This past August and September, Adam Ondra did something that no one else has ever done in the same year; he won both the Lead and Bouldering World Championship competitions. Incredible.
One of the reasons this double victory is so incredible and rare is that bouldering and sport climbing are becoming different, specialized activities. Enough so that your body type and how you train can matter in your level of success.
This article eveningsends.com recently posted includes an interview with Adam Ondra about what his training regimen was like to get him ready to dominate the competition scene…
“….I was just very curious about the training itself. I was also hoping the training would help me with climbing outdoors…
….Starting in February, I spent 3.5 months of training really hard, which consisted of climbing in the gym 6 or 7 days a week, with occasional cragging on the weekends—though I was too tired to perform well.
During these periods, I would spend up to 30 hours per week training: climbing, campusing, TRX. If you add it all up, that might mean I spent 420 hours of really hardcore training this year.”
420 hours of hardcore training?! Whoa…
“For a long time, I thought I could gain better power-endurance simply by climbing a lot of routes. But it didn’t really work. I was getting better, but there seemed to be some kind of barrier that I could never overcome. No matter how hard I trained, I couldn’t hang on any longer on the wall.
I began to understand that if I increased my power, I could make the moves feel easier and I could rest better on the route because all the holds felt bigger. This is why my training for lead included a lot of explosive campusing and bouldering—because I knew I needed it.”
-Adam Ondra
Proof that training works.
Check out the full article to learn more from Adam Ondra about how his training led to success and what his year of outdoor climbing was like during all of this training…..
CLICK HERE: Adam Ondra Turns Pain to Joy
(photo courtesy of eveningsends.com)
