Over the past year we have been following Luzan Matyas’ quest to train for and climb the world famous route Action Directe 5.14d/9a. So far we have posted videos of Luzan training individual sections of the route on replicas and a video of Luzan’s simulation hangboard routine.
Well, in the time that has past since these last videos, Luzan has been busy training away and steadily making gains towards his goal. To continue making his training as specific as possible, Luzan has set a complete replica of Action Directe in one piece. Not only has Luzan managed to completely replicate the route complete with carefully shaped holds (heinous pockets) but he has also managed to send!
“At the One Move Climbing Gym the Action Directe 9a replica is finally set in one whole piece! (unlike the 3 part version from 2014-2015)
Also, after taking it easy by the end of the year I now felt totally refreshed and gave the route a good session, and surprisingly it wasn’t long until I linked the whole deal.
Due to the board height, after the startjump into the 2-finger pocket I simply campus back to the bottom where the route continues from an identical hold all the way to the top.
REALLY looking forward for the first spring sunshine in the Frankenjura!” – Luzan Matyas
Take a look at the video bellow for some serious training inspiration. Also, remember that while we all aren’t training to send Action Directe, we can all learn from Luzan’s dedication and realize that by setting specific goals and doing everything required to achieve them we can all raise our climbing level whether you are trying to reach 5.14d or are trying to climbing your first 5.12. Keep training hard and with a purpose.
Luzan, we wish you all the luck this spring in the Frankenjura!