Matt Pincus on the Principles of Projecting
Date: October 17th, 2019
About Matt Pincus
Matt Pincus is a good friend of mine and he’s my right hand man at TrainingBeta. He manages and writes the blog, he manages our Facebook presence, and he’s our in-house Online Climbing Trainer. In this interview Matt talks about some key tenets of projecting routes or boulders and how you can incorporate them into your own climbing ASAP.
Matt is a boulderer and a sport climber based out of Jackson, Wyoming, and often lives in his van on the road. He’s climbed up to 5.14a and V12 and is constantly changing and tweaking the ways he trains as he learns new things. Because of his success with his own training and climbing, he began training others and studying the craft more intently. Matt’s ability to listen to people’s needs, his attention to detail, and his keen interest in all things training contribute to his ability to create effective training plans for his clients.
I wanted to talk with him about a popular article he wrote on TrainingBeta called “Projecting Principles” because learning how to project effectively can be the difference between sending and not sending. It doesn’t matter how strong you get in the gym: if you go outside and try something at your limit but don’t know how to effectively project it, you’re probably not going to do the thing, or it’s going to take you longer than you want.
Matt and I have hosted a couple clinics at the International Climbers’ Festival about projecting, so this is a conversation about the tools we successfully use in our own climbing (which is mostly projecting hard-for-us climbs) and the things we notice that our clients and clinic attendees are falling short on.
We talk about things like how to know if something is too hard for you, how many times to try a route or boulder before giving up, tactics like clipping up to work moves out, memorizing and honing beta, and crag etiquette for how long your goes should be. Plus a bunch of other topics.
If you’re interested in training with Matt after listening to this interview, you can sign up to work with him (from anywhere in the world) at www.trainingbeta.com/matt.
Matt Pincus Interview Details
- What is a project?
- Who should be projecting?
- How hard should a project be? What’s too hard?
- How long should you project something?
- Learning and growth that can happen from projecting
- What a sending pyramid is and why it’s important
- First attempts are fro beta sussing
- Bouldering tactics
- How to plan your day around a project
- How long your goes should be on a project
- Eating for success
- How to save energy for the project
- The importance of links
- Goal setting
Matt Pincus Interview Links
- Train with Matt: www.trainingbeta.com/matt
- Matt’s Instagram: @mpincus87
- TrainingBeta Facebook (Matt manages it): @trainingbeta
- Matt’s companion article: Projecting Principles
- All of Matt’s articles on TrainingBeta
- Dan Mirsky’s article on projecting: “The Projecting Process“
- Danny Robertson’s article on training on a project: “How I Train for Limit Sport Climbs“
Training Programs for You
Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone…
- Personal Training Online: www.trainingbeta.com/matt
- For Boulderers: Bouldering Training Program for boulderers of all abilities
- For Route Climbers: Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities
- Finger Strength : www.trainingbeta.com/fingers
- All of our training programs: Training Programs Page
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Photo by @jonathansiegrist of Matt Pincus projecting Simply Read, 5.13d in Rifle, CO