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For those of you who don’t know, Action Directe is a route famous for being recognized as the world’s first 9a (5.14d), located in the Frankenjura, Germany. In fact, Wolfgang Güllich invented the campus board with training for this route in mind.
Speaking of training for Action Directe….in this Vimeo video, climber Luzan Matyas is doing just that. He has set up a full scale replica of the boulder problems on Action Directe. Three different crux simulators including practicing one of the clips. And some of the most crucial holds were reconstructed out of wood to precisely mimic the glossy texture and geometry of the holds actually on the route itself. That’s dedication to a project!
Some of the pocket moves using monos look insane! Check it out…
WATCH ABOVE or CLICK HERE TO VIEW THE ORIGINAL: Training For Action Direct Video
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