Project Description

The Simplest Finger Training Protocol with Dr. Tyler Nelson

Date: October 2nd, 2019

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About Tyler Nelson

Tyler Nelson has a lot of qualifications, so I’m going to let his website sum those up for you:

Tyler is a second generation chiropractor whose father was a leader in chiropractic sports medicine for many years. In graduate school he did a dual doctorate and masters degree program in exercise science with an emphasis on tendon loading. He completed his masters degree at BYU and was a physician for the athletics department for 4 years out of school. He currently is the owner of Camp4 Human Performance where he treats clients through his license as a chiropractic physician. He also teaches anatomy and physiology at a local college in Utah and is an instructor for the Performance Climbing Coach seminar series and a certified instructor for gobstrong. When he’s not working he’s climbing or hiking outside with his family.  

You can find Tyler in Salt Lake City at his clinic, Camp 4 Human Performance, where he tests athletes, creates training programs, and treats all kinds of athletes for injuries.

I met Tyler at Steve Bechtel’s first Performance Climbing Coach Seminar in Lander in May of 2017, where we were both instructors. Since then I’ve done 4 more seminars and 5 other podcast episodes with him:

He is well-spoken and a wealth of knowledge about how the human body responds to climbing and training.

Tyler recently wrote an article for TrainingBeta called “The Simplest Finger Training Program, and it was one of the most popular articles we’ve ever published, so I figured it warranted a podcast episode! In this interview, we go into more detail about that article. We talk about how to use isometrics for finger strength training in the simplest way possible. Basically you just pull on a hangboard with just your own force – no weights or pulleys required. He describes what protocol to use, depending on what you’re trying to train and how long you’ve been training, among many other things.

Tyler Nelson Interview Details

  • How to increase finger strength without weights
  • Finger protocols laid out
  • When to work these sessions into your schedule
  • Anatomy and physiology of tendons under load
  • Beginner, intermediate, and advanced protocols
  • Tyler’s protocol for himself and what it’s done for him

Training Programs for You

Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone…

climbing training programs

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Coming soon…

TrainingBeta is a site dedicated to training for rock climbing. We provide resources and information about training for routes, bouldering, finger strength, mental training, nutrition for climbers, and everything in between. We offer climbing training programs, a blog, interviews on the TrainingBeta Podcast, personal training for climbing, and nutrition for climbers.

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