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What is a finger pulley, you might be asking yourself? You’ve probably heard of the A2 pulley because it’s kind of a common and very dreaded spot that climbers can injure.
“If you’ve ever wondered what makes those fingers wiggle, it’s not tiny little muscles within each finger. Actually, there is a network of tendons, ligaments, and sheaths in each finger that help big muscles in your forearms do such precise work. The tendons on the palm side of your hand help you to make a fist. As they run up to the tip of your fingers, they pass under sheaths that help to hold them in place. These sheaths are called pulleys because they help to improve the muscle’s mechanical advantage, producing a large enough force to hold onto that granite slab.” -Kristen DeStefano, PT, DPT
This article from cruxcrush.com, written by Kristen DeStefano, talks all about the A2 pulley- what exactly it is, where it is, and what it does. Kristen talks about how a finger injury like this can occur (which hopefully never happens to you!). She shares some warning signs that may indicate an injury and give suggestions for what to do to get it diagnosed.
She also discusses what to do to prevent an A2 injury- pay especially close attention to this part because it involves how you train!
“Athletes tend to succumb to injury when they are pushing themselves to their limit during every training session. A hand pulley is not directly connected to muscle, so having strong finger flexors doesn’t mean you’re totally in the clear. Adding a little variety to your training routine can help prevent pesky injuries that keep you off the wall.“
Kristen follows this with 7 specific tips for preventing an A2 pulley strain while training.
Give this a read and learn how you can take some simple steps to help prevent a finger injury!
CLICK HERE: Climber Problems: The A2 Pulley Strain
(photo courtesy of cruxcrush.com)