Dr. Tyler Nelson on the Role of Stretching for Climbers
Date: June 2nd, 2020
About Tyler Nelson
Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more.
Tyler Nelson has a lot of qualifications, so I’m going to let his website sum those up for you:
Tyler is a second generation chiropractor whose father was a leader in chiropractic sports medicine for many years. In graduate school he did a dual doctorate and masters degree program in exercise science with an emphasis on tendon loading. He completed his masters degree at BYU and was a physician for the athletics department for 4 years out of school. He currently is the owner of Camp4 Human Performance where he treats clients through his license as a chiropractic physician. He also teaches anatomy and physiology at a local college in Utah and is an instructor for the Performance Climbing Coach seminar series and a certified instructor for gobstrong. When he’s not working he’s climbing or hiking outside with his family.
You can find Tyler in Salt Lake City at his clinic, Camp 4 Human Performance, where he tests athletes, creates training programs, and treats all kinds of athletes for injuries.
I met Tyler at Steve Bechtel’s first Performance Climbing Coach Seminar in Lander in May of 2017, where we were both instructors. Since then I’ve done 4 more seminars and 6 other podcast episodes with him:
- TBP 133 :: The Simplest Finger Training Protocol with Dr. Tyler Nelson
- TBP 084: Injury Rehab and Blood Flow Restriction Training
- TBP 098: Isometric Movements to Prime and Test Your Body
- TBP 108: Bood Flow Restriction for Injury Healing and Performance
- TBP 118: Latest Technology for Finger Training and Performance Testing
- TBP 128: Surprising Methods for Healing Tendon Injuries
He is well-spoken and a wealth of knowledge about how the human body responds to climbing and training.
In this interview, Tyler explains how we should be using stretching in our climbing and recovery routines. There are a lot of misconceptions out there about how to stretch, when to stretch, and what type of stretching is appropriate at different times. Tyler clears everything up and explains the physiology and anatomy behind it all.
Tyler Nelson Interview Details
- What stretching does physiologically
- Why we stretch
- Static vs dynamic stretching
- When you use the different types of stretching
- Stretching tendons vs stretching muscles
- Why we shouldn’t stretch between burns
- Stretching and strength training in youth climbers
Tyler Nelson Links
- Personal website: camp4humanperformance.com
- Take an online class with Tyler: camp4humanperformance.com/store
- Instagram: @c4hp
- Facebook: @camp4chiropractic
- Other Podcast Episodes with Tyler
- TBP 133 :: The Simplest Finger Training Protocol with Dr. Tyler Nelson
- TBP 084: Injury Rehab and Blood Flow Restriction Training
- TBP 098: Isometric Movements to Prime and Test Your Body
- TBP 108: Bood Flow Restriction for Injury Healing and Performance
- TBP 118: Latest Technology for Finger Training and Performance Testing
- TBP 128: Surprising Methods for Healing Tendon Injuries
Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more.
Training Programs for You
Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone…
- At-Home Training Program: trainingbeta.com/covid
- Personal Training Online: www.trainingbeta.com/mercedes
- For Boulderers: Bouldering Training Program for boulderers of all abilities
- For Route Climbers: Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities
- Finger Strength : www.trainingbeta.com/fingers
- All of our training programs: Training Programs Page
Please Review The Podcast on iTunes
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.
Transcript
Coming soon.
Hi Neely
Just want to start of by thanking you for your excellent podcasts and website and training/recovery resources. I discovered your podcast about a year ago and I’ve probably listened to virtually all of them now; binging like a mad man! Excellent information, clearly presented, easy to listen to and I always learn something new. Excellent work. Thank you.
This particular podcast was interesting to me as a 40 year old (late starting) climber with “less than excellent” flexibility and I learned a lot from it. However, I would love to know if there is a stretch routine that would be good to do as part of a warm up for bouldering. It seemed that I should do slow, intense isometric holds that use the joints that I want to be “strong and springy”. What would this equate to at the crag?
Also, if I do this at home prior to setting off for the crag (more convenient to set up these moves) how long would the benefits last? Would they be over before I got to the crag? If I have a session at the crag then rest for 20-30min would I benefit from stretching again or would that be unnecessary?
Anyway, like I said, excellent resources and much appreciated. I was bouldering at French 6a when I started listening and now I’m projecting (and close to sending) a 7b/+. Much of that is due to you and your team. Credit to you guys 🙂 Thanks.
Josh
Hi Josh – Thank you very much for the kind words! I really appreciate it, and I’m glad the site has been helpful to you 🙂 I asked Tyler if he had any advice for you, and he told me to refer you to his Instagram account because he’s been putting out some good info on shoulders recently. I found this post for you to start with, but definitely check out his other stuff @c4hp. https://www.instagram.com/p/CAsc-T3DT1I/