Alex Johnson is no stranger to hard climbing.  However, just like the rest of us she has to work hard and train hard.  This year she is working towards her goals of sending The Swarm V14 in Bishop and a 5.14.  One of the staples of her training is workouts on a systems board.  As you’ll see in this video by The RV Project, systems training is a great way to target individual weaknesses, iron out imbalances, and train for specific goals.

In the video, Alex takes you step by step through her own training on the systems board and also gives you some general tips about systems training to ensure you are doing it correctly.  Check it out bellow.

Here is AJ’s systems workout taken from her website:

Systems Workout:

All workouts can be tweaked to be harder or easier, and change out holds for more diverse training!

Crimp Ladder (explained in video).

Crimp Ladder holding lock-off: (explained in video).

Hover above hold for 3 seconds. Alternate starting hands, six sets.

Gaston Typewriters (explained in video).

Set feet to stay in place.  Both hands on opposing gastons.  Push into shoulder move, hold gaston lock off, take other hand off, touch hip, grab other gaston and press into other side.  Repeat 6 reps, 6 sets.

Crimp bumps:

Pull on lowest crimps.  Bump one hand up to highest reached crimp.  Keep feet on and core engaged.  Bump back down.  Alternate, six sets.

Double bumps.

Set feet to stay in place.  Pull on both hands on slopers.  Bump both hands simultaneously to next slopers.  Bump back down to start slopers. Repeat for 45 seconds.

Pinch “up-downs.” (Can also be done on slopers and crimps!)

Start both hands on evenly spaced pinches in same row.  Grab next highest pinch with right hand.  Bring left hand up to pinch in same row.  Move right hand back down to start pinch, left hand follows, right hand back up again.  Repeat for 45 seconds, 6 sets.

Click through bellow for the video and to check out the rest of Alex’s website.  Give these workouts a shot.  They just might help you up your next project.

Click Here: Systems Training with Alex Johnson

(photo courtesy of Alex Johnson)

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