Project Description

Date: May 29th, 2019

trainingbeta podcast



About Kyle Lindsay

Kyle Lindsay is a 30-year-old climber out of Orem, Utah who recently sent his first handful of 5.13a’s after rethinking his training. He’s been climbing for about 6 years, and had plateaued at 5.11 or 5.12 for a while. In 2017 he made a goal of sending 50 5.12’s outside in a year, which he did, but 5.13 seemed out of reach to him. After listening to episodes of this podcast and reading a lot about training and mindset changes, he changed up how he was spending his time in the gym and outside. He sent his first and second 5.13a in September and October of 2018. He’s now on a rampage with big goals for this year.

Kyle has a full-time job as a sales engineer for a software company and it requires him to travel a lot. We talked about how he juggles his climbing and training passion with his busy work schedule.

I talked to Kyle about what exactly he changed in his training, why he made the changes, and what he’ll do differently in the future. We also talked about his diet and did a little problem solving about why he feels hungry all the time. It was a bit of a mini nutrition session at the end there.

Kyle recently sent another 13a a couple weeks ago, and he’s looking forward to sending more 13a’s and a couple 13b’s this year. You can follow him on Instagram @kzlindsay.

Kyle Lindsay Interview Details

  • How my interview with Paige Claassen helped him believe he could climb 5.13
  • How he manages to climb and train even though he works full-time and travels a lot
  • How intimidation was a barrier to even trying a 5.13
  • What my interview with Steve Bechtel taught him about endurance training
  • How his nutrition helped his climbing
  • Our mini nutrition session troubleshooting his constant hunger
  • Typical training week for him

Kyle Lindsay Links 

Training Programs for You

Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta…

climbing training programs

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Photo by of Kyle on the  crux of Malvado (his first 13a redpoint) in American Fork Canyon, Utah


Coming soon…

TrainingBeta is a site dedicated to training for rock climbing. We provide resources and information about training for routes, bouldering, finger strength, mental training, nutrition for climbers, and everything in between. We offer climbing training programs, a blog, interviews on the TrainingBeta Podcast, personal training for climbing, and nutrition for climbers.

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