The Way of the Iron Fist- Forearm Training
Have you ever considered using rice in your training program? Kinda weird sounding right? As it turns out, using a rice bucket is actually a really handy, simple tool for strengthening your forearms and fingers, and can be a great warm-up routine to get into before hangboarding (or climbing). This article [...]
Shoe Review: Tenaya Oasi
Shoe review - Tenaya Oasi Written by Dave Sheldon $165 Trango.com or Amazon.com The Spanish climbing shoe brand Tenaya hit the U.S. shores two years ago and quickly carved out a piece of the shoe market pie. Their immediate popularity can be attributed to a number of unique design and fit [...]
Hangboard Training Timing
(photo courtesy of mountainproject.com) If you've ever been training on the hangboard and wished you had a better system for timing yourself than a simple stopwatch, this could be the solution for you. Josh Janes wrote this great forum post on Mountain Project (mountainproject.com) about the app Seconds Pro and how [...]
Foods That Strengthen Your Tendons and Ligaments- ClimbHealthy
"Muscles tend to hog the spotlight when it comes to recovery and sports nutrition, but if you’ve ever injured a finger, then you know that your muscles are pretty useless without your tendons and ligaments. Tendons are thick bundles of collagen that connect muscle to bone and allow movement, while [...]
Jstar’s Training Playlist
(Photo: Screenshot from Andy Mann's video "Great Days 2: Jonathan Siegrist's Spectrum") Alright, here's the second installment of our pro's playlists. This one is brought to you by Jonathan Siegrist and he's an electronic music fanatic. For real though I think he might have a bit of a problem. When [...]
Review: The Rock Climber’s Training Manual
The Rock Climber’s Training Manual – A Guide to Continuous Improvement By Michael and Mark Anderson $28.95 on Amazon This book review was written by Dave Sheldon, a frequent contributor to popular climbing magazines and TrainingBeta. Enter Dave... The Rock Climber’s Training Manual – A Guide to Continuous Improvement is a [...]
Power Endurance Program Q&A
We recently received this email from a person who'd bought Kris Peters' 6-Week Power Endurance Training Program. He asked a bunch of common questions, and after talking with Kris about this, we wrote out our answers for all to see. I hope this is helpful if you're on the fence about [...]
The Campus Board- Metolius
Metolius has a really cool, informative brochure about the campus board on their website, metoliusclimbing.com. It talks a little bit about the history of the campus board- the first one was installed in 1988 by the late Wolfgang Gullich. His intent behind designing the campus board was to build his [...]
New Rock Climbing Nutrition eBook
NOTE FROM NEELY: While it was my intention to get a rock climbing nutrition ebook out for you this year, I just don't think it's going to happen - life's too crazy right now! But I have good news. Aicacia Young, a friend of ours and a like-minded nutrition expert, [...]
What’s His Secret? -Sonnie Trotter
(photo courtesy of sonnietrotter.com) Sonnie Trotter is one of the world's most accomplished climbers. He was the first Canadian to win a US National and to climb 5.14c and 5.14d. He also has the first ascent of the Cobra Crack (to date one of the hardest crack routes in the world). Sonnie [...]