Project Description

Date: June 12th, 2019

trainingbeta podcast



About Sierra Blair-Coyle

Sierra Blair-Coyle is a well-known 25-year-old professional competitive climber from Arizona. She’s been doing well in national and world cup-level comps for well over a decade, and she’s one of the few females from the United States who consistently travels to World Cup events. Some of her recent standout achievements in climbing include the following:

  • Team USA (2010-2018)
  • 2018 PanAmerican Bouldering Champion
  • 1st 2018 Mesa Rim ProAM
  • 10th 2018 IFSC World Cup Hachioji
  • 10th 2018 Open Bouldering Nationals
  • 10th 2017 Open Bouldering Nationals

She is consistent and trains hard for her continued accomplishments, as you’ll find in the interview. You can see a full list of her comp results on her website here and on the IFSC website here.

Sierra is also known for her other career as a model and social media influencer. She has over 165k followers on Instagram and 386k followers on Facebook, where she posts positive shots and videos about her life as a professional athlete.

I wanted to talk with Sierra about what it’s like training for comp-style boulders, and we ended up discussing her training program in detail, as well as her impressive home gym set-up. She told me all about her strength training–and how her mom is her strength coach, as well as how she practices for comp-style boulders, and what her campus and hangboard sessions look like.

I also wanted to know what it’s like being as “famous” as she is in the climbing community and beyond. I imagined she’s gotten a lot of attention, both positive and negative, from her followers and other people online. We talked about the type of attention she appreciates, the kind of attention she absolutely doesn’t want from people, and some ground rules she’d like her fans to follow when sending her messages (wink, wink… she doesn’t like DP’s, guys).

I also asked her how she felt about the article that Andrew Bisharat wrote about her, called “Athlete or Model: What Is Sierra Blair-Coyle?” We talked about how the article and the ensuing negative comments hurt her quite a bit, but how she came out stronger on the other side of it.

We also talked about her diet (which is surprisingly similar to my own), and how she stays lean while still fueling her intense training and competition schedule.

Sierra Blair-Coyle Interview Details

  • Her typical weekly training schedule
  • How she practices comp-style boulders
  • The details of her campus, hangboard, and strength sessions
  • How she trains weaknesses
  • How her online persona compares with her real life
  • A typical day for her in Arizona
  • Her sick home gym set-up
  • Her diet

Sierra Blair-Coyle Links 

Training Programs for You

Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta…

climbing training programs

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Photo by @garpure and @mammutna of Sierra in Iceland.


Coming soon…

TrainingBeta is a site dedicated to training for rock climbing. We provide resources and information about training for routes, bouldering, finger strength, mental training, nutrition for climbers, and everything in between. We offer climbing training programs, a blog, interviews on the TrainingBeta Podcast, personal training for climbing, and nutrition for climbers.

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