Finger Endurance Training Advancements with Dr. Tyler Nelson

Dr. Tyler Nelson owns and operates Camp 4 Human Performance, a sports medicine and strength & conditioning clinic in Salt Lake City. While earning his doctoral degree, he completed a dual program Master’s degree in exercise science at the University Of Missouri. While in graduate school he worked with the University of Missouri athletics department and currently is employed through two colleges in Utah.

He is certified through the National Strength and Conditioning Association as a Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist and spends any extra time in his life with his wife and 4 kids or trad climbing or bouldering.

You can find Tyler in Salt Lake City at his clinic or online at Camp 4 Human Performance, where he tests athletes, creates training programs, and treats all kinds of athletes for injuries.

In this episode, Tyler talks about some advancements in training finger endurance that he’s discovered with his patients and in the research. He describes in detail how we can be more efficient with our finger training to get the most out of our sessions.

More Details

• Continuation of our last episode on finger endurance
• Difference between passive and active grip in finger training
• What a protocol using this new info looks like
• Research backing it up
• His thoughts on the no-hang protocol
• Why he sees pulley cysts all the time in his injured patients

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Tyler was kind enough to provide us with 5 videos from his upcoming course on Upper Extremity Testing for the TrainingBeta Patreon page. In these videos, he clearly demonstrates how to do these 5 tests on your fingers using a Tindeq:

1. 5-second Hang
2. Aerobic Capacity
3. Anaerobic Capacity
4. Anaerobic Power
5. Finger Max Curl Test

Watch those videos and all the other podcast bonuses by signing up for a free 7-day trial on Patreon.