We all want to improve at climbing, get strong, and send more. That’s probably why you came to this site in the first place. In an effort to improve, it can be really temping to simply try to train more and train harder. However, this approach of increasing both the volume and intensity of one’s training can quickly lead to overtraining as rest and recovery are neglected.
Neil Gresham wrote an article for Rock and Ice that councils against this tendency for overtraining by pointing out that the training volume top pros like Adam Ondra are capable of withstanding is not appropriate for most climbers.
“Be careful. It’s tempting when we hear about Ondra to think that we’re not training enough, and to jack up the volume. Fact is, few people can cope with his absurd workload, and resting can do more good than adding to your training—a tenet that can be particularly frustrating for climbers with limited spare time.” – Neil Gresham
To help you plan your training better while still ensuring you are getting enough rest, Gresham provides basic guidelines for how much rest is required for training endurance, power endurance, and strength. While his recommendations on how much/how often to train are generalizations, keeping them in mind will definitely help you ensure you are achieving quality training and avoid falling into the overtraining trap. Click through bellow to see the whole article.
Also, if you are looking for more help structuring you training, check out our Training Programs. They are designed to provide you, regardless of your ability,with a structured schedule to help you improve by training both safely and efficiently.
Click Here: Avoiding Overtraining – Only Ondra Should Train Like Ondra
(photo by Claudia Ziegler; courtesy of rockandice.com)
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