Dr. Tyler Nelson’s New Injury Prevention Protocol

In this episode, Tyler explains how we should be warming up our youth teams (and ourselves) in order to make climbing sessions more effective, and more importantly, for injury prevention.

Once again, Tyler pored over the research and came up with a very progressive way of doing things – much differently than what we’re used to. Gone are the days of just warming up for climbing by doing some easy climbing: there’s actually a better way.

Tyler Nelson has a lot of qualifications, so I’m going to let his website sum those up for you:

Tyler is a second generation chiropractor whose father was a leader in chiropractic sports medicine for many years. In graduate school he did a dual doctorate and masters degree program in exercise science with an emphasis on tendon loading. He completed his masters degree at BYU and was a physician for the athletics department for 4 years out of school. He currently is the owner of Camp4 Human Performance where he treats clients through his license as a chiropractic physician. He also is an instructor for the Performance Climbing Coach seminar series and a certified instructor for gobstrong. When he’s not working he’s climbing or hiking outside with his family.  

You can find Tyler in Salt Lake City at his clinic, Camp 4 Human Performance, where he tests athletes, creates training programs, and treats all kinds of athletes for injuries.

Tyler’s ability to question what we take for granted and provide relevant research is unparalleled, and I was psyched to hear about this new way of doing things. He is well-spoken and a wealth of knowledge about how the human body responds to climbing and training.

Other Episodes with Tyler

• TBP 168: New Insights on Finger Training
• TBP 162: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Endurance Training for Fingers
• TBP 155: Dr. Tyler Nelson on High Volume Power Training
• TBP 149: The Different Roles of Stretching for Climbing
• TBP 133: The Simplest Finger Training Protocol with Dr. Tyler Nelson
• TBP 084: Injury Rehab and Blood Flow Restriction Training
• TBP 098: Isometric Movements to Prime and Test Your Body
• TBP 108: Bood Flow Restriction for Injury Healing and Performance
• TBP 118: Latest Technology for Finger Training and Performance Testing
• TBP 128: Surprising Methods for Healing Tendon Injuries

Tyler Nelson Interview Details

• Why just climbing easy stuff isn’t the most effective way to warm up
• How to warm up instead using a series of exercises to prep your whole body to try hard
• How this way of warming up is good for injury prevention for climbers
• The youth teams he’s tested this on have all had great results
• How to incorporate it into team practice or your own climbing

Tyler Nelson Links

• Personal website: camp4humanperformance.com
• Take an online class with Tyler: camp4humanperformance.com/store
• Do a consultation with Tyler
• Instagram: @c4hp
• Facebook: @camp4chiropractic

Training Programs for You

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• At-Home Training Program: trainingbeta.com/covid
• Personal Training Online:  www.trainingbeta.com/coaching
• For Boulderers: Bouldering Training Program for boulderers of all abilities
• For Route Climbers: Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities
• Finger Strength : www.trainingbeta.com/fingers
• All of our training programs: Training Programs Page

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