Project Description

Dr. Tyler Nelson on High Volume Power Training

Date: September 30th, 2020

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About Tyler Nelson

Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more.

In this interview, Tyler explains why we should be training power differently in climbing than we typically do. Normally, we’re training power at very high intensities as in the campus board. However, in climbing we need to have sustained power output over long periods of time. So he describes how to gain more true power endurance using specific techniques.

Tyler recently wrote an article on this topic for TrainingBeta, called High Volume Power Training for Climbers, and this interview is a supplement to that article. If you haven’t read it yet, and you’re interested in this topic, I highly recommend that you give it a read before or after listening to this interview.

Tyler Nelson has a lot of qualifications, so I’m going to let his website sum those up for you:

Tyler is a second generation chiropractor whose father was a leader in chiropractic sports medicine for many years. In graduate school he did a dual doctorate and masters degree program in exercise science with an emphasis on tendon loading. He completed his masters degree at BYU and was a physician for the athletics department for 4 years out of school. He currently is the owner of Camp4 Human Performance where he treats clients through his license as a chiropractic physician. He also teaches anatomy and physiology at a local college in Utah and is an instructor for the Performance Climbing Coach seminar series and a certified instructor for gobstrong. When he’s not working he’s climbing or hiking outside with his family.  

You can find Tyler in Salt Lake City at his clinic, Camp 4 Human Performance, where he tests athletes, creates training programs, and treats all kinds of athletes for injuries.

I met Tyler at Steve Bechtel’s first Performance Climbing Coach Seminar in Lander in May of 2017, where we were both instructors. Since then I’ve done 4 more seminars and 6 other podcast episodes with him:

He is well-spoken and a wealth of knowledge about how the human body responds to climbing and training.

Tyler Nelson Interview Details

  • What high volume power training is good for
  • How it can improve your overall power and power endurance
  • Why it’s better for sport climbers than boulderers
  • Why it’s important to stop training when you lose power
  • How this kind of training has helped his athletes
  • What to know about high volume power training and how to use it
  • Why campus boards need to have a way to take weight off

Tyler Nelson Links

Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more.

Training Programs for You

Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone…

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Transcript

Coming soon.




TrainingBeta is a site dedicated to training for rock climbing. We provide resources and information about training for routes, bouldering, finger strength, mental training, nutrition for climbers, and everything in between. We offer climbing training programs, climbing training classes, nutrition classes, regular blog posts, interviews on The TrainingBeta Podcast, personal coaching for climbing, and nutrition for climbers.


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