Top 5 Strength Training Articles
Strength is the basis of hard rock climbing. If you aren't strong enough for a climb, no amount of endurance is going to get you to the chains. Now, when it comes to rock climbing, we all know that finger [...]
Climbing Magazine – Effective System Board Training
Chances are you've all seen a system board before. It's the mirrored training wall sitting in the corner of your gym collecting dust. However, despite the fact that these boards aren't used all that often, when utilized properly they can [...]
Rock and Ice: Campus-Board Fundamentals
When used properly, the campus-board is one the best tools we have available for developing climbing specific power. However, campus-boards are also the training tool that is most commonly used incorrectly. If you are going to campus, taking the time [...]
Evening Sends – 5 Minute Fingers
Here at TrainingBeta, we get asked a lot, "What's the best hangboard workout?" Our answer, though, probably isn't what most people are looking for. Sure, different hangboard protocols have different benefits and drawbacks, but, ultimately, the "best hangboard workout" is the [...]
Bouldering Training: Free Volume Workout
A new trend in training for bouldering is to put all the focus on doing the hardest possible moves. While limit bouldering sessions are certainly important for building power, they do not allow you to do a larger volume of [...]
Jonathan Siegrist – How Bouldering Has Helped his Sport Climbing
In climbing, most of us have our preferred style whether its sport climbing, trad climbing, or bouldering. Many climbers even end up specializing and climbing within one of these disciplines almost exclusively. Obviously, there is nothing wrong with this kind [...]