Project Description

Date: July 24th, 2019

trainingbeta podcast



About Josh Larson

Josh Larson is the Head Coach and Route Setter for the adult National Climbing Team for USA Climbing. He was/is a competition climber himself, and he’s set routes for comps for years, so it was a natural progression for him to become the leader of the USAC team. Josh has also traveled the world as a professional climber and videographer and has a ton of beautiful climbing videos on the Cold House Media page on Vimeo.

I wanted to talk to Josh Larson because I’m an avid watcher of climbing competitions. I frickin’ LOVE watching Nationals and World Cup comps and always have. But when my friends and I get together to watch them, we always have questions about what in the world is going on with:

a) The olympics – just everything

b) How we could see more podium finishes by Americans

c) What USA Climbing is doing to support our athletes more now

As the Head Coach of the adult team working out of the new USA Climbing facility in Salt Lake City, I figured he’d be the perfect person to answer my burning questions. I thought we’d end up also talking a lot about the training he does with these athletes, but we mostly talked about a, b, and c above, and he really did answer all of my questions.

He basically gave me an Olympics 101 rundown about how athletes can qualify for the olympics, how the olympics will change next time around to make the format more realistic, and how athletes can be training to win, even if they’re only really good at one discipline (out of lead, speed, and bouldering).

We also talked about how the US team differs from the dominating teams out there, such as the Japanese women and men. He explained how the US is sort of catching up to those teams now, in terms of financial, moral, physical, and administrative support for our athletes. This is all good news to me, and I was really happy to have someone so knowledgeable explain everything. Hopefully you’ll enjoy it too, even though it’s not the normal nitty gritty training format for the podcast.

Josh Larson Interview Details

  • New funding for US climbers for competitions
  • Comparison of our team vs. the Japanese and other dominant teams
  • How our team could see more podium finishes at World Cups
  • His new position as Head Coach for the USA Adult Team
  • American style boulders/routes vs World Cup style and why it matters
  • Everything you wanted to know about the Olympics (finally!)
  • Training tactics for the Olympics
  • New ways that USA Climbing is now supporting the climbing team

Josh Larson Links 

Training Programs for You

Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta…

climbing training programs

Please Review The Podcast on iTunes

Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.


Coming soon…

TrainingBeta is a site dedicated to training for rock climbing. We provide resources and information about training for routes, bouldering, finger strength, mental training, nutrition for climbers, and everything in between. We offer climbing training programs, a blog, interviews on the TrainingBeta Podcast, personal training for climbing, and nutrition for climbers.

  Click here to subscribe