later I'm still on it and really getting into this third cycle of training. Today's workout of 4x4s combined with circuit training was brilliant. This year I expect to achieve my life goal of climbing 5.13b - very excited so thanks for that.All the best,Tom Hall

                  by Philip Linton on Bouldering Training Program
                  The programme is excellent!!

                  I am currently doing the year long bouldering programme and have been doing it for 19 Weeks now. The programme is excellent!! not only is the content brilliant but it adds structure to my training. I only thought I was training before I started the programme! I have also had some really good results albeit only on plastic so far. The UK winter weather is never that good to get out on rock unfortunately. I am primarily a trad climber and I am looking forward to getting out, hopefully in a month or so, then I can really see some progress.I also listen to your podcasts, they are really interesting and informative. I know a lot of the climbers at my local gym also listen to the podcasts.Keep up the good work!!Philip Linton

                  I sent my first outdoor V7

                  My husband and I have been following the Bouldering Strength and Power training program for the past 10 months. We've both loved it and our fitness levels have improved a lot, which is a lot to say since we were already pretty fit people. 🙂 For me personally, I sent my first outdoor V7 a couple months ago at Hueco Tanks, which was really exciting. And we're both really close on a lot of our projects - hoping for more sends this climbing season! As I'm typing this my forearms and shoulders are really tired and sore from last night's workout. :)-Ginny Min

                  2 grades redpoint increase in 2 months!

                  I am a father of four and a boulderer to the core. Ha, get it, core.I train primarily on my home wall and focus on boulder development around my hometown. I've always felt that if I was less passionate about development and dedicated more time to training rather than hiking into the depths of the forest for some WAY smaller boulders than i saw on google earth, I would be quite strong. That said, I just turned 30 and as much as I want to pretend that doesn't matter I feel as though I should do something significant to mark my third decade. I have some hard sandstone projects lined up where the season is short and the rock is hard to access. I already went through most of a bouldering program from you guys last fall, it was awesome! I saw some huge strength gains in a small period of time. My grade perspective is off due to almost never climbing established lines but i would guess 2 grades redpoint increase in 2 months! I am planning on re enrolling this year to a powerbouldering program. My hope is I can show up to my lines this fall and take down the climbs my mind can see but my body can't bring to fruition. I know Training Beta has the tools i need to help me accomplish my goals.Thanks for doing what you do!In this case you are making my day dreams a reality!Andrew

                  by Ed Nakayama on Bouldering Training Program
                  So far it's been great

                  You guys are doing an awesome job. I love the site and the programming, even at my beginner level. I've seen some pretty remarkable advances in bouldering and route climbing levels, but more importantly have avoided injuries and generally feel pretty healthy. I think the advice to "just climb" for beginners is just inviting injury, which is why I hooked up with your program - so far it's been great.Ed Nakayama

                  I want to say thank you 🙂

                  My name is Mikhail and I'm from Moscow, Russia.I'm mobile games developer. I started rock climbing about 3 yearsago. A year ago I got bad leg injury on bouldering competition.So bad that I had three metal sticks in my right leg and had to livewith them five about weeks. After that I was restoring my ability to walk normal.It took me about two months. In august I’ve started to think about restoring my physical and climbing form.I didn’t want to go back to my coach because of his working hours. For me it was too early and I didn’t get appropriateamount of sleep, because I have to go to work early to get to the gym early. So I’ve started to search for some programs and found TrainingBeta.com. It was mentioned in Climbing Magazine. I’ve liked the way of training and started to restore my form using bouldering program.In three month I’ve restored my physical and climbing form and got back to my previous climbing grades. In next three month I was able to go further and climb a grade higher (6c+/7a). I’ve learn a lot from materials from your site about nutrition, about climbing. So I want to say thank you :)King regards. Mikhail.

                  I really like the online interface

                  I have signed up for the bouldering program, so here's my 50 pence worth of thoughts about how your (excellent!) program has helped me:I have been climbing for quite a few years on and off and have progressed steadily up the grades. Over the last year or so I have become motivated to climb harder and have been getting frustrated with my steady, but slow progress. So I bought various books including Eric Horst's book training for climbing, his mental training book, the Anderson brothers book and others! Don't get me wrong, all the books are brilliant, great resources, but they aren't a coach! Unfortunately for me I live in Essex in England. It is very flat and my closest rocks are a couple of hours drive away. With a smattering of climbing/bouldering walls nearby, but it isn't Sheffield and there aren't any coaches.So I have been training using Eric's book and trying to workout a plan of action to improve. What I have realised is that I don't have the knowledge that a decent coach has, regarding how to training, what to do when, how to mix it up and get the best from the time I have available. Like most of us, I work full time.I came across your podcasts first, absolutely fantastic, but, here's the nub of it, it made me realise again I knew even less about training and got slightly more confused with lots of differing and slightly conflicting points of view, ref training, diet, rest, periodisation and so on. Steve Bechtel's podcasts were ace by the way, get him back for more! His comments about speed gardening/farming were so funny.So at the beginning of Jan I decided to give Chris Peter's bouldering program a try. Money is tight so I plumped for the 1 year subscription, very good value and set to work. I am four/five weeks in and really enjoying it. I like the variation and even though I have really only just started I feel stronger and my power endurance has improved. My girlfriend laughs at me each Sunday when I get excited about the program for the next week. I love the variation of the workouts and with access to a basic gym and bouldering wall I feel I can complete the workouts prescribed.I really like the online interface and the videos are brilliant, they are closest I can get to a coach, but on saying that give me 6-12 months, so I can get some decent training under my belt I might spend big and go for the one-to-one online coaching. We shall see.So you have helped my get my training in order. i'll let you know when I start climbing some decent grades.There you go, my 50 pence worth. Hopefully it's a good read.Nick

                  The variety is great

                  Thought I would share my experience using your bouldering training thus far (it's only been 3 weeks).Pros:The variety is great.Having a structured well organized program has helped a lot.It's great to have visual aids to workouts that I'm not familiar with.My muscle endurance has improved slightly. I can tell that I'm able to push through 1 to 2 more moves than a month ago.Cons:Training and climbing outside. The weather has been very good and it's hard to keep from going outside while the rock is so sticky! I'm a 34yo now and I just can't climb outside 2-3 days a week and also train 3 days a week, I have to take a rest day or two to recover. So I have to pick and choose 1 or 2 of the workouts the weeks I'm outside. I just hope that I'm not sabotaging any potential gains from not sticking to the program 100% of the time.I'm only 3 weeks in but I can definitely see some improvement happening in the near term. Hopefully over the next few months I'll be able to put down some of my harder projects!Cheers,Jason


                  No, thanks. Take me to the other climbing training programs.