Here’s an old video of Adam Ondra working what became his route Move 9B/+ in Flatanger, Norway.  While watching Adam climb this amount of insanely difficult overhanging granite is impressive enough in it’s own right, that’s not the only reason we are posting it.  If you listen closely to Adam describing the crux of the route, he talks about not knowing how to have enough explosive power to climb the “bouldery 9a” section after having already climbed the “pumpy 9a” half of the route.  He even somewhat jokingly says that he thinks the only way to get better for this route is to “make some one-arm dead hang swings.”

For us here at Training Beta, this statement is extremely interesting and not only because Adam is talking about climbing two 9a’s back to back.  We thought it was interesting to hear how even one of the world’s best climbers can be confused about how to train for a specific route or type of power.  Now, obviously as the video tells you, Adam didn’t stay confused for long as he sent only a week later.  However, we want to hear about times you didn’t know how to train for a specific route or boulder and what you did to figure it out.  Let us know on Facebook.

Watch the video bellow for some seriously inspiring footage of Adam working on Move or click through to listen to Adam’s Training Beta Podcast for a more in depth discussion of how Adam trains.

TrainingBeta is a site dedicated to training for rock climbing. We provide resources and information about training for routes, bouldering, finger strength, mental training, nutrition for climbers, and everything in between. We offer climbing training programs, a blog, interviews on the TrainingBeta Podcast, personal training for climbing, and nutrition for climbers.

  Click here to subscribe