Transcript Highlight: Steve Bechtel on Periodization
If you look at the training plans written by any of the top climbing trainers, they often look completely different and contain a lot of different exercises. However, they also have one thing in common. They are all organized around at least some strategy of periodization. While this may make [...]
Top 5 Nutrition Articles
As climbers looking to maximize our performance, we have a complex relationship with food and nutrition. We want to fully fuel our climbing and give our bodies everything it needs to recover and get ready for our next climbing training session. We are looking to constantly be able to train [...]
Power Training with the Chest-Bump Pull-Up
Let's face it. Whether it's because of fatigue or worn skin, our fingers often give out long before our muscles. However, while tired and worn out fingers may mean you are done climbing for the day, it doesn't necessarily mean you need to stop training. This is where you can [...]
Warming Up for a Hangboard Session
One of the features of hangboards that make them such a valuable training tool is how convenient they make getting a quality workout in. Once you've mounted a fingerboard in your home, you can effectively train finger strength without having to make the trek to a climbing gym. While this convenience is [...]
Neil Gresham on Cardio for Climbing
Should running be a part of your climbing training? This question about cardio training has been hotly debated topic and you can get wildly different answers depending on who you ask. However, as with most things related to training, there isn't necessarily a one-size-fits-all answer for all climbers. The answer [...]
Top 5 Hangboarding Articles
If there is one thing that all climbers should be consistently training it's finger strength. Like it or not, having strong fingers is important for all hard climbing and the single best way to train finger strength for climbing is on a hangboard. Unfortunately, while we all agree on the [...]
Will Anglin – RULES
Rule #1: When Will Anglin lays down knowledge, listen! Today, we have an article from Will Anglin of Tension Climbing in which he lays out 7 rules of training. However, these rules aren't about what exercises to do or anything like that. They are all about separating training, practice, and [...]
6-Week Power Endurance Program Sneak Peek
All climbers need a certain amount of power endurance. Without good power endurance, you will find yourself in the situation of being able to do all the moves on your projects, but failing because you are unable to link them in a single continuous effort. It is because of failing [...]
Jonathan Siegrist on Skin Care
Today we are going to try something a little different. Here at TrainingBeta, we've been talking about how the podcasts are full of so much valuable information from some of the top climbers, trainers, and coaches out there. We know that it can be hard to find the time to [...]
The Project Magazine – Malcolm Smith Interview
Training for climbing may seem like the hot new thing right now. However, while training may be more popular than ever, there have been people systematically training with incredible amounts of discipline for decades. While they didn't have the beautiful new training facilities we have now, it definitely didn't prevent [...]