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TrainingBeta Blog2024-08-06T13:47:12-06:00

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Foods That Strengthen Your Tendons and Ligaments- ClimbHealthy

"Muscles tend to hog the spotlight when it comes to recovery and sports nutrition, but if you’ve ever injured a finger, then you know that your muscles are pretty useless without your tendons and ligaments. Tendons are thick bundles of collagen that connect muscle to bone and allow movement, while [...]

August 2nd, 2014|

Jstar’s Training Playlist

(Photo: Screenshot from Andy Mann's video "Great Days 2: Jonathan Siegrist's Spectrum") Alright, here's the second installment of our pro's playlists. This one is brought to you by Jonathan Siegrist and he's an electronic music fanatic. For real though I think he might have a bit of a problem. When [...]

August 1st, 2014|

Review: The Rock Climber’s Training Manual

The Rock Climber’s Training Manual – A Guide to Continuous Improvement By Michael and Mark Anderson $28.95 on Amazon This book review was written by Dave Sheldon, a frequent contributor to popular climbing magazines and TrainingBeta. Enter Dave... The Rock Climber’s Training Manual – A Guide to Continuous Improvement is a [...]

July 30th, 2014|

Power Endurance Program Q&A

We recently received this email from a person who'd bought Kris Peters' 6-Week Power Endurance Training Program. He asked a bunch of common questions, and after talking with Kris about this, we wrote out our answers for all to see. I hope this is helpful if you're on the fence about [...]

July 29th, 2014|

The Campus Board- Metolius

Metolius has a really cool, informative brochure about the campus board on their website, metoliusclimbing.com. It talks a little bit about the history of the campus board- the first one was installed in 1988 by the late Wolfgang Gullich. His intent behind designing the campus board was to build his [...]

July 27th, 2014|

New Rock Climbing Nutrition eBook

NOTE FROM NEELY: While it was my intention to get a rock climbing nutrition ebook out for you this year, I just don't think it's going to happen - life's too crazy right now! But I have good news. Aicacia Young, a friend of ours and a like-minded nutrition expert, [...]

July 26th, 2014|

What’s His Secret? -Sonnie Trotter

(photo courtesy of sonnietrotter.com) Sonnie Trotter is one of the world's most accomplished climbers. He was the first Canadian to win a US National and to climb 5.14c and 5.14d. He also has the first ascent of the Cobra Crack (to date one of the hardest crack routes in the world). Sonnie [...]

July 26th, 2014|

Recovery

This article was written by Kris Hampton and reposted from his site powercompanyclimbing.com. Kris Hampton is our friend and author of our 8-week Endurance Training Program (have you tried it out? It’s great if you’re looking to send longer routes!). Kris talks about recovering while climbing, and gives training exercises to do to work on it. As [...]

July 25th, 2014|

Fingerboard Training Plan- Moonclimbing

(photo courtesy of moonclimbing.com) Do you have a Moon Fingerboard? Need a workout plan for how to use it? Here is an article from moonclimbing.com with just that. This Moon Fingerboard Training Plan Workout lasts about an hour and a half (with options to modify if you have less time to work [...]

July 23rd, 2014|

Sessions For Any Gym- ClimbStrong

"One of the biggest barriers to effective progress as a rock climber, ironically, can be training in a commercial climbing gym. Oh, sure, there are good gyms around, but they're rare and many lack certain very useful things. These things can range from lacking a good hangboard, to limited hours, [...]

July 22nd, 2014|
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