Project Description

5.11 Climber Hayley Thomas Gets Coached by Matt Pincus

Date: October 30th, 2019

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About Hayley Thomas 

Hayley Thomas is a 28-year-old climber out of Colorado who projects mid-5.11’s and wants to get stronger. She emailed me requesting that I have someone on to talk about how to train as a 5.11 climber, so I asked her if she’d be willing to join Matt Pincus and me on an episode to do just that.

This interview is not a normal TrainingBeta Podcast interview. It was a training session between a coach and an athlete, wherein Matt Pincus (our resident trainer) did what he’d do with any athlete who works with him: he got a bunch of background information on her, he watched some videos of her climbing before the interview, and during the interview he crafted a plan for her to follow for the next month.

The plan involves a detailed structure for her climbing days, her strength training days, and her rest days, which we quickly discovered she was not taking enough of. The tenets that were laid out for her are basic guidelines for many other climbers out there looking to get stronger, so even if you’re not as strong as – or you’re stronger than – a 5.11 climber, you will learn something from this interview.

I hope you like this episode format! I think I’m going to continue to have different types of climbers on and have Matt train them so we can get a broader view of how to individualize plans for people. If you want to train with Matt, you can find more info at

Hayley Thomas and Matt Pincus Interview Details

  • Background on Hayley’s current climbing abilities and her goals
  • Injuries she’s dealing with and how to train with them
  • How many days a week she’s currently climbing and how many she should
  • Detailed plan for the next month, including strength training
  • How she deals with hypermobility and frozen shoulder
  • She’s 28, 5’11” and she’s good at vertical tech-y climbing
  • Wants to improve to 5.12 and beyond

Hayley Thomas and Matt Pincus Links 

Training Programs for You

Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta…

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Photo Credit

Photo by Matt Black @crux_captures of Hayley


Coming soon.

TrainingBeta is a site dedicated to training for rock climbing. We provide resources and information about training for routes, bouldering, finger strength, mental training, nutrition for climbers, and everything in between. We offer climbing training programs, a blog, interviews on the TrainingBeta Podcast, personal training for climbing, and nutrition for climbers.

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