Project Description

Marina Inoue on Short-Person Training and Body Image Issues

Date: November 27th, 2019

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About Marina Inoue

Marina Inoue is a 33-year-old climber and tattooer who lives out of her van and travels all over to climb. She’s a friend of mine and when we first met, I remember immediately bonding over how short we both were. That’s why her accomplishments as a climber, having sent 5.13d and V11, are so impressive to me. She’s 5’2″ and has gotten a lot stronger in recent years, so we talk about the specifics of her training and how she stays strong even while living on the road. She also talks about training with Nate Drolet and how some of his drills made her a more dynamic climber. For more details about her training, Marina wrote an article for us: How I Trained for Dark Age V11. 

As a short climber, she struggles with a lot of the things I struggle with, including getting shut down on moves that normal-sized people have no issues with. That can sometimes lead to ego bashings and anger, and she talks about how she stays positive out there, and how she’s sent some routes that were categorically not short person friendly.

Marina is also very open on social media about some issues she has with her body image. Since I can relate with her on that, and I know that many other women can as well, I asked her to talk about those things on this episode. We do a bit of a deep dive on this topic and I really appreciated her willingness to be brutally honest and say things that aren’t normally said publicly. Hopefully this conversation will help others open up and have conversations themselves.

Marina Inoue Interview Details

  • Why she loves living in her van
  • Things she’s most proud of in climbing
  • How she trains to overcome height
  • Getting shut down due to height – how she deals
  • How she navigates ego as a short climber
  • Some of her struggles with body image and weight

Marina Inoue Links 

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Photo Credit

Photo by Matt Pincus @mpincus87 of Marina in Nurse Ratchet V7 in Hueco Tanks

Transcript

Coming soon.

TrainingBeta is a site dedicated to training for rock climbing. We provide resources and information about training for routes, bouldering, finger strength, mental training, nutrition for climbers, and everything in between. We offer climbing training programs, a blog, interviews on the TrainingBeta Podcast, personal training for climbing, and nutrition for climbers.


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