As rock climbing continues to grow in popularity, one of the best features of this growth is increased opportunities for youth climbers. Climbing is an amazing sport for developing both physical and mental skills that have positive effects on youth’s lives beyond the sport.
However, while there are lots of upsides to youths getting involved in the sport, the emphasis placed on high performance and competition has resulted in a dramatic increase in fractures of the growth plates in young climbers’ fingers.
To inform parents and youth coaches about this issue and how to manage this risk, here’s an article by climbing author and coach Eric Hörst in which he describes how these fractures present, outlines how youth climbers should be monitored, and shares coaching strategies for helping young climbers avoid growth plate fractures all together.
“As with any rigorous sport, however, rock climbing presents some physical risks. While the indoor climbing activities that most youths participate in are extraordinarily safe (given proper instruction and adult supervision), there is a growing incidence of epiphyseal fractures (injury to the growth plate in the finger) among adolescents. The increasing focus on hard bouldering, competition climbing, and year-round training has contributed to an alarming increase in growth plate fractures both in the United States and Europe. My colleague, Dr. Volker Schöffl, has been studying climbing injuries for 20 years and he’s documented a 600 percent increase in epiphyseal fractures over the past decade.” – Eric Hörst
Eric Hörst’s tips for Reducing the Risk of Growth Plate Fractures:
Coaching youth climbers is definitely a complex topic. However, as Hörst emphasizes in his article, the underlying rule is to prioritize safety and avoiding injury over quick gains. Here’s a quick summary of Hörst tips for helping youth athletes avoid growth plate fractures:
- Track a climber’s height and weight from age 9 to 16 to identify the period of highest growth velocity
- Coach a comprehensive approach to improving climbing performance, with strong emphasis on technique and mental skill development
- Favor generalized training with young climbers
- Avoid high impact forms of campusing and hangboard training
- Control amount of time spent limit bouldering
- Instruct on minimal use of the crimp grip
- Ensure youth climbers have an offseason
Click through below to learn more about the risk of growth plate fractures and to read about all of these guidelines in greater detail. While it is important for athletes of any age to proactively try and avoid injury, it is especially important for younger athletes. This article is a must read for parents and anyone involved in coaching youth athletes.
Full Article: Eric Hörst: Reducing Risk of Growth Plate Fractures in Youth Climbers
(photo courtesy of trainingforclimbing.com)
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