Project Description

Date: June 28th, 2019

trainingbeta podcast


About Tyler Nelson

Tyler Nelson has a lot of qualifications, so I’m going to let his website sum those up for you:

Tyler is a second generation chiropractor whose father was a leader in chiropractic sports medicine for many years. In graduate school he did a dual doctorate and masters degree program in exercise science with an emphasis on tendon loading. He completed his masters degree at BYU and was a physician for the athletics department for 4 years out of school. He currently is the owner of Camp4 Human Performance where he treats clients through his license as a chiropractic physician. He also teaches anatomy and physiology at a local college in Utah and is an instructor for the Performance Climbing Coach seminar series and a certified instructor for gobstrong. When he’s not working he’s climbing or hiking outside with his family.  

You can find Tyler in Salt Lake City at his clinic, Camp 4 Human Performance, where he tests athletes, creates training programs, and treats all kinds of athletes for injuries.

I met Tyler at Steve Bechtel’s first Performance Climbing Coach Seminar in Lander in May of 2017, where we were both instructors. Since then I’ve done 4 more seminars and 4 other podcast episodes with him:

He is well-spoken and a wealth of knowledge about how the human body responds to climbing and training.

In my 2nd interview with Tyler, he explained how he uses a crane scale to test people’s power output and maximum strength with all kinds of exercises. It’s all about isometric training and testing (pulling on an inanimate object to either gain strength or test your max strength). He wrote 2 articles for us all about that topic:

This time on the podcast, we’re focusing on how to use heavy isometric loading and other uncommon methodologies to heal tendon injuries in climbers. We discuss the most common tendon injuries we get as climbers and what exercises to use to heal them properly. It turns out that light loading, as in most exercises using PT bands, doesn’t usually produce enough stress on the tendon to actually cause it to heal itself. So we have to use heavier loads but with less range of motion so as not to aggravate the injury.

We talk about shoulder, elbow, finger, and a little bit on wrist injuries in this episode, so I hope this helps some of you who are suffering with an injury right now.

Tyler Nelson Interview Details

  • Most common tendon injuries in climbers
  • Terms of tendon injuries
  • How isometric loading can heal tendons
  • Shoulder protocol
  • Elbow protocol
  • Pulley, tendon injuries protocol
  • Flexor tendon info

Climbing Training Seminar with Tyler Nelson

If you’re interested in being a student at one of Steve Bechtel’s upcoming Performance Climbing Coach seminars, there’s one scheduled for October 4-6th, 2019 in Murfreesboro, TN and you can find more info on it here.

Tyler also does his own seminars and classes on all different topics, and you can find info about those on his website:

Tyler Nelson Links

Training Programs for You

Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone…

climbing training programs

Please Review The Podcast on iTunes

Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.


Coming soon…

TrainingBeta is a site dedicated to training for rock climbing. We provide resources and information about training for routes, bouldering, finger strength, mental training, nutrition for climbers, and everything in between. We offer climbing training programs, a blog, interviews on the TrainingBeta Podcast, personal training for climbing, and nutrition for climbers.

  Click here to subscribe